coolant questions?

[Boss&Sons LLC]

So I did a bit of looking and selected Hocut 795 for a coolant.
I was wondering what coolant other people are using?
Also if you are using tap water or deionized water?

[Sp-4renegade]

For 22 years I have used MOBILMET S-126 and tap water. Just what I use, not saying its good or bad. It worked really good in the CNC lathe, the manual machines seemed to go bad, since I dont always use coolant. On my manual mill I sealed the tank almost air tight now that seems to last longer. My Tormach I am using a plastic sealed tank and that is doing even better.

[Steve Seebold]

I use Blazocut 2000 Universal in my PCNC1100 with water from the garden hose. I have been using Blazer products for about 15 years, and I have never had a problem with any of their stuff.

One thing I did was to add a aerator from a fish tank to keep the coolant moving at night when the machine is not running.

Next I need to add a tramp oil skimmer. The coolant in the tank is getting pretty scummy.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

I use KoolMist 77 with tap water. I've been using it for a year now, just topping off as needed, and there is no odor, no scum, nothing at all nasty. Skim off any oil every few weeks, top off as needed, and it's always good as new.

Regards,
Ray L.

[MichaelHenry]

I use Hangsterfer S500 with DI water (from work) for dilution. No mold, biological growth or nasty odors, there is very little rust (just a dull gun-metal patina) and it does a nice job with aluminum and acrylic.

The one downside is floating tramp oil, presumably the Vactra #2 way oil that I've used for years on my machines. I have some Hangsterfer way oil and will try that soon to see if the tramp oil situation improves.

Mike

[tbaker2500]

Because there are some very real health concerns with various coolants, I experimented using straight tap water. That's it, just water. Been extremely happy with the results. I cut 6061 all day long, and had fantastic results. Yes, it will rust stuff. I wipe down the machine bed and spray it with a bit of silicone. Stops rust dead. Interestingly, I still had to wipe down the bed and spray it when using coolant, as it would separate from the water anyway.

[kevinro]

I have been using the Premier 600 Synthetic Coolant that Tormach sells, mostly because I bought it with the mill. Having said that, it seems to be working just fine for me.

[jakemestre]

I work for an industrial supplier that distributes Master Chemical products. After training from Master I've learned that De-ionized water is usually best for good emulsification of coolant and water. Hard water does not allow for the emulsifiers to do their job correctly. Even reverse osmosis or purified water are great.
I've personally been using the 585XT blend by Master Chemical with great success on all metals including Inconel and Titanium. The only downside is that during the series 2 Tormach was painting their machines with some pretty crappy paint and the 585xt has eaten anything that it's come in contact with. Any good coolant will eat most paint with the exception of epoxy based.
I'm not really sure if it's been discussed before but the purpose of coolant is primarily to clear chips. The secondary purpose is lubrication of the cutting edge and afterwards comes cooling. Re-cutting chips is probably the most detrimental factor in tool life. Especially in work hardening materials such as stainless or Inconel. If you can't flood, and I mean dishwasher flood to clear chips on these types of alloys the use a cold air blast.
I hope this helps a bit.
(p.s. I would highly recommend against straight water. It get's into places you can't clean and will destroy your machine.)

[tbaker2500]

(p.s. I would highly recommend against straight water. It get's into places you can't clean and will destroy your machine.)

Now, I'm interested in this. I DO want to know if I'm hurting my machine with straight water. But the 1100 isn't that complex a piece of hardware. I've been carefully examining every single area I can find, to see if something is rusting out. Under the bed, under way guides, inside any any nook and cranny. The only place I've found is rust under the vise, where I can't dry if off. However, I've found that application of a dielectric grease (very sticky, sheds water) under the vise solves this issue. After a work day, I simply dry off the bed and give it a light spray of silicone. No rust at all. I am curious to know what part of my machine, specifically, I am hurting?

(I also find it interesting the lack of discussion about the health issues surrounding the use of these chemicals. Don't hurt the machine, but it's okay to hurt the operator?)

[thefu]

i use QUALICHEM- Xtreme-Cut 250C I love this coolant, I also use RO/DI and keep it around 7%. I also purchase my coolant from Metal Fluids

[dirtridn2010]

Hi Guys,
I use Premier 600 synthetic. I ordered it with the machine.
I measure out tap water and add the coolant.
I like the fact that it is clear.
I dislike that fact that it stains the Aluminium surfaces after machining (don't know why).
The stain is light translucent tan. I haven't identified at what stage the staining happens.
Has anyone else come across this situation?
it is interesting that in the Tormach literature (and they sell it for their machine) that it is suitable for Ali. And yet when you read the label on the container, it says not suitable for Aluminium....Um???

Peter

[nitewatchman]

I have the same experience withthe P600 Coolant staining Al.

In some cases, the staining occurs in the machining operation. For example I have noticed it in the bottom of pockets if the coolant is allowed to pool there for an hour or so while sonething else is being cut.