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Hows that work then? normally a edge finder is connected electronically to the BOB,don't see any wiring to the standard DTI that you can buy cheap or expensive depending how accurate you want it.
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Here's some pictures of an edge finder and a tool set block I have been using fot the last 10 years or so. They're expensive, but it makes set up go a lot faster.
Last edited by Steve Seebold; 05-02-2012 at 09:27 PM.
You can buy good parts or you can buy cheap parts, but you can't buy good cheap parts.
Hows that work then? normally a edge finder is connected electronically to the BOB,don't see any wiring to the standard DTI that you can buy cheap or expensive depending how accurate you want it.
There's no mechanical ot electrical connection on either one of them. In your offset page, you just dial the edge finder to zero and press touch on you X, then repeat the procedure for the Y axis and you're done.
For the set block, you turn on a 1.0000 inch offset correction and run tool down till the indicator gets to zero and press touch on the appropriate tool number and your done. With this block, I can set 6 tools in 3 minutes or less.
You can buy good parts or you can buy cheap parts, but you can't buy good cheap parts.
How does that edge finder work? Does it deflect in 2 axis? Is it true to the spindle center?
I use the Tormach TTS dial indicator all the time for finding the top of the work surface as Tool 1, and it's beautiful.
The 3D-Tasters are very cool. You put the ball against the edge you want to zero (X, Y or Z) and move that axis. When the needle points to zero, hit zero in Mach and go to the next axis. Very much a luxury over a standard edge finder with the subtracting and adding diameters, but one I find highly useful. The only irritation about mine (an eBay special) is the 20mm shank which required me to make an adapter.
Are they more accurate? I find that my mechanical edge finder or "electronic" (light up) one are only good to maybe 2 thou.
This Taster will get me within about .0004. If I have to be any closer than that, I don't want the job.
I can also use it to pick up the center of a hole. Like I said, I have used it for about 10 years, and it does make set up easier and faster.
You can buy good parts or you can buy cheap parts, but you can't buy good cheap parts.
Well yeah,but....what if someone wants one on here would like one,I mean you're not exactly giving any information were to purchase or buy from.Like I said, I have used it for about 10 years, and it does make set up easier and faster.
Not that I'm interested meself like as I'd go for BOB orientated one.
I find my Starrett 827B mechanical edgefinder good to ~0.0005". The trick is to look down the axis of travel so when the edgefinder “kicks out” upon contact you see the contact event with maximum effect. i.e. the "kick out" is perpendicular to one's line of sight.Originally Posted by tbaker2500
Also I don’t know how one uses a 3D Taser with the ball end to easily find the Z-axis datum of say a roll pin or tooling ball datum marker. I use a TDI tool with an elephant foot for finding the Z-axis datum on often measured parts that are fixured at an angle using a roll pin or special tooling ball. All of my tool heights are measured offline on a surface plate and entered in the tool table. Then I only have to measure a single Z-axis datum. No need for a tool set block with the issue of chipping a hard surface on a tool like an endmill either.
Don
I bought mine from Travers Tool in about 2000. They were pretty new then and I think I paid close to $500.00 for it.
I just looked it up in the Travers tool catalog, and the 3D Taster ( item 57-030-41 ) is $424.99, and a replacement tip ( item 57-030-42 ) is $49.35.
When I bought it, I still had about 15 years left to work, and I was very much into whatever makes my job easier. I'm still that way. That's why I have a Tormach and not a Bridgeport.
BTW, what is a BOB?
You can buy good parts or you can buy cheap parts, but you can't buy good cheap parts.
Also for quickly finding the center of a hole I built this tool using an interapid 312B-1V indicator and Daedal ˝” positioner.
Don
Hey Don,Also for quickly finding the center of a hole I built this tool using an interapid 312B-1V indicator and Daedal ˝” positioner.
Don
I like that tool. I still use a Interapid indicator to find the center of a hole as well. I haven't figured out how to do it on the Tormach with the Taster yet, but I learn something new on it almost every day. Someday when I have lots of time I'll figure it out.
I'm trying to get my brother to buy one of these machines. He has a wire EDM shop in Newberry Springs and he has a bunch of Dyna-Mite mills. I have 2 Dyna-Mites as well, and next to the Tormach, they are just toys. They have 6.2 inches of X travel, 5 inches in Y and 4 inches in Z, and they rapid at a rip snortin' 30 IPM.
Oh yeah, I forgot. About a month ago I stumbled on a 6 inch 3 jaw Hardinge chuck with top reversable jaws. The guy wanted $175.00 for it and it looked brand new.
Steve
You can buy good parts or you can buy cheap parts, but you can't buy good cheap parts.
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