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If my math is right, you have a 6.1 degree taper on a side. If that taper doesn't have to be exact, could you just use a conical end mill with that taper and either plunge it or circle mill with a slightly smaller mill diameter?
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Ive machined a ball joint taper to accept a ball joint.. about what you are talking about with a ball mill and a small scallop. Probably .0001. Turned out great....
You'll need a 3D CAM program to do it though.(forget if you have one)
David
If my math is right, you have a 6.1 degree taper on a side. If that taper doesn't have to be exact, could you just use a conical end mill with that taper and either plunge it or circle mill with a slightly smaller mill diameter?
Yes, I have Alibre and Rhino. Would be interested in how you did that.Originally Posted by David Bord
Close, I have not drawn it up yet, but I will trust your math.
The taper does not have to be extremely accurate. Its a press fit on a shaft held in with a through bolt. The taper is only so you are not trying to press it on the shaft the full length of contact. (just needs to be pretty until installed)
I am not that accurate with a lathe yet. once the prototype is done I will need 50 to start then who knows how many. So I was hoping there was a nice way to do this on the Tormach... It's so slight an angle there has to be an easy repeatable way to do it.That's what I was picturing. "Hole" generally implies that it's got an inner diameter.
You can grind an inner diameter, given a small enough stone. In this case, you could mount a Dremel tool in the toolpost to do the grinding.
Frederic
You can get conical end mills with 1 degree to 15 degrees (or more) of taper.
That would be an easy way to do it.
Agree.
At 50+ pieces, that's what I'd go with.
If the holes need a really good finish you might consider a Tree Boring Head, which will bore a tapered hole. They may no longer be available new but there seems to be a fairly good used market and used heads are often in good condition since they don't get used much.
Mike
Thanks Mike, I found some and they are rather expensive.
I am going to rethink my design some. I may try and do some practice cuts on my lathe and see how hard it is to setup and cut the angle as some have suggested.
is a tapered reamer too simple?
I have not found a tapered reamer except for hand held versions.
But I did find a tapered end mill that might work. Its 7 degree, but will most likely be ok.
i have my rifle chamber reamers ground to my specs by pacific tool and gauge: Welcome To Pacific Tool and Gauge Inc. -- Reamers, Gauges, Bushings, and more.. i bet they could grind a reamer exactly as you need if you run out of options.
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