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Yes, I use TTS collet holders for drills, and will continue to add more holders as time goes on. I also use the set screw holder for a 1/4" drill I often use. Either keeps my OAL to a minimum which I like.
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Hi Everyone,
I'm curious what others are doing for their TTS setup and specifically regarding drill sizes. I'm really new to this and am just looking for some setup advise.
Do you have many TTS holders holding a range of drill sizes? Or do you constantly change out drill bits?
Even just looking at supporting a small range of screws (M2.5/M3/M4/M5) it could mean a multitude of drills (a total of 16, 4 per size if you include Loose/Normal/Close Clearance and tap holes). Seems like too many to keep setup on TTS holders all the time.
Is it reasonable to only keep drills for small holes and mill out the larger ones? I've worked on a older gantry CNC before which worked well for straight cuts but circular shapes were sloppy at best at smaller resolutions. Given the Tormach's tolerances would it be reasonable to mill out holes larger than 4mm?
Thank you for your input,
Aaron
Yes, I use TTS collet holders for drills, and will continue to add more holders as time goes on. I also use the set screw holder for a 1/4" drill I often use. Either keeps my OAL to a minimum which I like.
RAD. Yes those are my initials.
Idea, design, build, use. It never ends.
I use a lot of different letter size drill bits. If you have a lathe (or access to one) a low-cost solution for needing many sizes is to just turn a bunch of holders. In most of my applications, the Z depth is not critical as it's usually a through hole. I have several Tormach TTS holders that I use for anything requiring close clearance. I also use them on my Bridgeport with a standard 3/4" R8 holder. Total cost is less than $1.00 each plus my time. If you have a CNC lathe (hint, hint, Tormach) you could crank out all you would ever need!
These were made from 12L14 for ease of machining, but you might want to use something harder.
I have 7 drill chucks that I use. I do change drill bits whenever I need to. Some don't change as often as others while I am working on a project. If I have a number of a certain size hole to tap, the drill for those doesn't change.
I use the drill bits to remove material quickly. Drill bits are cheap(er) than end mills and I can resharpen them quickly. I use them up to 5/8" diameter on occasion, and 1/2" regularly. I then use an end mill to make a hole bigger if needed. For my work the accuracy is more than acceptable.
I use reamers for more accuracy on hole size. I generally drill the holes and ream to finish size. I mostly use a chuck to hold the reamer, but collets on occasion.
I use a setup sheet for projects. It doesn't take very long to change out drill bits, measure, and enter into the tool table. Try it a few times and you will have a system that works for you.
That's nice work but it won't work with my ATC.Originally Posted by Wog
RAD. Yes those are my initials.
Idea, design, build, use. It never ends.
I tend to machine all of my holes unless they are to small and need to be tapped later. Then I just use a drill bit in a TTS holder. I have a few chucks I use if I ever do need to drill. I just find its easier to machine a hole. At least for me it is generally the noise of the bit drilling, milling is a lot quieter
I have read that the tooling for your machine could approach the cost of the machine. It usually doesn't start that way, but I can see how this can happen. If you aspire to have it quick and easy for four hole sizes with three different clearances, make do with what you have today and plan a palatable solution to your dilemma. For me that meant purchasing additional drill chucks and TTS holders. Not as many as I want, but a few more. Eventually, I will end up with enough to hold my 4 "standard" sizes (#4, #6, #10, 1/4) for tap drills and "nominal" clearance holes. The squeaky and fat clearance holes can be done on an as needed basis. Now, I'm checking out tappers. Yep, tooling is expansive, but if you want it to be efficient, you gotta pay for it.
As a note, I have the habit of checking my tool table EVERY time I do a job. It only takes a minute or two and it avoids the dreaded CRASH. No one wants extra holes in his table or ruined parts, because "I thought" that tool was #X.
Wog provides a more economical path to the solution. I have seen this done time and again in the shop. I'll have to make a few for my self, now that I've been reminded it can be done. Perhaps, I'll make mine to work with the ATC (I don't have) just to make RADesigns jealous!
I bought the deluxe kit when I bought my machine and since then I've just ordered a couple more as I go, and I still want more!Having dedicated tools really helps when setting up new jobs. I'd say all but a couple of my tool holders are dedicated to a specific tool, this also makes it easier when programming knowing you always have those tools available. I hate having to set up to do a set up on a new part, load the carousel, touch off the part's x,y and z and hit go...........
RAD. Yes those are my initials.
Idea, design, build, use. It never ends.
I have 2 1/64" - 1/4" and 2 1/32" - 1/2" drill chucks that I have described as... Tool # 16 - .25" Drill Chuck Set Drill Ø and OAL As Needed
Tool # 17 - .25" Drill Chuck Set Drill Ø and OAL As Needed
Tool # 18 - .5" Drill Chuck Set Drill Ø and OAL As Needed
Tool # 19 - .5" Drill Chuck Set Drill Ø and OAL As Needed
... in both of my tool tables (Mach 3 and SprutCam)
And I just change out drills as I need them and measure and enter OAL in Mach 3 before each project. And like Magnum164 does I usually machine most holes except for tapped holes.
Gerry
Soon I will have my chuck's replaced. The TTS tooling is smaller and on the 770 gives you more room. The mounted chucks really kill my Z axis travel.I bought the deluxe kit when I bought my machine and since then I've just ordered a couple more as I go, and I still want more!
That being said, it seems I never have the right size ER-20 collet on hand. Thinking back I would have taken the deluxe kit and removed the ER-20 collets and added in what I thought I would use the most of. I have several sizes I will probably never use and need more of the smaller sizes.
+1 A few weeks ago when heading out for vacation we wanted to make an antenna bracket to hold some antennas on the beach for making distant contacts (amatuer radio). I did setup a large drill and quickly decided it was a lot easier and quicker to even setup a boring bar for the 3/4" hole. Less vibration/noise. Could have easily have done it with a end mill and the wizards, but I needed practice..
so the point is there is always more than one way to make a hole than drilling..
Thanks to everyone for your replies. It helps me understand what kind of a setup I should aim for and gives me comfort in knowing I am not alone in some of these dilemmas.
I went the route of buying just the tool holders that I needed, with the idea that I would keep adding. I am trying to make a decision now on how many jacob taper drill chucks I should get for drilling bits.
I also bought a selection of drills to start off with. I have here a set of regular jobber drills as well as machine screw drills (OSG brand) and apart from their obvious difference in length, I am trying to determine if I should equip more of the machine drills or regular jobber drills. From my research on this forum, I see that the machine drills tend to be more aggressive in being able to plunge through material without the need for pecking and center drilling. Although the cycle time/speed is not an issue for me yet, this seems to simplify the operation of making many holes, although I assume the machine drills are meant to be held in ER collets rather than jacob taper drill chucks.
Would this be a case of quaility over quantity if I invested in a few good drill bits for smaller holes, and then milled out larger holes? I guess my main concern would be if the milled out holes would have good enough tolerance for tapping or not. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't given the machine's capabilities.
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