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#14
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![]() It doesn't do all of the work for you, but it help with the set up. Of course, this is just my opinion, as at this time I have never attempted (haven't been in the position to do so yet, but I have a couple of vertical knee mills that I am looking at converting, so I will be there in the near future) an install and configuration of the software to a controller board/cabinet.
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#16
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| You are welcome.... Now, maybe you can help me again. I need some "100% waterproof" or "waterproof enclosure" for my "X" limit switch (The TM1308 is what is on the switch, but it is just the standard "X" limit switch that comes on the Tormach) I am having to keep switching them out every few days (to let them dry out) **Note: This is NOT a Tormach issue, but a nightmare that I believe I created with my table modifcations...see picture below) because of my setup a larger amount of coolant run off is getting directed back into the switch area. I have tried all sorts of silicon (currently have a switch clamped up in a vise siliconed in an enclosure similar to the plastic shell that the original one is siliconed in) drying so I can install it tomorrow.
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#17
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| hdscarbo on this board replaced his limit switches with proximity switches. Here's another discussion on X limit switch problems and some fixes. I haven't had any problems myself so no advice from me... That's a nice toolplate. You say on the caption "There are mating alignment pin holes and bolt down holes in the original table for shifting the plate." Did you pin the table like on the Industrial Hobbies page? Randy |
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#18
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| I am not familiar with how it was done on the Industrial Hobbies page, this setup was drawn and coded for me (cause I was just learning to code at the time) by my friend who was teaching me how to write code. Below is a picture of the table with the base plate removed. The base plate is 4140 1/2" thick* hardened plate that I had blanchard ground to .005" flatness. (In hindsight and what it cost me in tooling to get all of the holes put into the plate and tapped, using a normalized or annealed plate would have been easier) *= before it was blanchard ground. ![]() I will check out those threads and see if they will help. I considered "optical" switches, but hear that the coolant can cause issues with them. I had started looking at "proximity" switches, but haven't done enough research on them beyond being able to spell proximity... LOL
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#19
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| You've done your table already (looks good) but for reference (and for anyone else following the discussion) the IH step by step description of pinning the table starts on this page. I hope you get your limit switch problem sorted out. But from your latest photo, the SS limit switch cover is still in place. Do you need to remove it when using the tooling plate? Randy |
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#20
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| The stainless cover is still used and is just butted up against the bottom of the base plate (so it is still installed in its original location with a bead of silicon at the top of the SS cover and the table.) The tooling plate (what I refer to as my base plate) just stays on the table always, unless I need to shift it because of a fixture limiting my max. milling area. The base plate is so that all of my fixtures (which are stamped with ref. locations) reinstall in the exact same place (so that I can just call the work offset that is set up for the part that is being made on the fixture) and be good to go. I posted in the thread on the proximity switch to asking the original poster if he would email me all of the necessary info to duplicate what he did, as it sounds like the perfect solution for my issue. Thanks for pointing me to it. Mike J
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#21
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| The tooling plate (my base plate) remains mount to the table at all times (unless I need to shift it left or right because of a fixture I am using so that I maintain the complete milling area capability of the machine.) The SS plate has a bead of silicon at the top where it meets the original table and butts up against my base plate.
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