Coolant Pump

[bobs_charger]

So I am currently using the coolant pump that came with the Deluxe Stand. I am curious what people would recommend for a replacemnt with a greater output. I am using one coolant noozle right now but I would like to add a couple more and also add a "sink spayer" for "hosing" down the part. Any recommendations? Oh and as with the pump for the factory I also have the tank that comes with it.

[saabaero]

I am using the stock pump also that came with the deluxe stand but have added a manifold and additional nozzles. The nozzles are smaller in diameter which keeps the pressure up.

I think there is a limit, without having a full cabinet, to how much flow you can have and not have the coolant end up all over the floor. Normally I have to throttle back on the flow with the ball valve.

I have a fitting for a shower sprayer that I purchased at home depot that works very well.

[pete from TN]

I gotta say that is a very elegant looking coolant solution ya built there. My Lathemaster mill is gonna have something like that but I will probably make one that goes on the spindle nose where the old analog depth guage casting used to go. The manifold you made looks like it came with the machine. Where did you get the paint for it and how did you match it so well.... nicely done...peace

[zephyr9900]

Here's a little video of my Tormach using the stock coolant pump and two 1/4" nozzles--I'm happy with the flow rate:

YouTube - coolant

YouTube - coolant

Even though the ball valves are only about half-open each, this is about the max capacity of the pump. The valves are good for balancing the flow between the nozzles though.

Randy

[justgary]

Randy -

Your video was loading too slowly to suit me so I went surfing for it directly on youtube. I found your lathe video also. That's really nice! What were you making wheels for? More F-Scale stuff? Leading or trailing trucks to go with those big drivers, perhaps?

When I guessed at your username (duh) I also found an old newsreel about the Zephyr's record-breaking run in 1934. You may have seen it, but if not, try here:

Originally Posted by http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHe0YSciQao YouTube - 1934 Burlington Pioneer Zephyr

I gotta get a coolant multi-nozzle thingy set up. It would help a whole lot when trying to keep the endmill wet as it goes blind behind a part. Thanks for showing yours.

Regards,

- Just Gary

[zephyr9900]

No, Just Gary, those are for 64" N scale drivers for a steam loco I'm slowly working on. In some other thread I showed the drivers after I mill out the spokes, hub and counterweight.

Thanks for the video link--yes, that's the train of my new avatar. In 1997 I helped design, and made the casting masters for, the N scale Pioneer Zephyr (#9900) kit sold by Fine N-Scale Products. 9900 is my favorite train of all time. It's the first of the first-generation Zephyrs (Burlington Route had five and Boston & Maine had the very similar Flying Yankee, which itself is undergoing restoration to operation in New Hampshire).

Originally Posted by Just Gary Thanks for showing yours.

You're welcome, but make a nice manifold like saabaero's and not a plumber's nightmare like mine. Mine just kind of grew and it looks it. Just this afternoon I tried reconfiguring it with the valves all in a row like saabaero's manifold, but with all the tees and nipples and all, the valves project downwards too far. I'll likely machine a manifold of my own now, maybe from aluminum. (I wonder about galvanic corrosion of brass fittings vs. aluminum with Boelube as the electrolyte?)

Randy

[saabaero]

Just this afternoon I tried reconfiguring it with the valves all in a row like saabaero's manifold, but with all the tees and nipples and all, the valves project downwards too far. I'll likely machine a manifold of my own now, maybe from aluminum.

Thanks zephyr9900 for the compliment. I purchased 2 (4) port pneumatic manifolds from Harbor Freight and welded them together at the corners but you could probably just use one manifold in the front and use a single 90 deg. fitting to the side of the head. Could save you from having to machine one.

As far as galvanic action and corrosion, etc. - I have been using a coolant that seems to work really well. I used to have a lot of issues with the coolant etching the metal, corrosion, rust between parts etc before. But this stuff works great! It is Trim 175 and is crystal clear. It looks like clear water coming out of the nozzles and on the machine/part (and gives good visibility while machining) but haven't had any issues with etching, corrosion or rust with it. To keep it crystal clear I added an in-line 2 stage filter bank.

[justgary]

Randy -

I thought about the N Scale drivers, but figured that you had done the whole job on your Tormach. It wasn't until I rooted around and found your lathe posts that I saw the fixture you used to hold them in the mill. That's a neat fixture. I need to find a decent source for scrap metal so I can make soft jaws and a few other fixtures for things I want to make.

When I gather all of the parts, I plan to use some scrap 1" square steel tube and make a manifold similar to saabaero's. I'll add the bigger loc-line vacuum hose that you showed me also, so they can all mount on the spindle casting. I'll probably add an air line as well for when I want to use that as a coolant. I can use a 1/8" soft copper tube for that.

Regards,

- Just Gary