Essential Items ?
Finally come down to the wire, I've got almost everything setup and just need to push the big red button, however I have a few questions.
I'm buying the Basic PCNC 1100 Package II
Since it's a little tight in my garage for this machine, I'm looking into renting a space. Now I'm not really a rich guy, especially after I buy this thing.So I'm looking into a few little spaces to start out with and eventually move into something a little larger. The place I'm looking at is a 10 x 20 storage unit that allows business to operate 24 hours for only $160 a month that also includes electric.
The problem I'm running into is, how much electric does this machine pull ?
The space only has one outlet, the outlet runs from a main line on the ceiling, which looks like it's only made for a light bulb, but has a light bulb socket convertor that gives two outlets.
Here's the outlet convertor that everyone there is using.
http://www.christmaslightsetc.com/im...ocket_2tap.jpg
What items do you think are needed with your first purchase ?
I was looking at things like
- Load Meter (31101)
- Machine Oil (31386)
- R8 Drawbar (30507) (just to have an extra one)
- Lifting Bar (30576) (is this really needed) ?
- TTS-R8 (30146)
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twocik, section 2.1.1 of the manual says "Power required is 200 to 250 VAC, 50 or 60 Hz. Continuous current is below 15 amps, but a 20 amp breaker or slow blow fuse is recommended." You will also need 115V for the PC and other accessories.
I had to add 230V wiring to my garage. It uses a special double circuit breaker that draws from both hot busses in the box, instead of one bus plus neutral.
You could probably run the PC from the adapter you show.
Randy
it doesn't sound like the storage is going to have the voltage or amperage you will need for the machine. it it is just lights on the circuit, the outlet in the storage is probably only 15a 120volt.
is there a chance you can move some of your seldom used garage stuff into the storage and move the machine into the garage? in a garage, if you don't want to do permanent wiring, you should be able to install a plug on the tormach wiring and pull power off of the dryer outlet. you probably shouldn't do a load of laundry at the same time as you are running the machine though.
Sorry I'm not an electrician at all and most of this stuff is over my head. i do understand it a little bit, but completely. So all together I need at least 4000 watts or a 40 amp breaker ?
I'm going to be running
- Computer
- Monitor
- Coolant
- Tormach
- Florescent overhead light
and other things I'll be running, but with the machine off if needed
- 12" Chop saw
- 3/4 hp metal bandsaw
- Drill press
Chop saws can pull a lot of amps.
In my shop I have the machine and control computer on dedicated breakers. That way if I am running the machine and doing something else that blows a breaker, the machine continues to run.
When I first got my machine I used the stove plug inside my house and ran a 60' extension cord to the garage. It was annoying to have to unplug/plug in the stove all the time but I was renting and it allowed me to have power without installing new lines.
the problem is going to be the storage is only going to have 110 volts to run the lights. it is also probably only a 15 amp circuit. the tormach is going to require a 220 volt, 20 amp circuit. unless you can get a storage unit directly next to the breaker panel, and the storage facility will allow you to have an electrician run the appropriate circuit to your unit, you are most likely out of luck running the machine there.Originally Posted by twocik
honestly, the chop saw alone would probably trip the breaker if you loaded it up on a heavy cut.
I tried running mine on a 16 amp - 240V outlet when I first got it. Every now and then the breaker would trip when the spindle motor kicked in. I switched to a 20 amp outlet.
You don't need the load meter or the lifting bar. TTS is good, machine oil you should be able to buy locally and the spare draw bar is pennies anyway.
Phil
The lifting bar made things easy for me.. It would not have been fun without but you could probably make something similar.
Not sure what you need an extra draw bar for?
I did end up using the lifting bar. Not necessary if you're lifting from below, but what I had available to lift my machine up onto it's stand was a gantry crane. So yeah.
I'd add a vise, unless you've already got one. I'm using a cheap 6", and would vastly prefer a well-made 5".
Didn't need the tilting bar thing, buy Vactra Way Lube, Vactra is a cool word to say. You can't run the machine off the light socket, you will need a 20 or 30 amp dedicated circuit and a clean 120 volt circuit to run a computer and flood coolant.
"Vactra"
BlueFin CNC LLC
Southern Oregon
A couple of carefully placed slings and it's up.
Three point lift, one at the lifting eye and two either side of the base (by use of a 5/8" steel bar through the front lifting holes).
Phil
I think your list of list of essentials is correct. I bought the lifting bar and it proved very valuable in getting the Tormach up on the deluxe stand using a engine crane by myself. The lifting bar keeps the machine somewhat level whilst lifting and thus reduces the lift height and makes the placement much easier. If you have the luxury of a forklift you can probably do without that advice.
If you plan to build your own stand I would caution you to remember to leave enough room under the stand to get your engine crane's legs under it or around it. Also be mindful how high you can lift the Tormach when deciding the stands height.
I bought the Tormach deluxe stand, cause I couldn't build one that nice for much less $. But I have built a number of stands for other milling machines, lathes and other equipment I have. I think an ideal stand would be metal and have cross bars high enough to let you to put a engine cranes legs under it, but low enough you can slip a pallet jack (with blocks) under it and move it around your shop. You might not have a pallet jack now, but you might in the future, having bought one several years ago, I absolutely love it. It makes moving this heavy equipment around my shop a dream. The alternative would be to spend several hours taking everything down, move it and reassemble. Its not just the time saved, its the stress saved from the lifting experience.
Last edited by mal97; 01-16-2010 at 02:51 PM.
Thank you guys for the help on the space, i've moved on to another taking your advice. I found another space, much much nicer and believe it or not cheaper. I'm having an electrician swing by to put in a 220 or 240 outlet in and the unit already has a 120 installed.
Anyone of you know what something like this might cost ?
mal97 I'm going with the deluxe stand Package II. I could probably make a stand as well, but that is going to cost me time. As soon as this machine arrives, I'm pulling a 80 hour week with it. I've got alot to learn on this machine and hope to get everything down in the next week or so.
Does anyone know what programs are included with the package ?
When you get going be dang careful when using the MDI feature, your one G00 away from disaster. Learn what the - and + means from day one. Also remember to never forget to zero your DRO, your just one cycle start away from heading down to the local bar after a long day of perfecting a part that was just wrecked when the endmill tried to rapid all the way through it.
Get SheetCam, it's cool, download a free CAD program, I use CAD X11, but most anything will do. All you need is .DXF export for SheetCam.
BlueFin CNC LLC
Southern Oregon
and where you put the decimal point is very, very important. g0z-.600 can easily turn into g0z-6.00 if you are not paying attention, or so i have heard
Thanks guys, I already own a CNC machine, but just sold it for the Tormach. Yes I've crashed plenty of times when I was first starting out, but I have some experience I've gain in the last three years from it. I'm not a professional... yet, and will probably have little boo boo here and there, but I hope those days are over. thanks for the heads up.
Sheetcam
How does this compare to Cambam ? I've grown quite fond of CB and would hate to have and learn another program. I guess I was hoping more for a CAD program then anything. As for CAD, I do plan to cut some 3D parts and alot of 2.5D milling, but what program will allow both or do all of them allowing this ?
Any recommendations ?
NOW I'm confused on which machine to purchase......
I know it's all about finding what best suits your needs, but just as I was almost there they come out with another. What's confusing me is the gain in speed and feed rate. Why wouldn't the larger machine be faster, stronger all the way round, not the little brother ??
- The parts I plan to fab are mainly aluminum and some stainless steels. Most of the parts I plan to make are within both table work areas. I also wouldn't mind the gain on speed and increased feed rates, but I've been told a good rule of thumb is "the more the machine weights, the more sturdy and cleaner the part will come out". I've noticed on cheaper machines the gibs loosen very often and fly cutting can be a pain to get perfect.
Anyone ?
If a power drawbar is important or will be important to you, note that Tormach has not committed to a power draw bar option for the PCNC 770.
See the Options section of http://www.tormach.com/document_libr...omparision.pdf
bob
For me the Tormach Power draw bar has become an essential item. The power draw bar ease of use has allowed me to increase accuracy and speed machining operations by changing my paradigm of CNC machining. For example; Drilling 1/8” guide pin holes. Before in order not to have to change tools (open the motor cover loosen the draw bar by hand, retighten) I would use a single 135* solid carbide screw machine length split-point drill to make guide pin holes in 1/2” 6061T6 plate. The split point drill isn’t the best for clearing aluminum chips. A parabolic drill works way better at drilling aluminum and removing chips but wanders without a guide hole. The solid carbide screwmachine length splitpoint drill is very stiff and doesn’t wander so much but does not remove chips when drilling in aluminum so well. I used the splitpoint drill to avoid changing tools because it’s used to be PITA to change tools quickly.
Now since the power draw bar makes it so easy and fast to change TTS tools at the push of a button, I start with a 120* spot drill, followed by a screw machine length 1/8” parabolic HSS drill @5140rpm, followed by an 0.126” reamer at @2Krpm done in one part fixturing. In addition I set the spot drill at a depth to add a chamfer when the guide pin hole is made. When making guide pin holes it is not possible to re-fixture the part as I normally do when machining. Typically I run one tool at a time on a series of parts, then re-fixture and run the next operation with a new tool. Tormach may not have an ATC but the Power Draw Bar is the next best thing. The Power draw bar has become an essential item for me.
Don Clement
Running Springs, California
Currently under 4 feet of snow
Last edited by Don Clement; 01-25-2010 at 01:27 AM.
You're talking about the power draw bar, I think it's still in beta test right? I can't find it on Tormach's site.
It is in the production stage and will supposedly be available any day now. It would be my most essential item IF I could buy one!!
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