Deluxe Tormach Stand Leaking
After 1yr... my deluxe stand is leaking. It is not pouring but all along with inside top edges of stand, you can see streaks of coolant. Today (after 16mos), it leaked bad enough to short out the power strip I used in the computer compartment and it popped the breaker and shut down my mill.
From what I can tell... the pan on the stand is spot welded at the bottom every few inches... and on top... I originally thought it was exopied all along the edges but it's looking like paint was used to water proof and seal all the edges. I have to admit I did use the wrong coolant a few months back and the coolant ate through the paint on a few spots and rusted 2 spots the size of a golf ball on the pan. But no paint peeling or rust along or near the edges at all.
Anyone else having leaky stand problems?? What was your solution?? I would hate to remove the mill, sand or sand blast the pan (top of stand), reseal all edges, paint and assemble. I'm running a few jobs now... and this will probabily take at least 2-3 weeks without a machine.
Similar Threads:
oops
Apeman,
bad news from your end...
There are two things that I would do first:
1. check whether your silicone seal is really sealing between the pan and the rear shield. That might be an easy fix relative to the other described hassle.
2. Make sure the inside of your computer is totally dry before you reboot it. If the main bord has a shortage the damage will be ugly. I placed my computer outside, high and with a healthy distance to the mill.
Benji
Thanks for the reply. All the silicone seal I put in (all mating pieces of the stand and stand wings) are holding fine. Leaks are all from the base pan and side wall of the stand. The reason I did not seal between the stand and side wall when I first put it together is becuase I thought the factory would seal it already. There were no cracks or hole visible since they were all covered up with paint.
I just got an email back from Bob at Tormach. Looks like the only solution is to lift the mill, take off the stand wings, give the stand a really good cleaning and degreasing , seal all around the base pan and side wall of the stand and reassemble. Looks like I'll be busy this wewkend! :-(
apeman88, in another thread 300sniper recommended POR fuel tank sealer. If you are going to the trouble of dismounting your machine, it might be worth getting some of that.
My stand has had a mysterious leak from the start. I've been through two cycles of dismounting the drip trays and re-sealing with GE Silicone II, and, as you have theorized, I think my leak is internal to the stand. My theory is that the leak is happening around the left front machine pad/stud and traveling under the stand top in the inverted-V stiffeners.
Randy
bolts and threads
Another thought: I sealed the machine bolts with silicone where they enter the pads.... don't ask, just because. Maybe the holes/threads are cut a little deep. Did anyone try on that end?
You are a wiser man than I, Gunga Din. To my regret I did not think to do that when first assembling the mill. And at this point I would need to do a major disassembly and degreasing before trying that. I do have a mop and bucket permanently stationed next to my Tormach though...
Randy
Before I assembled the Tormach, I read about the leaks and etc so I was super careful and used a lot of GE Silicone and sealed all mating pieces, filled bolt holes with Silicone before screwing down and anywhere I thought where leaks might occur. I even made a cap and siliconed the coolant pump hose on the table (see pic #5). Where ever I sealed... the seals are holding. The leaks are from where the pan of the cabinet on top to the side walls of the cabinet (see pic #1~3) leaking down inside the cabinet. The leaks are getting worst and is leaking from inside the cabinet (on the right side of the cabinet) to the outside through the precut outlet holes on the cabinet (see pic #4).
When I first put it all together, I took a look at the seams between the top base pan and the side walls and they looked like they were sealed... of course they were covered by paint... but I thought they would be good to go. I guess not.
The fuel tank sealer looks interesting. I was going to use some Marine Sealant (recommended by Bob at Tormach) but the fuel tank sealer looks like a better bet especially against chemical. Thanks!
Pan and seams
Apeman,
You are probably right. To my mind that is a design flaw. They should make the welding seam all the way around.
I wonder why they don't make the pan out of one bended piece and then weld it on top. Shoud be easier to make/ assemble (tolerances) and should take care of the leakage problem.
I will talk to a buddy of mine who has a shipyard. Maybe he can come up with a smart idea from their perspective (fillers/paints).
Benji
Silicone doesn't have much adhesion over time compared to other materials. Good for using between parts that are mechanically fastened but not so good for caulking. Boaters use 3M 4200 for serviceable seams, and 5200 when they want a permanent bond. Don't know how 4200 or 5200 holds up to coolant though.
I used a product called "Seamer Mate" to repair some gutter joints. I have no idea how it might react to coolant, but it has excellent adhesion and longevity out in the weather. I suspect that it is fairly inert once cured. You can find it at your local box store.
Regards,
- Just Gary
adhesives
'talked to my shipyard-buddy. He said there is a multitude of adhesives on the market for metal adhesives and sealant. Supposingly many steel assemblies are glued today. He suggested one talks to:
http://www.extremeadhesives.com/
They have some solutions on their website.
Benji
I built a wood stand like the drawings on the Tormach site. I went a little overboard and used fiberglass epoxy to seal the entire top of the stand and the coolant drains (I have three). I then painted it with a POR-15 type of paint to cover the epoxy.
If I had the metal stand, based upon all the reports, I'd use the marine grade 3M 4200 to seal all the joints and the bolt holes, and then the POR-15 to cover the entire top. The POR stuff is easy to use and tough as nails.
Interesting stuff... the 3M 4200. Looking into it... I'm thinking 4200 and 5200. 5200 for the first layers around the joint and 4200 around all the removable pieces. Thanks!!
The marine sealant is probably a solution for those whose machine is already set up and running. If I was just taking delivery, I would take the stand and have it sandblasted and then weld all the seams and have it powder coated. The Chinese like to use bondo as a sealer and cover it over with paint, but the kind of vibrations you get from a machine in operation will eventually crack this mix and once the coolant gets in, it spreads.
You may as well just build a stand if you where to go through all that trouble. The wood stand is about $250-$300 in materials, even with the epoxy fiberglass top.Originally Posted by sharpshooter90
I had the same problem you did. My machine was leaking and coolant would get on the ground. I didn't need to change out the coolant because it would leak out and I would refil, but anyways, what I did was cleaned the chip tray and cleaned the machine like new. All the potential joints that could leak I then cleaned with rubbing alcohol and used RTV silicon to seal it. Let it dry for a day and I have not hane anyproblems with it. I will mention I did use a good amount of RTV because I forced it into every concievible crack that could result in a leak.
Reply with Quote
