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Thread: Drilling with Keyed Chuck

  1. #21
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    Default Re: Drilling with Keyed Chuck

    Albrecht is very good, but $$$
    Jacobs is also very good.
    Can I add Vertex for chucks? I have one, and it is very reliable.

    Cheers
    Roger
    EDIT: curiously, it seems that their keyed chicks are no longer available - only keyless ones. Yet another case of discontinuing a good product.

    Last edited by RCaffin; 08-18-2017 at 05:22 AM.


  2. #22
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    Default Re: Drilling with Keyed Chuck

    I bought a keyless Albrecht lookalike chuck from a guy on EBAY for $10 because he tore his hair out trying to rework it to make it run true......he used a wooden lap and grinding paste etc,....... just didn't have a clue.

    I had to individually grind each jaw in situ with a small diamond grinding lap mounted in an air die grinder,

    It was cut and try and after a couple of hours got it to approx.a thou or so on concentricity eventually......holds from 2mm up to 12mm reliably......now it's my main go to tool for drilling in the mill and the lathe too.
    Ian.



  3. #23
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    Default Re: Drilling with Keyed Chuck

    Quote Originally Posted by handlewanker View Post
    ...........tightening a "normal" 3 jaw scroll chuck by progressively using all 3 key holes is totally irrelevant.

    Once the jaws are tightly gripping the work piece any subsequent application of force to the other chuck key holes will NOT increase the holding force.......if you believe that this is not true you also think the World is flat...............I do get so wound up by stupid assumptions.
    Ian.
    My experience is that it DOES make a difference when you tighten all 3 key holes. Tighten one as much as you can with the key, then got to the next one and tighten it. I've found that it does move a little, go to the 3rd and it also moves a little. I've had an issue where a drill was slipping in the chuck after tightening only one key hole. Tightened all 3 and the job finished without slipping.

    It isn't because the world is flat it's because steel isn't infinitely stiff. Friction and elasticity prevent the force on all the jaws being the same when tightened from one key hole.



  4. #24
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    Default Re: Drilling with Keyed Chuck

    Quote Originally Posted by IMT View Post
    My experience is that it DOES make a difference when you tighten all 3 key holes. Tighten one as much as you can with the key, then got to the next one and tighten it. I've found that it does move a little, go to the 3rd and it also moves a little. I've had an issue where a drill was slipping in the chuck after tightening only one key hole. Tightened all 3 and the job finished without slipping.

    It isn't because the world is flat it's because steel isn't infinitely stiff. Friction and elasticity prevent the force on all the jaws being the same when tightened from one key hole.
    I'm with you. On higher quality chucks it may not be necessary, but on the Tormach models (as well as other inexpensive types) I have noticed the same as IMT.

    When you are tightening down on one hole, the key isn't just rotating the toothed ring. The key is also applying a lot of force on that ring pushing it down (towards the shank) in one area which is much different than a keyless chuck where all the force is being applied in a rotational manner. By hitting all three holes, you apply this downward force evenly around the chuck as you're turning the ring.

    I'm not a scientist or a metallurgist, but I know what I feel when I tighten the other two holes.



  5. #25
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    Default Re: Drilling with Keyed Chuck

    My experience is that it DOES make a difference when you tighten all 3 key holes.
    I guess this could be so, for the reasons given.
    But the 'reasons' are simply that it is a cheap chuck with poor tolerances. Quality chucks do not have this behaviour.
    Whether one is prepared to work around the deficiencies of poor quality tooling is of course up to the individual. Ymmv.

    Cheers



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