TTS holder for a 1" shank saw arbor?


Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: TTS holder for a 1" shank saw arbor?

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    109
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default TTS holder for a 1" shank saw arbor?

    Got a great deal on a Kennametal 2.5" .087 carbide insert slotting/grooving/cutoff saw including the arbor, wrench and rings. I want to use it with my TTS tooling but the arbor is 1". It's a beautiful arbor and trying to somehow hold it from the front end and turn down the shank seems like I'll only be making a nice tool worse.

    Does anyone make a 1" ER32 collet so I can use an ER32 TTS holder? Or a TTS setscrew holder that takes a 1" weldon? Either would make this easy but so far I can't find them. At 1hp on my 770 it's not like I'm going to put too much torque into any of these pieces.

    Similar Threads:


  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    720
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: TTS holder for a 1" shank saw arbor?

    One option you have would be to buy a Tormach TTS "blank". It's 20 bucks and it's just a 38X60 mm cylinder meant to be machined to what ever purpose you choose. 38 mm is an inch and a half, so would leave a 1/4" wall for set screws, not huge, but should be plenty for a saw.

    https://www.tormach.com/store/index....02&portrelay=1

    Terry



  3. #3
    Member Steve Seebold's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    USA and proud of it
    Posts
    1863
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: TTS holder for a 1" shank saw arbor?

    Tormach has a 1 inch saw arbor. I know because I have one.

    Their part number is 32431. It's $46.50.



  4. #4
    Member handlewanker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    6463
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: TTS holder for a 1" shank saw arbor?

    Hey, don't get wowed by the fact that the shank is nice and shiny....it's ground........it's probably case hardened so grinding is the only way to finish it after hardening for sale etc..

    If you grip it as you say in the lathe chuck and support the shank end with the tailstock then break through the case you can do a pretty good fine finish to 3/4" diam by just turning it and then lapping it to a fine finish with some wet and dry paper.

    The shank diam only needs to be running true to 19mm or 3/4" +- a thou or two, so if you can't turn to that limit something is wrong.

    This is a much better solution as it will be the same as your other TTS tooling.
    Ian.



  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    109
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by handlewanker View Post
    Hey, don't get wowed by the fact that the shank is nice and shiny....it's ground........it's probably case hardened so grinding is the only way to finish it after hardening for sale etc..

    If you grip it as you say in the lathe chuck and support the shank end with the tailstock then break through the case you can do a pretty good fine finish to 3/4" diam by just turning it and then lapping it to a fine finish with some wet and dry paper.

    The shank diam only needs to be running true to 19mm or 3/4" +- a thou or two, so if you can't turn to that limit something is wrong.

    This is a much better solution as it will be the same as your other TTS tooling.
    Ian.
    I don't have a lathe so I'd have to Mill turn it. That makes holding it without a tailstock challenging but maybe doable.

    You are making me wish I had a Rapidturn right now. No floor space for a full lathe.



  6. #6
    Member handlewanker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    6463
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: TTS holder for a 1" shank saw arbor?

    Hi....are you thinking of holding the work piece vertically in the spindle?......I think a 4th axis adapted would give better results for the odd occasion, possibly driven by a separate motor.

    If you wanted to go the spindle path you'd need to mount a guide support on the table to prevent the shaft from deflecting etc.

    A bracket held in the vice with 2 ball races to touch the shank as it moved down would give support to a tool mounted on a block on the opposite side.

    You'd have to adjust the pressure of the ball races against the tool shank as it was cut away by moving the table etc and move the tool for the cut depth in the block separately.

    It would act something like a lathe's moving steady rest on it's side, but actually more like a roller box tool as used in a capstan lathe for turning slender spindles etc.

    If you had an old lathe compound slide bolted to the table that would make the tool adjusting simple, maybe the answer to turning in the mill.

    Depending on the amount of shank stick out from the collet in the spindle you might not need the ball races if the cutes were small.....a ratio of 4D would be OK unsupported......the final cut is light anyway.

    LOL.....how about bolting an angle grinder to the table and grind it to get through the case hardening?
    Ian.



  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    720
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: TTS holder for a 1" shank saw arbor?

    If you want to turn the shank down and don't have access to a lathe, here is one way to do it.
    Essentially I told the 1100 to cut a deep circular pocket with the inside edge of the cutter at the desired shaft diameter.

    I used this method to repair a worn, then built up by welding, boss on a tractor front end, so high circular precision wasn't really necessary.

    I will leave it to the guys that know more about the way g code is executed to say if this method is accurate enough for you requirement.

    If it will work, it should be easy to hold the arbor in a vice, or fixture.

    Terry

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails TTS holder for a 1"  shank saw arbor?-tractor-bar-jpg  


  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    109
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by handlewanker View Post
    Hi....are you thinking of holding the work piece vertically in the spindle?......I think a 4th axis adapted would give better results for the odd occasion, possibly driven by a separate motor.

    If you wanted to go the spindle path you'd need to mount a guide support on the table to prevent the shaft from deflecting etc.

    A bracket held in the vice with 2 ball races to touch the shank as it moved down would give support to a tool mounted on a block on the opposite side.

    You'd have to adjust the pressure of the ball races against the tool shank as it was cut away by moving the table etc and move the tool for the cut depth in the block separately.

    It would act something like a lathe's moving steady rest on it's side, but actually more like a roller box tool as used in a capstan lathe for turning slender spindles etc.

    If you had an old lathe compound slide bolted to the table that would make the tool adjusting simple, maybe the answer to turning in the mill.

    Depending on the amount of shank stick out from the collet in the spindle you might not need the ball races if the cutes were small.....a ratio of 4D would be OK unsupported......the final cut is light anyway.

    LOL.....how about bolting an angle grinder to the table and grind it to get through the case hardening?
    Ian.
    This is a lot of ideas. tool end is 5/8 or so. If I grab that in an ER collet it would be a little over 5x stickout. You know the angle grinder isn't the worst idea ever. I could get it close then skim it with the lathe tool. It's just a question of deflection.



  9. #9
    Member handlewanker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    6463
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: TTS holder for a 1" shank saw arbor?

    Hi, I've seen an angle grinder used on a lathe to grind a spindle and it did a pretty good job too despite the disc only being 6mm thick.

    Some years ago I used an angle grinder with a 75mm long attachment for mounted stones with 6mm shanks to grind out collets on a capstan lathe I have.

    Most, if not all, angle grinders normally have 2 threaded holes to fit handles for left or right handed people and this is where you can attach a bracket to bolt onto whatever machine you have.

    An angle grinder does about 10,000 rpm unloaded with a 100mm diam disc.

    If you used an ordinary light dimmer switch rated at 10 amps at 240 volts you can control the speed to allow grinding with aluminium oxide stones as used on cutter grinders......speed needs to be kept down to about 3,500 rpm.

    A 20mm wide aluminium oxide wheel would work well if dressed in situ with a diamond stick.....for a final finish, as the job would get too hot for serious metal removal.
    Ian.



  10. #10

    Default Re: TTS holder for a 1" shank saw arbor?

    Are you using a tool-changer with your 770?
    If not, then why not use an R8 x 1" end mill holder?
    Like so:
    TTS holder for a 1"  shank saw arbor?-r81-jpeg



  11. #11
    Member handlewanker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    6463
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: TTS holder for a 1" shank saw arbor?

    Hi, unless you know for certain that the part you showed would fit in the spindle after the R8 collet was removed...... same draw bar thread etc......and didn't but against the spindle bottom face before the taper seated in the spindle, then it would probably be an ideal solution.

    The TTS system, as is known, relies on a tool location face being pulled up against the spindle bottom face as the in situ collet/drawbar assembly is tightened.........this cannot happen if the adaptor shown contacts the bottom face first and therefore can't locate in the spindle bottom taper.

    The solution to that problem would be to skim a bit off the adaptor face to allow the taper to seat in the spindle......as the adaptor is hardened this might be a problem......you could skim a mm at a time with a carbide tool until the taper seats and you have a gap between the spindle face and the adaptor.

    That would be much easier and simpler than turning or grinding the tool shank down.
    Ian.



Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


About CNCzone.com

    We are the largest and most active discussion forum for manufacturing industry. The site is 100% free to join and use, so join today!

Follow us on


Our Brands

TTS holder for a 1"  shank saw arbor?

TTS holder for a 1"  shank saw arbor?