4th axis vs rotating 90deg in vise

[jmosley]

I plan to mill an intricate part )miniature 4" long cello neck) from maple with four operations at 90 degree indexes on my tormach 770.

I'm cutting some fat off all sides and then shaping the intricate curvy form

Do you think it would be more accurate to use a vise and rotate the wood block 4 times (the area I cut would be off to the side of the vise) or is it more accurate to use a tormach 6in 4th axis with four jaw chuck because this would only require the wood to be clamped once? Any thoughts??




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[Jim Dawson]

Either way would work fine. The final part depends on the accuracy on your setup. In the vice, it's all on you. The question is: Do you have confidence in your ability to set the part?

[IMT]

If you have the 4th axis I would use it. Using the vice requires 4 setups and the squareness of the stock also affect the accuracy. The 4th is just one (much more time consuming) setup.

[mountaindew]

Imho
Vise more accurate but slow setups and faster cam time, 4th axis little less accurate,but fast parts, cam and code can also take more time depending on skill, but pays of if you make a few parts.

Using a vise with parallels and material stops can provide the most accurate 4 side object mill process. also easy to cam. The more accurate the stock you start with overall squareness before you start the main program also makes a huge difference for me. ' I find if I carefully start with a very square block of material, I end up with a very noticeable difference in quality and dimension of finished multi sided part. I also have a 8 super spacer on my pcnc1100 and can get almost same results. it does lack a little with backlash but it can use a rougher stock and get decent results also will take far less time after the cam work is done My favorite is anything that can be indexed to a 5c collet system can also provide a very accurate small multi sided parts. I do some crazy little parts with 6 sides with 2-5 operations per side all made out of a 1" dia or square by X long material. super easy to cam .

[Steve Seebold]

If you can do in a 4th axis I would do it that way. Every time you pick up your part, there's a chance something can go wrong resulting in scrapping your part.

[jmosley]

This is all very very helpful! Thanks! I keep looking for the part that is going to justify ordering a 4th axis - I suppose it's possible to do it without it but it might be better to cut it from smaller indexes than 90degrees, or even continuous.. I'll try the vise first I guess , thanks again!


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[Jim Dawson]

This is all very very helpful! Thanks! I keep looking for the part that is going to justify ordering a 4th axis - I suppose it's possible to do it without it but it might be better to cut it from smaller indexes than 90degrees, or even continuous.. I'll try the vise first I guess , thanks again!


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Sounds like a good excuse to buy a new toy, 'er tool Besides every new project requires a new tool.

[IMT]

...Besides every new project requires a new tool.

I've been telling my wife that for years.

[mountaindew]

Sounds like a good excuse to buy a new toy, 'er tool Besides every new project requires a new tool.

That is my reason also. I added this tech because the cam option alone costs big bucks. Sprutcam is 1k and any other program is 4x that from what I seen at time of purchase, this allows me use of extra complex cam I paid for. The 8" super spacer is not a trivial tool (212 lbs). It comes in a small but very heavy crate and and requires some heavy lifting. I did not buy one until I had a way to lift and set it on mill easy, safe and fast. My mill is in a tight work-space by design for small movements to complete parts and using a engine hoist is not a convenient option .



Big chunk of metal to get in place. Not that hard to get dialed in, I was surprised. I also use the hal sensor.

[IMT]

I like your hoist setup. I also have the 8" super spacer, I use a lift cart that I can raise level with the table and slide it on and off (to keep from scratching the table and mounting surfaces I walk it onto a thin piece of wood and then slide it with the wood onto the table and walk it off the wood onto the table). Lift cart is very useful for other things in the shop, one of those tools I wished I bought years ago.

[Jim Dawson]

Nice setup ! I went with a 6 inch, at least I can still lift it. Been thinking about a lift cart, my poor old back is giving out.

[metalfixer]

I would go with the 4th axis, easier to use on the 770, than the vise.
Just my opinion, I've only used it on the 1100, and it is heavy.
This is what I have been using for lifting. Mount will bolt to the table, easy on and off.
Industrial Lifting Device, Chuck Lifting Device, Vise Lifting
Larry

[mountaindew]

Trolley crane was easy solution. 89$ 400lb harbor fright winch, $21 electrical conduit track at home depot, a 2x4 laying around and a couple trolley wheel brackets from Mcmaster. Lag bolt it to wood truss and your done in less the an hour. The cheap winch is not real precise moving but works for lifting and setting stuff. I also lay 1x2 pine sticks and set the spacer on them. Slide across the table to other end, because the winch is aligned over left side of table. the track runs the 20 feet that shop bay I also have another trolley winch running down the middle of the other shop bay. They are used for lifting 400lb or less loads in my shop. I can back in trailer with material and lift 80 lb sheets of ply or whatever, even lawn mower and not have to use my back. One of the more useful tools that is not taking up space on floor . Anyway I like being the only one on my street with cnc tools, cat 5 network on 3 walls with 2 computers and small overhead cranes in their garage along with my jeep. Did I mention its also heated, cooled, Led lights large and small everywhere, central vac, ports for air tools, vac ports for vac tools,...... my neighbor walked thru the other day to find me in back yard and she was shocked. lol