$100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

[Ftoggle]

I am curious about this also. My personal take on the wiring setup is detailed in the attached photo, but I was hoping for confirmation from the thread originator before I committed solder to it.

Also... Did the unit require a current limiting resistor on the red/gray circuit? The ckt diagram doesn't indicate the IC used to feed the NC sensor loop.

[Contract_Pilot]

Same as I have it wired.

Red 24V
Grey/Orange
Brown

[691175002]

I'm pretty sure my ETS arrived dead, but can you guys take a look at my wiring?

Something is definitely happening because the current draw goes from 4ma to 0ma when activated, but orange/brown are always open.

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[Ftoggle]

I'm going to have to assume, after looking back at the original 66a Technical Parameters, that the IC used for triggering the Brown/Orange optical isolator is nothing more than a current forwarding device; ergo, the designation 'I/F'.

In which case, according to the recommendations, the Contact Rating is DC24V (but with the stipulation of 20ma) MAX... and a 'recommended' 10ma resistive load.

So in your case, where you are applying 24V to the 'IF' Red wire, what they're asking for is a [24-2V / .010A] current-limiting series resistor [2200 ohms], placed on the Red feed leg prior to the IC; that will also limit the internal Opto-isolator LED circuit and protect it from over current.

I will admit, this assumes the working LEDs are red in color, because white and blue can usually carry twice the applied voltage. If the LED emission is too low with 2200 ohms, try adjusting it to 1500 and reevaluate... but I think 1100 would be an absolute minimum value.

Follow? Agree?

If so, your unit has already suffered from over-current damage...

and that's why I inquired for input on my question "Also... Did the unit require a current limiting resistor on the red/gray circuit? The ckt diagram doesn't indicate the IC used to feed the NC sensor loop."

This is pretty much the point where I give out a oh-hell-dammit... but I'm 'trying' to be on your side, 6911; hope this information at least helps.

[691175002]

This is pretty much the point where I give out a oh-hell-dammit... but I'm 'trying' to be on your side, 6911; hope this information at least helps.

That seems plausible, I honestly just saw the 24V input and assumed it would work like the typical npn inductive switch. Looking at the datasheet I thought the 20ma limit applied to the brown/orange optoisolator(?) and assumed the LED had a resistor that was omitted from the diagram. Of course the whole thing is chinese so I have no way to tell.

Since it draws 4ma unactuated and 0ma when depressed I still might be able to get a signal out of it with a transistor; but but the entire thing is filled with glue so there is no chance of repair.

[Contract_Pilot]

6911 You should not need any current limit resistor.... Just measure what the machine put out should be about 5MA.

The measurement on my machine with my fluke 187 was about 4-5ma on the 12V Pin 3.

Red (On The Tormach 12V) Pin 3
Grey/Orange Pin 4
Brown Pin 5

Make sure you just connect the right pins and have path pilot on proper settings.

Video LED Works... Little Faint due to the low current.



Signal to Tormach Control Board. When ETS is Activated.

[kstrauss]

To revive an older thread, I ordered CNC Tool Presetter, Automatic CNC Tool Setting Gauge for Z Axis E | eBay on September 3 and it arrived last week. After a little puzzling over the datasheet (Chinese only but with some diagrams) I have it connected and working on my Tormach. It seems reasonably well made although probably only coolant resistant rather than coolant proof. Tool length results are reproducible to about 2-tenths. There are two switches inside. A NC switch senses when the plunger is slightly depressed and is used for setting the tool length. There is also a NO switch which closes after about 1cm of overtravel. I assume that it is for safety and should be wired to eStop. This is a problem for several reasons: the eStop chain on the Tormach is all NC switches, eStop does not go to the accessory connector so wiring would be cumbersome, relying on a switch to actually close in an emergency is probably not a safe plan.

To get it to work, connect the red and orange probe leads to pins 4 and 5 of the accessory connector (you'll need a 5-pin DIN audio connector) and configure things for a passive probe.

[Mooser]

Mine came with only 4 wires (red, orange, green and blue) and both the shallow depress and the over-travel switches seem to be normally close. it would seem that there are several variations
M

[brianbonedoc]

Kstrauss or contract_pilot - I just received my ets and it seems pretty flimsy - do yours wobble like this?

[kstrauss]

NO!
After seeing your video I went to the shop for a quick test. With a DTI touching the edge of the flat top contact surface and pressing firmly sideways on the shiny shroud, the top moves less than 0.0005 on the indicator. Nothing personal but I suspect that you have a screw loose.

[brianbonedoc]

NO!
After seeing your video I went to the shop for a quick test. With a DTI touching the edge of the flat top contact surface and pressing firmly sideways on the shiny shroud, the top moves less than 0.0005 on the indicator. Nothing personal but I suspect that you have a screw loose.

Yeah thanks man. That’s what I figured!
(My wife’s been saying that for years)

I just sent a message to the amazon seller w/ the video link. Let's see what they say.

For everyone else's reference this is the link to the item i bought: Amazon.com: SHINA 66B CNC Automatic Tool Touch Sensor Normally Open With Blowing Setting Gauge Z-Axis Presetter Locator with Stroke 5mm For Mach3 etc: Arts, Crafts & Sewing

[kstrauss]

What was the source of your high speed (water cooled?) spindle? Are you happy with it?

[VAAR]

Thanks for posting, and for the detailed instructions. I just ordered one of these.

[dajt]

I just bought one of these that included the same wiring diagram as on the first page of this thread. But my wires are red, black, green, yellow.

Before I damage something I hope someone can confirm I'm going about this the correct way.

I tested it using a PC power supply.

+12v to red
+5v to green
GND to black

A multimeter measuring volts between the yellow wire and GND.

With the ETS not pressed down there is +5v between the yellow wire and GND. Pressing the ETS changes this to 0v.

I think that means green/yellow are a normally open circuit that is closed when I press the ETS. If I swap the green/yellow wires it makes no difference.

So would I wire this thing:

Tormach Acc Pin ETS wire

3, 12v red
4, common black and yellow
1, 5v green

So the ETS internals are powered by pins 3 and 4, and the NO switch connects pins 1 and 4 so pin 1 is grounded when the ETS is pressed?

I appreciate any advice, I'm not too good with electronics.

[Steve Seebold]

My Mitutoyo 950-111 works just fine for me.

[maxspongebob]

I have one of those. Here is my post from the build.
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/benchtop-machines/345192-cnc-software-posts-post2156530.html#post2156530

Sorry, old thread...

[dajt]

I got mine working tonight. I had to tell PathPilot it is a passive probe to get it to work - could my wiring be at fault? It was sold as an NO unit, and I thought my tests with a power supply and voltmeter confirmed that.

I wired what I assumed to be the power for the electronics to the Tormach 12v/GND pins, and the other two wires to the singal and GND pins thinking that closing the switch would connect the singal line to ground and trip PathPilot.

One thing I have not seen mentioned anywhere and that wasn't obvious to me until I tested it was that the two wires that are not power supply, ie the switch wires are interchangeable. It does not matter which of them goes to signal and which to ground. This may be blindingly obvious to others but when your wire colours don't match up, you're not sure if it's just a plain switch or something else, and you really don't want to cause damage to anything it gives you pause wondering whether it matters which goes where.

I decided to set Z=0 where the empty spindle nose (tool 0) trips the switch and put 0.0 in for the ETS height using a floating point rounding error. Anyone see a problem with this? It seemed to work ok.

Interestingly mine does not have an LED on the unit. Must have been a bit of cost saving going on. I won't miss it.

[kstrauss]

Your ETS sounds identical to mine which has no LED or other electronics -- just two switches. One switch is NC and opens when the ETS is actuated and the other is an overtravel switch which should probably be a part of the eStop chain. I prefer a passive ETS for several reasons: There is no reconfiguration of PP when changing from ETS to the normal probe. Most importantly if you attempt to use the ETS without having the ETS cable plugged in you get an immediate error from PP.

[dajt]

If that is the case I'd better unsolder the red and black wires! At the moment they connect 12v and GND. I'll check with the multimeter. It never occured to me they were the over-travel switch as the instructions clearly show power supply wires and electronics inside. Thanks for the hint.

[dajt]

I took the ETS off the mill and tested the two switch wires with no power "applied" to the ETS via the red and black wires. Using just a continuity test mode on my multimeter, the switch does seem to be a NC switch and it does not seem to require any power - the instructions imply there is some active electronics in there but there does not seem to be in my case.

I'll unsolder the wire I have going to the +12v pin and see if it still works on the machine soon.

I didn't get what I asked for, but perhaps a simple switch is good enough!