Tool rack design for 1100 Enclosure

[Paul-JB]

I know there are several nice variations of ideas on Tormach tool storage out there but I put my own little design together using a few custom brackets I made and some 39" shelf standards from the Big box store. The easy way would have been to screw the standards directly to the enclosure but I wanted something that did not require drilling or modifying the enclosure in any way so when removed there is no sign it was ever there. Brackets attach using existing enclosure screws. I slotted the holes and made them a bit larger to allow for adjustment and measurement errors on my part. My other goal was to have it be very flexible in terms of shelf spacing and also to be able to make various versions of the shelves depending on the tools. The side brackets are laser cut 16 ga 430 SS and designed to fit standard 3-1/2" and 5-1/2" x 3/4" S4S pine lumber. I reverse engineered the store bought bracket hooks profile to work on the standards. Some folks say wood is no good for the tools (corrosion?) but I've never had any problems. I suppose hdpe or nylon could be used but I figured pine was cheap and good enough. Next step is to cut to length and machine the hole patterns into a few shelves. Very bottom bracket designed no angle shelf for calipers or misc. heres some photos progress so far






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[popspipes]

I know there are several nice variations of ideas on Tormach tool storage out there but I put my own little design together using a few custom brackets I made and some 39" shelf standards from the Big box store. The easy way would have been to screw the standards directly to the enclosure but I wanted something that did not require drilling or modifying the enclosure in any way so when removed there is no sign it was ever there. Brackets attach using existing enclosure screws. I slotted the holes and made them a bit larger to allow for adjustment and measurement errors on my part. My other goal was to have it be very flexible in terms of shelf spacing and also to be able to make various versions of the shelves depending on the tools. The side brackets are laser cut 16 ga 430 SS and designed to fit standard 3-1/2" and 5-1/2" x 3/4" S4S pine lumber. I reverse engineered the store bought bracket hooks profile to work on the standards. Some folks say wood is no good for the tools (corrosion?) but I've never had any problems. I suppose hdpe or nylon could be used but I figured pine was cheap and good enough. Next step is to cut to length and machine the hole patterns into a few shelves. Very bottom bracket designed no angle shelf for calipers or misc. heres some photos progress so far

Looks good Paul!


I use pine for tool holders as well with no problems, I do soak them good with some motor oil or equivalent before use though.

[Paul-JB]

Made one shelf and slapped a few tools on to test it. I'm thinking its going to work out good.

[Jim Dawson]

I like it

[MichaelHenry]

Great idea!

[tbev]

Super clean!

[Spinnetti]

Made one shelf and slapped a few tools on to test it. I'm thinking its going to work out good.

Nice!

[eltejano]

Nice!

I was thinking of something similar for the wall right next to my machine. I will space the holes a little farther and make a few changes still. I am designing a ton of shelves I'll be cutting on a cnc router soon.

[Paul-JB]

That looks good too! I like the hooks are those an extrusion profile??
One thing I noticed right away on mine was that having multiple rows could be problematic in that reaching over front row tools to grab ones in back could cause cuts or pokes to your hands, wrists etc from taller tools in front. Organizing tools large in back would work but invariably we know things end up jumbled around.
The other thing I considered was maybe this won't be a place to store ALL my tools. Just the most common ones or for a particular job. May have to make a couple single row brackets for 1-1/2" to try.

[eltejano]

That looks good too! I like the hooks are those an extrusion profile??
One thing I noticed right away on mine was that having multiple rows could be problematic in that reaching over front row tools to grab ones in back could cause cuts or pokes to your hands, wrists etc from taller tools in front. Organizing tools large in back would work but invariably we know things end up jumbled around.
The other thing I considered was maybe this won't be a place to store ALL my tools. Just the most common ones or for a particular job. May have to make a couple single row brackets for 1-1/2" to try.

Its a shape I saw on some extruded aluminum supplier that I had modeled last year for something else.

I was going to add shelves coming down and put an aluminum sheet metal plate slightly tilted back for any dripping coolant to fall.

I have a few walls I am designing shelves and such for. Once I got this machine in my garage, I had to change my whole approach since I rarely touch the Bridgeport any more. Like putting a desk and computer in there. I will post pictures of the shelves and other holders as I design and make them. I have access to a 4x8 shopbot so making these is a cinch once they are designed.

[mountaindew]

Its a shape I saw on some extruded aluminum supplier that I had modeled last year for something else.

I was going to add shelves coming down and put an aluminum sheet metal plate slightly tilted back for any dripping coolant to fall.

I have a few walls I am designing shelves and such for. Once I got this machine in my garage, I had to change my whole approach since I rarely touch the Bridgeport any more. Like putting a desk and computer in there. I will post pictures of the shelves and other holders as I design and make them. I have access to a 4x8 shopbot so making these is a cinch once they are designed.

I look around on internet and I see some amazing shops. Everyone is different and has different needs. I like to keep shelving in garage/ shop at just above shoulder height and go up from there. leaves room below for roll around tool boxes, and other stuff to go against wall. I kind of go by the workstation concept. Always fun to see how people arrange their work spaces and how they change over time.
here are a few pictures on my work areas and tool storage racks.

I use simple 12 tool per rack in a 3 x 4 layout they don't get to heavy they set on workstation top or they also slide into shelf racks above that area.



I make custom racks for just about everything.
Different collet racks.





Even little for little tools like bit drivers




Of course you need mood lighting I put led task lights on each roll around tool box / workstation.



My shop is very small so I cram tools into every spot i can find.



My shop is always changing. fun to look back at old pics and how it looks now.

[Paul-JB]

Looks like a nice setup there surrounded by "command central" with all the stuff you need to work in reach.
Putting the tormach monitor and peripherals on the roll cart is something I thought of but never followed thru on. Having it on the swing arm from tormach isn't bad but sometimes it would be nice to be able to move completely out of the way. Agree keeping the floor space around the machine clear or quickly accessible is key. Especially in the case like yours in a garage where moving things around could be a necessity.
Curious where you procure the acrylic and did you need to buy a full 4x8?

[MichaelHenry]

I made this little tool caddy that hangs off the chip tray on my enclosure-less 1100. It holds 10 tools and can be located within arm's reach of the spindle. 10 tools is enough for all of my jobs so far and it makes for a nice manual tool changer carousel.

[kstrauss]

I did sometime similar but put the small tool holder at the right end of my 770 table. Material is a plastic cutting board from Wally Mart.

[mountaindew]

Looks like a nice setup there surrounded by "command central" with all the stuff you need to work in reach.
Putting the tormach monitor and peripherals on the roll cart is something I thought of but never followed thru on. Having it on the swing arm from tormach isn't bad but sometimes it would be nice to be able to move completely out of the way. Agree keeping the floor space around the machine clear or quickly accessible is key. Especially in the case like yours in a garage where moving things around could be a necessity.
Curious where you procure the acrylic and did you need to buy a full 4x8?

Acrylic depending on grade and thickness can be expensive.

There are a number of places. brands and grades can vary widely. I use Chemcast brand and buy mostly large amounts. Best price for easy ship acrylic material is freckleface.com. They have all sizes from 1x1 to 4x8. from 1/8 to 1" thick. funny name but I have purchased many sheets from them.
Hope this helps.

[Paul-JB]

Thanks I will check it out. I know McMaster sells it but probably very expensive.

[rowbare]

Paul, if there is a kitchen counter place nearby, see if they will sell you some Corian drops. It machines nicely.

bob

[smokediver576]

Here's how I did it. Super simple, movable and adjustable. I'm now on my second drawer full.

[mountaindew]

I see all these big racks and stand up workstations in big shop areas!.
I work in small slot with everything right there. All I do is pre cut a pile of stock for the parts I plan to make and set in tray on or next to fixture table -tool box on right. That is where I fixture all stock and set and measure tool offsets and machining results. All tools used in programs I place in order along the bottom row of all those trays where the control puck, keyboard and PP display is stationed . foot pedal is on floor between that and pcnc1100 on left. With convenient air for blowing of chips and brushes I can and did set and make all the parts in the below picture with out standing up once lazy im besides my left foot has been hurting for a while now. Tv is on exact same monitor pivot mounted on the other side of shop. I can turn around and watch tv while long machine ops are going or fixture more material in extra fixtures and collets.

Easy simple its even at eye level so setting offsets is fast. Edit: With path pilot these days and using a 5c collet system You can make piles of small parts. Just turn on machine home it. midi g01 f50 x0 y0 witch is g54 in preset offset page and centered over 5c collet in vice. Then I just set to tool #9 a 1/2 carbide endmill. load program midi m3 run cutter down to stock. touch it mill off top and zero z. m5 run up look at program load first tool on bottom of rack. and run. I dont even use the expensive Hamier probe on the rack or jog around and find anything. easy fast in my case. Just a method I use everyone works differently. Simple enough that I can get up and make a part anytime I want to in very little time



Simple parts




Having big work spaces is not always that better.



I noted in another thread about rubber floor mats they were for the rest of my shop

[BIG IGG]

Very nice set-up

what kind of vise are those?

I see all these big racks and stand up workstations in big shop areas!.
I work in small slot with everything right there. All I do is pre cut a pile of stock for the parts I plan to make and set in tray on or next to fixture table -tool box on right. That is where I fixture all stock and set and measure tool offsets and machining results. All tools used in programs I place in order along the bottom row of all those trays where the control puck, keyboard and PP display is stationed . foot pedal is on floor between that and pcnc1100 on left. With convenient air for blowing of chips and brushes I can and did set and make all the parts in the below picture with out standing up once lazy im besides my left foot has been hurting for a while now. Tv is on exact same monitor pivot mounted on the other side of shop. I can turn around and watch tv while long machine ops are going or fixture more material in extra fixtures and collets.

Easy simple its even at eye level so setting offsets is fast. Edit: With path pilot these days and using a 5c collet system You can make piles of small parts. Just turn on machine home it. midi g01 f50 x0 y0 witch is g54 in preset offset page and centered over 5c collet in vice. Then I just set to tool #9 a 1/2 carbide endmill. load program midi m3 run cutter down to stock. touch it mill off top and zero z. m5 run up look at program load first tool on bottom of rack. and run. I dont even use the expensive Hamier probe on the rack or jog around and find anything. easy fast in my case. Just a method I use everyone works differently. Simple enough that I can get up and make a part anytime I want to in very little time



Simple parts




Having big work spaces is not always that better.



I noted in another thread about rubber floor mats they were for the rest of my shop