RDSI, thanks for the info. My fan kit is now being shipped and while I'm at it I will replace the old belt with a Fenner. I know some people don't fancy the Fenners, but I've had one on my Lagun Mill for several years ant really like it.
Is the 1100-3 drive belt cross section A/13, B/17 or something else?
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RDSI, thanks for the info. My fan kit is now being shipped and while I'm at it I will replace the old belt with a Fenner. I know some people don't fancy the Fenners, but I've had one on my Lagun Mill for several years ant really like it.
I think the problem with v-belts is that they develop a shape memory from the last rest point and this causes vibration. The link belt is not continuous and is not capable of shape set memory. Link belts do require a break-in period to settle the links.
I use the Fenner (link) belt to reduce vibration. A V belt has a joint in them and this causes some vibration. The Fenner or link belt is noisy if tightened too tight and they take awhile to wear in, once they do there isnt much noise associated with using them.
mike sr
I've used twist belts on all my wood working tools and really like them. But they are not supposed to be run in reverse according to the company. Has this proven to be a problem for anyone? On the other hand, I don't recall ever putting my Tormach in reverse, except when it was new to verify that it worked that way.
Terry
I have used a Fenner Belt on my 1100 for about 5 years. I endured the Vee Belt for a few months before changing. The Vee belt had a coarse splice and developed a bump where it had set and vibrated and flopped like a beheaded chicken.
I think that a premium Gates or equal belt would have eliminated most of this but I have always had better service using linked belts. I first started the link belt experience with a Cone Pulley Lathe Headstock. To replace a one piece belt on these machines the spindle must be pulled, the link belt gets around this quite nicely.
Since then I have used them on everything and find they are quieter and vibrate less than any other belt I have tried. I keep a roll of links and just peel off what is required. They squawk a little until the sides polish up and then they are silent.
In my opinion the direction of rotation is another study of "Theory verses Reality". In Theory the direction of rotation important, in Reality the Belt don't care.
gary
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...1&d=1483678301
I kind of suspected it was as you found it to be. Also, buying by the roll is much cheaper than individual belts.
Terry
Where do you find a 3V or SPZ link belt? I can't seem to find one. I have a 3L link belt but the profile wont allow it to seat fully in the pulley groove.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fenner-Driv...YAAOSwDlBTwVUu
This is what I used on mine, still running strong............
mike sr
I am running the same one.. but I paid a bit more through amazon (5 feet though).. Thats a good price! I always forget to check ebay..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's been a few years, and it was before most companies did the internet sales thing, but I bought a roll, I believe about 25 feet for about the same amount as that Amazon price.
The company was Baltimore Belting, but I just checked and their website has nothing but a front page and a phone number.
Terry
I'm using the Fenner 3L on my 1100-2. That's a 3/8" wide belt, smaller than A (1/2") or B(5/8"). Doubt the pulley has changed in the series 3.
Thanks for your help. Got the belt installed and works awesome!