Zeroing Precisely

[LenMcC]

We are cutting perforated aluminum (that is diamond-shaped, similar to expanded metal) following the path of the perforations to eliminate jagged edges, which requires fairly precise zeroing of the torch on a node (or intersection) of the perforation. This is not easy using only an eyecrometer. Any tips for making this easier? I think my best idea has been to make a cone with a hole in the base that I could slip onto the torch tip while I zero it, kind of like an edge finder.

[cam1]

Hi: You could rig up a laser pointer to project a dot (dollar store variety). The pointer could be mounted on an angle somewhere on the Z axis so that it travels with the torch.
The dot will still be reasonably circular , even if the laser is tipped on a slight angle.
Option #2 would be to create a fence, that is plasma cut from some scrap.Set your 0,0, and cut out the fence from the scrap (don't move it after).Now you can lay your parts into the corner of the fence,and maintain a repeatable part 0.

regards

regards

[LenMcC]

cam1, good suggestions. i was actually making a fence for the long side of the table and waiting on some hardware to finish it. because of how we'll be cutting the material, we'll leave the short side open so we can slide the material down. we had also considered a laser pointer. another guy here ordered one of those cross hair lasers that are meant for drill presses, so the lasers can be mounted offset from the actual zero and will project onto the real zero. we'll see how it works! thanks again!

[LenMcC]

since the last post, we bolted our fence (1/8x1.5" angle) along the 10ft length of the table, then ran the torch in a straight line to cut an edge colinear with the travel path. that did NOT work well. the edge came out all wavy from heat warpage. we had it bolted at 5 places. i wanted to bolt it at 10, but i was lazy. when i unbolted the fence, it sprung into a big warped arc.

for round 2, we basically did the same thing but didn't cut the fence. we planned to shim the fence straight, but it ended up not needing shims. we sawed a thin notch in the fence at 0, so we can align our material properly. and we installed homing switches to automate the torch positioning.

so far so good!

[cam1]

Try not to cut the edge continuous.It could look like it has square teeth, or bump up the thickness (1/4 could work).

regards