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It may not be the motor, if that is the part number of the motor, it looks like a Electrocraft DC brushed, if so try the motor on a automotive battery and see if it runs smoothly in both directions.
Al.
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Hey Guys, I am working on getting an older Techno Isel CNC machine up and running. It seems that I have one bad motor. The motor is smooth when I rotate it by hand but under power it clunks as if it has a dead spot. It jumps forward about .200” each revolution.
Does anyone happen to have a spare motor they can sell me? I called Techno but they want 400 for a new one plus shipping and being a teacher with almost no budget this is an issue.
Does anyone happen to have a spare motor they might be able to sell me.
PN 0242-02-008
Model Number E242
Make – techno Isel
Blue and silver label
Cheers
Rodney
It may not be the motor, if that is the part number of the motor, it looks like a Electrocraft DC brushed, if so try the motor on a automotive battery and see if it runs smoothly in both directions.
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design (Skype Avail).
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
look into kellingcnc I have one of their motors in use and it seems to work fine, I have started using the encoders availble from automation direct, they work well and seem seald fairly well against dust. thy also have ball bearing mounts.
also check your brushes and give it a sniff test see if it's burnt.
MotionTek are in Canada, they should have an equivalent, did you try the 12v test?
Brushed DC Servo motor Encoder driver Gecko G320 Viper 95 CNC KITS Canada USA Australia
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design (Skype Avail).
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
You were right, hooked up a 12v supply today and the motor runs smooth as silk.
When I got the machine 2 wires, small black and a small red were disconnected from the pins. I picked up some new pins crimped and reinstalled them. Not sure if it is the root cause of my issue but it is the same motor that I am now having trouble with. The encoder seems to be the issue but I am not certain if it can be removed. It seems to be press fit on the shaft.
Does anyone know how to take this off such that I do not damage the glass scale?
Techno has used a couple different encoders, all can be removed. remove the black plastic cap. look over the encoder and see if the glass/ plastic plate is damaged, or full of dust. if it is cracked the encoder is toast, if it is just dusty blow it out gently with dry air, and try again. if you are convinced the encoder is the problem ther will be one of two size set screws in the hub that mounts the wheel to the shaft. there is probably a little pull out tray on one side of the encoder at the bass pull this out then release the set screw and un bolt the encoder and see if yiour can remopve it with out totally destroying it, I haven't yet. once the encoder is off carefully install a new one. consult your wioreing on the techno literature and on the replacement encoder. make sure they are wired correctly. yu need a 1000 line differential encoder with 5v you should have a a' b b' i i' =5 v and 0v or gnd.
I got it off, there is a small chip in the glass on one part of the encoder. I would suspect this is the root cause of my failure mode.
That was a standard encoder fitted to Electrocraft from Renco, they are owned by Heidenhain now and have trimmed the line down quite a bit, so you may have to go with a sub, although there are many other through hole encoder suppliers.Originally Posted by ontariocnc
The chip may be the problem although glass discs do not get chipped normally, you could try powering the encoder and test for voltage from common to each of the A,/A & B,/B outputs.
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design (Skype Avail).
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
My electrical or electronic experience is limited. Is the wiring the same on the like encoders. On my current one I have about seven wires coming out of it. Is this typical or will I need to change the wiring based on my configuration.
Normally on these encoders there is 8 conductors, +5v, Common, A,/A, B, /B, Z, /Z.
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design (Skype Avail).
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
I have been playing around with the encoder trying to get it going without having to buy a new one. I put it all back together and must have done something wrong. When I plugged it back in the machine took off like a rocket and slammed into the end stop. I remove the motor and it runs wide open in the direction of my choice but will not stop. I suspect that I have further damaged the encoder or possibly I have not installed it correctly. I took it apart today and can see nothing that looks wrong. Anyone have any idea what might be going on? I would hazard a guess that it is not reading the encoder.
yep classic toasted encoder runaway, now you gotta get a new one.
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