CNC X2 -> Taig upgrade?

[sansbury]

Guys,

Any chance I could have my thread back? I've only gotten 1 meaningful reply so far

[kanton]

sansbury,

I am sorry I hijacked your thread. I became excited when I found out that the Taig's work envelope could be expanded so much. I thought the information would be useful to you as well.

[sansbury]

No worries, Kanton. I'm mostly interested though in what I could get out of a stock Taig. If I replace my X2, it's not going to be with another project.

[kanton]

sansbury,

I called the people at Taig twice today and discovered somethings that may be of interest to you.

The CNC mill (3 1/2 x 15 1/2 inch table) with ER 16 Spindle has maximum travels of: X = 9.5", Y = 5.5", Z = 6.0" .

The CNC mill (3 1/2 x 18 1/2 inch table) with ER 16 Spindle has maximum travels of: X = 12", Y = 5.5", Z = 6.0".

They use acme screws on all axes and are not interested at this time of making longer ones although you can make a simple spacer to increase Y travel to about 6".

I was told you could unbolt the Z axis and move it upward about 6" to increase the table to spindle distance but the Z travel would still be 6".

Hijack over!

[awetmore]

I had a manual X2, and I have a CNC'd Taig. So it isn't exactly answering your questions, but I guess it is close. I had the X2 for about 6 months before selling it, and I've had the Taig for about 6 weeks. I also own a small knee mill (Grizzly G3102).

The Taig doesn't seem that much lighter. Rigidity is similar, in that I can make similar depth cuts in steel or aluminum with the Taig that I could with the X2. Places where the Taig saves weight (such as using an aluminum table instead of cast iron) don't really add useful rigidity to the X2.

I adjusted the brass nuts when I first bought my (used) Taig and setup backlash compensation once under EMC2. I'd need to check my settings, but I think I have around 0.0015 backlash on X and 0.002 on Y.

I'm using an older SuperCam controller with EMC2. I can do rapids at 30ipm, but 25ipm is safer. In aluminum I normally make 0.025" cuts using a 3/16" 2-flute bit at 7-8ipm and 6500ish rpm. These are safe numbers that work reliably for me all day long, not the maximum possible. My steppers are around 230oz/in torque. My power supply is 24 volts. My controller is halfstepping only, not microstepping.

If you buy a used one make sure that it comes with the 1/4HP motor, or budget $100 to upgrade. I didn't pay attention to that when I was buying and quickly upgraded. The old stock 1/8HP motor stalls pretty easily.

I'm very happy with the Taig. I use it for prototyping, not production. 90% of what I'm cutting is aluminum, but I'm glad that it can work for me with steel when I need it to.

In direct comparison to the X2 these are the things that I like better about the Taig:
* The gibs are easier to adjust. I really prefer tapered gibs to ones with multiple set screws.
* Lower backlash
* Increased Y is really helpful
* Modular design is easy to adapt (like you can easily make a CNC lathe with a small number of parts)
* T-slots on the head make it easy to mount accessories like a mister
* The drive system is much quieter
* Higher torque in lower RPMs than the X2

I think that the only benefit for the X2 is lower cost. The Taig looks less substantial, but seems to outperform the X2 where it matters.

[kanton]

awetmore,

You stated "* Modular design is easy to adapt (like you can easily make a CNC lathe with a small number of parts)"

Is there a set of instructions about how to do this?

Thanks.

[awetmore]

There is at least one video on youtube.

Put the headstock and spindle on the milling table.
Put a Taig collet or 3-jaw chuck in the headstock.
Buy the Taig lathe tool holder and mount it on the Z-axis.

Use the Y to center the headstock under the lathe tool.
Z to move the tool into the material.
X to move the material left and right.

This doesn't get you a tailstock or offer you any way to use one really, but it makes it possible to do simple lathe activities without buying another tool.

alex