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Old 06-15-2009, 02:40 PM
 
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Flat Table ?

What do you guys use for a flat table?

I'm thinking of something around 4x8 feet.

I thought of using 3/4" MDF on top of a bed of 4x4 (the MDF would ease out the grade, but not necessarily make it flat.

Getting a 1/2" thick 4'x8' plate of A36 (a bit expensive and I' not sure if the steel would be really flat).

Getting a granite slab (expensive, around $1000+, and brittle).

Getting a 1/8" (stainless ?) steel top over a 2x2 square steel tubular frame (don't have a metal saw to cut the angles and don't have a flat surface to weld the 2x2's square to begin with).

Right now the only thing that I can kinda trust is flat is a medium size table saw top.

Weight is not really a problem as long as I can move it with a pallet jack.

Ideas?
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Old 06-15-2009, 07:41 PM
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Hi Ed,
I have my SX3 on a very nice Newport steel table with like 4" square steel tube legs. That being said, the coolant base I made is comprised of like 4 layers of 3/8" or 1/2" plywood glued up and mounted to the surrounding base that is fiberglassed. I think you will do fine with a sturdy wood bench, and I have mounted aluminum discs about 4" in diameter for the leveling feet to sit on. Being level should not be a big problem as the machine has 4 leveling feet that can be used to correct that. Just make sure the constuction will support the weight of the machine well without any sag or wobble. Diagonal support rails implemented on each side should make a wooden table very stable.
This way you can spend the cash saved for tools and accessories?? Good luck and I hope this helps. It would be great to see some pictures when you get it done.

My machine:

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Old 06-16-2009, 07:29 AM
 
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Nice!

You had an awesome table to use as a base. What a find!

I have done some search and played with some different designs. The table for the mill is becoming its own project instead of a minor aside. So I'm not sure I should tackle it now.

What I was looking for was a metal workshop table for assembly of projects and where I could trust it to be flat and trust it to be leveled. On one of its sides I would do a platform just like you did for the mill and add a plexiglas enclosure as others have done, and perhaps you already have.

After some searching the design I'm favoring is a 3/4" MDF on top of a 1/4" plate of A36 over a frame of 4x1.5x3/16 (5.4#) channel with legs of either the same channel or 3 inch schedule 40 pipe. This was suggested in this thread http://www.thesheetmetalshop.com/PNp...ic-t-1571.html . They also suggest to leave the open side of the channel to the outside so that you can better clamp to the table. The materials, as far as steel goes, are accessible. The 4x8x1/4 plate costs $182, each 20 foot run of the channel is $72 and a 10 foot run of the pipe is $93 (if you want to use pipe for the legs). Besides using the channel for the outside of the table (like is shown on your own table) I would like 3 transversal runs at 2, 4, and 6 feet. I would not use casters, instead I would have another run of the channel around the bottom linking the 4 legs so to be able to pick it up with a pallet jack. I would level it with shims. If someone does want casters, that same thread has 2 excellent suggestions. The first is to use 6 casters instead of 4, that is two stationary in the center and a swivels at each end. That provides a lot more control than all swivels and more mobility than a pair of swivels on one end and a pair of stationary on the other. The second suggestion is to have the cross members at the bottom way high so not to pinch someone's foot or ankle when you have one person pushing and one pulling.

The total cost for the steel, including 3 runs of 20ft for the channel delivered is just under $650 (http://www.metalsdepot.com price). I could probably tackle it just with a grinder, although a saw would certainly make things easier. So as you can see this becomes a whole project in itself and we did not even begin the support for the mill and the enclosure. *sigh*

I think I'll wait a bit...
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Old 06-16-2009, 07:50 AM
 
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Actually I was just looking at your table, and how to make one kinda like it, but using cheap materials:

20ft 3X1-3/8X3/16 (4.1#) channel $55.00
4x4 1/4-inch A36 plate $114.24
10ft 2-inch schedule 40 pipe $45.20
Shipping $98.23
Total $312.67 (add $70 for square legs instead of round ones, and another $55 to have cross members on the legs)

Hmmm...
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:48 AM
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I made mine out of 2x4" wood:
















Materials list: http://peu.net/mods/WorkbenchMateriales.xls
Solidworks plans: http://peu.net/mods/WorkbenchPEU.zip

I took the photos after finishing the tables about two years ago, the mill & lathe weren't even working at that moment, now they are filled with tools, parts etc... a mess

Wood was joined with Gorilla glue and then they were screwed together, used more than 100 #6 2.5" wood screws per workbench. This glue is awesome, you apply a super fine layer with a spatula, damp the other piece of wood and clamp, after a couple of hours it goes 4x its initial volume and is superstrong.

Note on the gorilla glue: use gloves, don't be dumb like me, the stuff took about 5 days to go off my hands... and its black when dry... and when not in use keep the bottle upside down, this allowed me to use it after years, otherwise it dries.

They feel very solid. Used 3/8" x 5" bolts two flat washers and a split washer at every joint (8 per table)


Pablo
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Old 06-16-2009, 06:49 PM
 
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You gave me an idea, will post pics later
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Old 06-22-2009, 10:56 AM
 
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Originally Posted by peu View Post
I made mine out of 2x4" wood
...
Pablo
So... Okay, here we go...

I got most of the wood, the bolts and the Gorilla glue like you suggested.

I'm actually laughing as I type this because it turned into a monster, but I'm determined to see it through if just as a conversation piece

The "thing" will take fifteen 4x4's and five 4x6's plus a top of 40x96" made out of 3/4" MDF. The MDF will sit on top of a "deck" made out of those 4x4's and 4x6's. I picked pressure treat wood (50 lbs/ft3) because it was on sale at HD. This "monster" should weight around 700 lbs... You should be able to drive over it without a squeak :lol:

Anyway, it is totally out of proportion, but it is fun!!!

I'm missing a few 4x4's which I should get later on this week. The little table will have two 4x6's at the bottom to be picked up by a pallet jack.

I'll post pics as the project goes on
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Old 06-23-2009, 09:36 PM
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Hi Ed,
It sounds like this bench is going to be plenty strong enough. I will be coming back to see the pictures when you get started putting it together.

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Old 07-04-2009, 07:11 PM
 
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Okay...

It started! Two 4x6's and nine 4x4's put together with your favorite... gorilla glue. I started sanding the underside with a 4" deck/floor sander to even it up a bit, but I need to get a couple of new sanding belts. Which I'm doing in 5 min.

Next I'll screw a couple of 2x4 cross members in middle section and a couple of 4x6 with the 6-side upright on the sides. I need to fill the gaps with some sort of epoxy compound as the cross members get screwed. Then I start building the sides with more 4x6's and bolting the legs to those. Finally the bottom two 4x6's going all the way along the length of the table that allow me to pick it up with a pallet jack. We somehow flip it right side up and trim the ends with a circular saw, sand the top evening it out and screw a piece of 3/4 MDF on top of everything.

I'm trusting this glue to keep it together, if not... there will be trouble

It is heavy enough that I can no longer lift it, but we will be able to use a forklift if we have to :lol:
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Old 07-04-2009, 08:40 PM
 
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Well... bad news. The gorilla glue did not hold. It is supposed to cure in 2hrs and I gave it way more than that. The wood that was under tension separated and it was easy to take it all apart. It is really a water activated foam. It will not be too difficult to remove it completely. I'll go back to fasteners now.
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Old 07-05-2009, 11:09 PM
 
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I put it back together again after removing the foam glue. This time I did screws and glue.

Each 4x4 is glued (Titebond 3) and screwed (seven 5-1/2" screws) to its predecessor and to the cross members (two 5-1/2" screws). Had to stop because I run out of washers, but everything is coming out awesome so far

After that last piece of the table top underside goes in we start building the sides and add the table legs.
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Old 07-06-2009, 12:06 AM
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Hi Ed,
The table you are building looks like it will be very strong! The work you put into it should be well worth it. Thanks for keeping us updated on your progress.

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