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#13
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| I am wondering since the damage is apparently already done and I can't seem to locate the cause(all the CB's look OK), would it be crazy to think I could use the X,Y, & Z axis with a secondary spindle mounted on the right side to do a job that is waiting? The axis all jog a reference Ok so I was thinking I could utilize the machine with a secondary spindle to get this job done. Otherwise it will be some time before I can find the fault and get the original spindle fixed or replaced. I want to finish the job ASAP but don't want to cause any more damage to the machine. It is just 2 halves of a plastic prototype and it should not take long to run them. Seems like a 'loaded' crazy question but it is a dilema and I almost started to run the parts already. Any advice welcomed! Back to the toolpaths.
__________________ Regards, Wes |
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#14
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| If you take the cast top off, it is probably not that hard to jury rig a motor with a flat or even V belt running the existing spindle. A motor fault will not stop you using the X-Y-Z drives. For safety remove the fuse from the motor PCB. It is possible the fault is not in the motor PCB. With the front switch selected for CNC operation of the motor, when Mach3 commands the motor to run with say M3 S2000 the relay on the main PCB should turn on. When you hit escape, it should go off. I am going back to run another 12 hours of a fine engraving job... I will watch this space every hour or so. Hope you can see in the dark because it is still yesterday! (2U)
__________________ Super X3. 3600rpm. Three ways to fix things: The right way, the other way, and maybe your way, which is possibly a faster wrong way. |
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#15
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| Hi Neil, Thanks a lot for taking the time to help me work thru this situation. I have already rigged a mount for a RotoZip type motor on the right side of the spindle head. Since the material is plastic I figured it would work fine as long as the 25,000 or so RPM doesn't generate too much heat and melt the plastic(maybe air assist?). I originally was going to make wooden patterns and cast an aluminum prototype but since I have a couple pieces of plastic available thought I can save some time by cutting the actual parts from plastic. I may have to make molds for an injection plastic final part but this should be good for the prototype, and much lighter than aluminum. Thanks again for the tips and I like the idea for using the original spindle, it might work well for a high speed alternative with a pulley counter-shaft type of arrangement. It sounds like you are keeping busy down there, another 12 hours engraving? I like engraving jobs too! OK, I'm off to see if I can get it set up and started. If I don't hurry it will be dark here soon too! Thanks again, and I'll let you know how things turn out.
__________________ Regards, Wes Last edited by metalworkz; 08-26-2008 at 11:10 PM. |
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#16
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| I quit for tonight. I got the job set-up and ran it to a depth of about .125" in the pocket of the hand grip and about half of the outside profile on the hand grip. The material is a white polymer, and looks like polypropolene. I'm not sure what the best speeds and feeds are for this but the 25,000 RPM and most of the feeds I tried seemed to be generating a bit too much heat. Will have to try something different tomorrow and perhaps a different cutting tool. I don't have many choices as the motor only has 1/8" and 1/4" collets, but I need to use a small bit for most of the tight corners. Might have to use an inside profile with the .125"Dia and then pocket the rest out with the .250" dia tool. I took some pictures but with the white material you can't even make out the toolpaths. I'll try to finish it up tomorrow evening. Regards,
__________________ Regards, Wes |
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#17
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| I was able to finish the profiling of the plastic prototype with the add-on RotoZip motor, and I wanted to thank everyone for their posts and helpful information. A special thank you goes to Neil for not only the electrical tips and guidance but also the suggestions for using a temporary spindle until my Syil SX3 spindle is fixed. I have noticed my E-stop switch is not opearable since the spindle motor problem and I will need to check it and make sure it is not faulty along with the components on the motor spindle board before moving forward with the spindle motor troubleshooting. I was unable to change the settings to get the E-stop to work, so I'm wondering if the switch itself might have failed? (Mach3 Error: External E-stop requested?) Will have to test it. Regards,
__________________ Regards, Wes |
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