Sx3 Power draw added

[Rainman229]

Well I added a power draw bar to my Sx3, Thanks to Hoss.

I made a few modifications to his design to adapt it to an x3. Since his was designed for a x2. But his setup is easy adapt.

http://www.rainman229.com/images/web/tools/DSC_1589.JPG

http://www.rainman229.com/images/web/tools/DSC_1590.JPG

The side frames where extended about 1.5 inch's and the top was made 2 inch's wider to straddle the head of an x3.

Now to work on the extension spacer for the head to get my work area where a want it. I know I could cut down the Ball screw to do it. But would rather have the little extra play room. Once i get this done i can work on getting the stationary tool changer setup.

Is it me or has anyone else notice the sx3 home x is the wrong way? Normally home should be in the - not the +. Might just be me.

[iGG1e]

Very nice job. I plan to do one for mine, but being in the UK some of the bits aren't as readily available off the shelf as they are in the US.

As for the homing, thinking about it I've got X and Y going negative and Z positive.

[Rainman229]

Originally Posted by iGG1e Very nice job. I plan to do one for mine, but being in the UK some of the bits aren't as readily available off the shelf as they are in the US. As for the homing, thinking about it I've got X and Y going negative and Z positive.

Well worth the trouble of finding the parts. If you have issues finding the parts in the UK. I could find them for you here (US) and ship them off to you. All for what it would cost me and shipping.

And on the homing. My X is +. Y is - ,and Z + form factory

[Martin Long]

Do you have the drawings and parts list available for the power draw bar?

Martin

[Rainman229]

Every thing is posted here on Hoss's website http://www.hossmachine.info/projects_7.html

[iGG1e]

Originally Posted by Rainman229 Well worth the trouble of finding the parts. If you have issues finding the parts in the UK. I could find them for you here (US) and ship them off to you. All for what it would cost me and shipping.

Thanks for the offer, very kind of you. Hopefully I'll be able to source the various parts 'locally'.

Are there any changes you'd make now you've adapted it for the SX3 from Hoss's original dimensions?

[Rainman229]

Originally Posted by iGG1e Thanks for the offer, very kind of you. Hopefully I'll be able to source the various parts 'locally'. Are there any changes you'd make now you've adapted it for the SX3 from Hoss's original dimensions?

Theres a quite a few changes i would do now that i see how and what it does.
I'll be working on new plans to adapt it to a x3 so it looks like it was meant to be there. After looking at on the machine i see other ways of making it. and being cheaper in material. I'll let you know when i have it all drawn out.

[neilw20]

Rainman229.
Nice work. My SX3 moves in the positive direction in X,Y and Z for referencing.
That is head goes up, table comes forward then table moves left.

I see you still have the upside down original short gas strut.
Here are my mods:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpo...54&postcount=3
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpo...11&postcount=4

After using this for a while, and having to drill some 0.25mm holes using solid carbide drills, slight rotation of the head with up and down movement is apparent because the strut is on one side.
I am going to get 2 struts set to 20KG and have one on each side to overcome this sideways movement. Tightening the gib only minimizes this movement to 0.1mm in X at the drill tip. That's nearly half the drill diameter !.
Now I have to drill some 0.2mm holes I must fix it. It is not much good drilling down, then having to do an interpolated X and Z move so you don't shear off the drill. I have been using the quill to do the drilling, as I can't use a peck cycle with the silly correction move. These drills are FRAGILE, but I still have not broken any. 3600RPM is a bit slow !

The small holes are being drilled after reworking/repairing air bearings in high speed PCB drilling motors. 1KW 80,000 RPM run off a VFD. 0.1Hz-3000Hz. Good fun !

Hope this is of use to you.

[Crevice Reamer]

Well done Rainman! I see you have removed the quill wheel assy. Can you give us some details and pics of that please?

CR.

[Rainman229]

Removing the Quill/drill assembly was rather easy how i did it.

There a few clips to remove to get the first section off. Then you can remove the 4 screws to remove the fine wheel housing. Then theres another c-clip to remove a worm gear. This gear needed a little prying to get off. Then once i had it all off I just took a hacksaw to the shaft to cut it flush with metal retaining plate. Then your done. You don't need the aluminum plate like i have. I only did it for the look. It serves no purpose. You can just throw shorter screws in the existing mounting holes to cover them up.

When all said and done you just need to make sure the lock is always tight.

[Crevice Reamer]

Thanks Rm! So the shaft is still in there? Cool!

CR.

[Rainman229]

Originally Posted by Crevice Reamer Thanks Rm! So the shaft is still in there? Cool! CR.

Shafts still there just cut down flush with the body. Removing it and making something new for it. Seem not to make any sense, since I would never be putting it back to the way it came.