Way Oil and Spindle Noise

[SyilAmerica]

Great pictures!

There are specific thermo stabilized greases for spindle operation. You are more than welcome to use them, but the intention was spindles traveling at over 9k rpm.

Best value would be a sythetic marine wheel bearing grease. Synthetic for the temperature stability and marine grade for the anti corrosion qualities. What dictates longevity and performance is cleanliness. Bearings don’t like dirt.

The bearings are good ones, and will serve you well. If you do want to change them, there are a myrid of choices. 32907X by NTN bearing are an upgraded bearing that costs as little as $42.

The specs are: 30mm Bore, 55mm OD, Width 13mm.

I suspect the the majority of the sounds anyone hears from these spindles are coming from the upper one. Part number 6006. They are a common part and have some spacing inbetween the balls in the race. (kind of sounds like a roller skate bearing). High grade ZZ (double stainless steel shielded) cost as little as $20.

You will notice that with the thicker grease the spindle is smoother when rotated by hand.

Nice work.

[BrendaEM]

At higher RPM's, I wonder if the spindle is wide enough that balance could affect vibration. If, so, I would assume that a good electric motor shop or turbine hobbyist could dynamically spin balance the spindle, if they knew where to remove material, and where not to.Perhaps the gear/sprocket that drives the spindle could be out of balance too.

[NC Cams]

Noise from any bearing is usually caused by either damage or dirt.

The use of incorrect force (hammer or press) will brinnell the bearings thus ruining them. Dirt/debris will cut the rolling elements and accelerate the demise of the part.

Once a bearing is scratched, damaged or cut, it does not heal over time - only a new part will fix the noise.

A bearing should either slip on the shaft or, in the event of an intentional press fit, if you freeze the shaft and heat the bearing on a hot plate, the parts will drop together. You do NOT ever use a hamme or a press to install spindle bearings.

A synthetic grease is good for sustained high speed use. Don't over grease as this can cause ball skidding or overheating due to viscous drag. Usually a 25% cavity fill is more than adequate for high speed use.

Kluber makes real good/expensive spindle lubes. The OEM's suggestion of a marine wheel bearing grease would work for typical general purpose use.

When you reassemble the taper, you want to assemble it with 0.000" end play. I do NOT subscribe to the torque it then loosen it method of adjusting a taper.

Why? Too easy to skid and scuff the rollers unless you're simultaneously turning and tightening the shaft while torquing it.

You're better off slowly creeping up on the tightening process as in tighten a bit, rotate to reseat the rollers then recheck axial clearance then repeat until you get 0.000" travel in BOTH axial directions.

When you get O.000" end play under load, you're at optimum preload fo minimum friction/max stiffness for a taper.

More preload will help stiffness BUT you'll pay a bit more in friction. Go a bit too far and you'll brinnel the bearings or scuff he ends of the rollers where they ride against the flange.

When you get a taper adjusted with 0.000" end play, there will feel a drag but it should still rotate glassy/silky smooth with no binding or momentary sticking. If it sticks, there's probably a high spot someplace that needs to be found/fixed.

Take your time and you'll be rewarded with a smooth, quite running spindle....