I have purchase a 4axis CNC converted SIEG SUPER X3 from "SyiL"

[syil]

Originally Posted by ata Hi...I have purchase a new 4-Axis Super X3 by Syil China... I hope I get no problemo with it...:-)

we will do our best to make good products for you.thank you~

[LN-JET]

Hello Syil China and US,
Have you sold any to the Scandinavian countries or Northern Europe?
Where is the best place to order for me, China directly?

Happy new year, and best regards

Lars

[syil]

Originally Posted by LN-JET Hello Syil China and US, Have you sold any to the Scandinavian countries or Northern Europe? Where is the best place to order for me, China directly? Happy new year, and best regards Lars

We sell to the finland,and we have a distirbutor in finland www.syil.fi but those day they do not have stock.
right now we just serach a Scandinavian distributor.you can place machine from us directly.
thank you
Syil china

[vulcan]

Originally Posted by syil Thanks for Mr Ronny and Mr Lou Support.we will make best for your.we will also post some X2,X1,CNC set soonly. also,we will update some CNC working Video for you,but it is so big hardly to post on the web... by the way,we will upload to our web of video soonly.then every one can download at www.syil.cn

Hi England calling
I am glad to read that the super x3 cnc is at last getting through to you u guys over there- I am watching syil as they have promised to get the x3 sent to England in the near fiture.
Reading some of the replies I am reading about the four axis optional but have not heard or read about it in any of the promotional stuff from syil.
please let us in on the secret

[Green0]

So I had a major breakthrough.

I just got back from a school with the Army and I had scheduled for my electrical guy to come out ASAP. So he was out Tuesday, and we installed the new transformer on the existing board, and it worked.

The machine runs, but the X and Y movement are flipped. The spindle comes on with G-Code commands, but the RPM isn't in synch with the tach on the case. The coolant isn't working, but I think it's hooked up properly, so maybe that's a program fix too?

I put a digital indicator on the XY andZ and fine tuned the motor tuning and it tracks within .0005 in .7". Backlash was X .001" Y .002" and z .009". It turned out that 998steps per inch seemed to make A360 turn the 4th axis 360 degrees, and .25 of backlash brought it within about .003" of runout at two inches, which is fine by me.

once it's zeroed it likes to go around to 360 and then come back to 10, instead of going straight over to 10. I think that's Mach not understanding that the axis is a rotary table.

[syil]

anyway Mr Green0,your machine run...
have a good time with it,any questions let us konw.
Xushuo
Syil China

[rogerx3]

I too have orderd and sx3 mill with 4th axis in r8 from syil uk. I was informed of the speed controller relay and digital hight gauge problems by hugh, and found my self paying in full, exspecting delivery about 5th december. I am very very excited and cannot wait. reading any and all postings on cnczone relating to these problems. I thank every one for the bulk of information posted on this site to speed up and over come these problems asap. I still think it is a brilliant machine, value for money and syil honest and help full (hugh of Syil uk). I feel well informed enough to be up and running by crimbo.
thank you every one.

[jetpig1]

Wow, that's the same indexer I bought to convert to a 4th axis, exactly. I skipped the worm drive and went with direct for zero backlash. I would love to know how they set hard zero on the unit, I am working on this, but a floating zero is ok if the part isn't too complicated. Hey Ronny, is that collet chuck setup a taper or a straight shank? Diameter ?

[rad45]

Hi Ronnie,
I hope you have better luck with your conversion than I did. I purchased the Sieg X3 from Sieg in Shanghai and then purchased the conversion kit of ball screws, brackets, limit switches and stuff from Syil, via their Australian agent.
It all went together well and the accuracy of the adaption parts was good. But most of the opto limit switches didn't work when installed and the two that did, failed within about two or three weeks.
A side note here. As the limit switches are optical they need power to operate them. So if you have had a problem with any area of the limit switch circuits, you will not have it at all. To get around this hiccup I've replaced all the Syil limit switches with sub-micro switches and have all six of them (in X, Y & X axes) connected up in series and the switches in Normally Closed. This way if I trip a switch or cut the wiring the same result is that the machine stops as this circuit is all now in series with the E-stop button, again a NC switch.
The second problem occurred the other evening when, after about 20 hours of use, a ball in the Z axis ball nut cracked and the chip jammed the screw in the nut.
You all know the rest of the story, the axis lost steps and destroyed the part I was making in the 10 seconds it took me to hit the E-stop.
The Z screw has gone in the bin to be replaced by a complete new screw and nut assembley.
As soon as I have a few more pennies in the plastic pig, I am starting to think that it might be smart to replace the X & Y axes screws to be sure. What do other list members think??

Russell Dunn
temporarily in AnShan, PR China.
but usually at
Perth, Western Australia.

[neilw20]

Some parallel ports require more current to pull them low than the opto can supply. I never had this problem on HP Vectra all on Mother Board port, but when I changed to a faster PC the referencing was no longer accurate.
It turns out that the opto on current is not sufficient to reliably pull the port pin low, not because of the 2.2K pullup on the BOB, but because of the port on the PC.
I overcame this problem by putting an emitter follower BC177 PNP transistors between the BOB and the PC on the limit switch pins.

Collector goes to ground, base goes to the BOB (the pin which connects directly to the opto) and the emitter goes to the PC.

No extra resistors or any other parts are need for each switch.
MY referencing became very accurate again.

I mounted them in a short 'dongle' between the BOB socket and the cable.
The E-S signal has the same problem, and is a little unreliable at power-up, but I have not fixed this yet. Turning on fluoro light sometimes triggers E-S and I am certain that another transistor will fix this too.