want to move X4+ electrics

**groundhog719** · 09-05-2011, 09:34 PM

I'm building an enclosure for my X4+. Before I get too far I think I should move all of the electronics to a new electrical box. I'm thinking of a NEMA enclosure mounted on the stand legs. I'm going to move the faceplate (with readout, manual control and emergency stop) to the outside of the enclosure near the monitor & keyboard.

Anyone have any ideas, experience or MUST DO / DON'T DO advise? Any help moving the electronics (before I really screw it up) would really be appreciated.

Thanks
Groundhog

**syil** · 09-08-2011, 10:34 AM

what kind edtion of your x4+
let me see the back of controller.
then my engineer will advise you how to do..

**groundhog719** · 09-08-2011, 09:28 PM

Thanks!

Will this picture be OK?

**Ed from NY** · 09-09-2011, 09:05 AM

I guess my question would be why. I have a full enclosure for mine and the only moment I reach for the controls is when I'm finding an edge. The esc key is pretty much my estop. I thought about doing it many times, but in the end I did not think it was worth messing with all the cables and working on an extra box, etc. You will have enough to worry about and enough expense win the enclosure itself. Just a thought

**groundhog719** · 09-09-2011, 01:54 PM

Ed,
Probably very sound advise. However, I usually manage to avoid doing things the sound way.
1) I am using the stock pan as part of my enclosure. I am building aluminum, sloped "wings" on top of it. If I move the electrics then the back will be a solid wall instead of being split to allow for the protruding electrical enclosure.
2) I need to keep everything as small as I can. A 24"x24"x8" NEMA 1 enclosure will fit nicely on my support legs but still be ticked under the left "wing"
3) As far as moving the faceplate outside the enclosure - I just think it will look neat!

Thanks for your interest & (sound) advice though.

Groundhog

**Ed from NY** · 09-09-2011, 03:55 PM

I see, are you building an enclosure or expanding the tray? Because of the travel, an enclosure will probably be 48"x40". If you move the electronics out of the back you will save some 4-6" as you could hVe the back flat against the back wall it is not much space saved. BTW make sure to leave a good amount of space in the front for a vise and have the enclosure doors big enough to reach in. My enclosure door opens up about 3 feet wide by 3 feet tall. Also I would not have the side walls any shorter tha 40" and I would leave the top open for ventilation. Good luck

Edit: one more thing, if you are going through the trouble of building an enclosure I would ditch the pan. It is probably not a big savings of material or work.

**groundhog719** · 09-09-2011, 05:31 PM

Ed,
They say a picture is worth ... Well, definitely not my picture, but here it is anyway.

I'm adding on to the tray to make a base for the enclosure. The front will be 46" x 36" with 2 16" wide x24" high bi-fold doors (removable). The extruded framework is just 1"x1" (from FrameWorld). If the "wings" don't support the enclosure rock steady I can brace to the 2" steel tube base.

Your point on keeping the top open is taken. I was wondering what to do there. That makes it pretty easy (and cheap)!

I should have ditched the pan as you suggested, but I was too lazy to rent a hoist and move the mill another time. Instead I spent 2 weekends making asymmetrical additions. Told you I don't normally do the sound thing!

Anything other ideas or suggestions will be much appreciated (and seriously considered).

Groundhog

PS From the clutter in the pic you can see why I need to save as much room as possible.

**Ed from NY** · 09-09-2011, 09:15 PM

Make sure those doors open inwards or you will have a mess on your floor

Looks like a good project. One thing I did not do on mine and wish I had was to have easily removable sides for when you are milling something that sticks out the table. What are you using for the sides? Policarbonate? It is great to have all that light around and be able to check the machine sideways as it is working. Where are you putting the computer monitor and keyboard/mouse. Might want to consider a little shelf at tray height for that on the left side. If you have the bucks might want to think about a touch screen.

If you can, make it so that you can pick the whole thing up, coolant tank included, with a pallet jack. I would also use a coolant tank that holds some 10 gallons of coolant -- for water based coolant that is.

Take more pics as the project goes on

**groundhog719** · 09-10-2011, 01:05 AM

Ed-
Didn't think about the doors opening inward. May not be enough room to do that. If not, I may redesign the whole door system (the doors might need to be taller or the whole door moved upward anyway).

Didn't think about removable sides either. That shouldn't be too hard (haven't gotten sides or back designed yet). I was figuring on using Polycarbonate (at least for the front half) and installing small water proof florescent lights along the top and front corners.

I didn't make the frame high enough for a pallet jack. Wish I would have. It is on casters (but they are not large enough) and has adjustable leveling feet.

For some reason I'm used to the keyboard/monitor/mouse on the right. Anyway I plan on making movable, adjustable arms with the extruded aluminum and mount them on the right front corner. I'm going to use the extrusion with slots on all 4 sides so I can easily bolt stuff anywhere along the frame. I'll use a plastic filler strip on the inside to keep liquid and chips out of the slots.

I have room for a coolant tank & pump behind the tool box. Think I figured on 8 gallons.

I guess I should start a thread on the whole enclosure project. Maybe when I get back from vacation.

Your prior experience and observations are invaluable. Please chime in at any time. I really would like to do this right!

Groundhog

**Ed from NY** · 09-11-2011, 11:45 PM

On the keyboard on the right/left side... figure out how you work your tool changes and stuff. For me it works well on the left side, but for you it could be different. Also make sure you can access all sides of the machine without taking apart the whole enclosure or having to remove the machine from it.

If you are using bifold doors you should not have a problem opening inwards. Also plan for a beefy jet of coolant hitting the enclosure from the inside... from any direction. That happens as the coolant hits your part and gets deflected in whatever direction.

Good luck!

**Ed from NY** · 09-11-2011, 11:52 PM

BTW, can't tell from the pic, but your machine may be a bit too forward. At Y=0 the edge of my table is 16" from the front of the enclosure. That is just enough to allow a reasonable amount of movement with a full size vise like a Kurt. The edge/knob of my Kurt protrudes 9" from the edge of may table the way I normally set it up. That allows for 7" travel... I think the limit is something line 6.75"