HELP!!4 axis bipolar microstepper

[gyllsy]

Hi guys
I'm trying to assemble a FC5555 foam cutter (http://www.foamlinx.com/fc5555.html)

I have a Bi-polar 4 axis micro step motor driver from (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=013)

I dont know how to connect the DB25 extension with the driver board because the driver datasheet it's a little bit confusing. how can I match or know which of the 25 pins correspond to the one of the driver board???

for those who can help me the driver datasheet is here ( http://www.easy-cnc.com/web/download...l3and4Axis.pdf)
I cant get this clear since 3 days ago,.,.,.Also what do I have to do with the power supply??? I mean about wiring it, do I need a separate power supply for the driver board? and another for the hot wire?
here are the specs for the power supply

(24V power supply for the above 4 axis stepper motor driver board
Input voltage: 110VAC
Output voltage:24VDC 6A and 5VDC 6A)


also I dont have the motors diagrams, the motors have 6 wires and do not have the manufacturer brand sticker on it.so I cant get info. How can I deal with this puzzle ?? I'm a newbie with this but I know a little bit of electronics that with proper info I cant do this myself, but this is not the case.

any help will be greatly appreciated!! really appreciated!!

[Monte]

Originally Posted by gyllsy Hi guys I'm trying to assemble a FC5555 foam cutter (http://www.foamlinx.com/fc5555.html) I have a Bi-polar 4 axis micro step motor driver from (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=013) I dont know how to connect the DB25 extension with the driver board because the driver datasheet it's a little bit confusing. how can I match or know which of the 25 pins correspond to the one of the driver board???

The pins are explained on page 2 of the manual. If you are only running the motors you only need pins 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. What program are you using to control the machine, Mach3 maybe? It would help to know.

for those who can help me the driver datasheet is here ( http://www.easy-cnc.com/web/download...l3and4Axis.pdf) I cant get this clear since 3 days ago,.,.,.Also what do I have to do with the power supply??? I mean about wiring it, do I need a separate power supply for the driver board? and another for the hot wire? here are the specs for the power supply (24V power supply for the above 4 axis stepper motor driver board Input voltage: 110VAC Output voltage:24VDC 6A and 5VDC 6A)

Not knowing anything else about the power supply, I'd guess the 110v you'll get from a wall outlet, and the 24VDC goes to the driver board. I don't think you need the 5VDC for anything.

also I dont have the motors diagrams, the motors have 6 wires and do not have the manufacturer brand sticker on it.so I cant get info. How can I deal with this puzzle ?? I'm a newbie with this but I know a little bit of electronics that with proper info I cant do this myself, but this is not the case.

Here you'll have to do some work yourself. With an ohm meter find the 2 sets of 3 wires that have continuity with each other. Then you'll have to find 2 wires out of each 3 that have the highest resistance reading. I think it works like this, wires 1, 2, and 3 are all connected to each other inside the motor. Wires 4, 5, and 6 are connected to each other inside the motor. The resistance in wires 1 and 2 is X. The resistance in wires 2 and 3 is X. The resistance in wires 1 and 3 is 2 times X. Wires 1 and 3 are the ones that go to the driver, wire 2 gets insulated and not connected.

Go here http://geckodrive.com/support.cfm and download and READ Step Motor Basics.pdf. Toward the end of the paper are some drawings showing motor windings and that might help explain what I just described.

any help will be greatly appreciated!! really appreciated!!

Hope it helps,
Monte

[gyllsy]

Originally Posted by Monte The pins are explained on page 2 of the manual. If you are only running the motors you only need pins 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. What program are you using to control the machine, Mach3 maybe? It would help to know. I still don't know what program I will use maybe deskCNC, Mach3, first I need to know which program can handle big jobs like cutting 8'x4'x4' foamblocks. I was reading that some programs cant handle this jobs don't know why. This info was provided yesterday by email from the guy who sold me the motors... The motors should have 6 wires 1 black 2 white 3 red 4 red/white 5 green 6 green/white coil 1 is red and red/white coil 2 is green and green/white cut the black and cut the white - they are not used if your driver is a bipolar driver. (Anyway tonight I will do the wire test you recomendd me to learn how to) Also my motors are 3A/ phase, power supply is 24VDC/ 6 A. It is compatible? now I'm confused because of the reading showing that: The easiest factor in choosing a power supply is its current rating. The current rating of the supply is based on your motor choice. The drive will always draw less than 2/3 of the motor’s rated current when it is parallel (or half-winding) connected and 1/3 of the motor’s rated current when it is series (or full-winding) connected. That is to say, a 6 Amp / phase motor will require a 4 Amp rated supply when parallel connected and a 2 Amp rated supply when series connected. If multiple motors and drives are used, add the current requirements of each to arrive at the total power supply current rating. Maybe I think should not connect my 3A/ phase motors to this 6A power supply because as the reading described I will need a 1A power supply for my 3A/phase motor when series connected. right? Not knowing anything else about the power supply, I'd guess the 110v you'll get from a wall outlet, and the 24VDC goes to the driver board. I don't think you need the 5VDC for anything. What about the power button, switches, wires gauges to wire the power supply? I will use a 5Amp fast blow fuse for the drive as I read in the Step motor basics- It is good practice to use a fuse, (5 Amp, fast blow) for each drive. This way if a fault develops such as a short to ground, windings shorted, etc. the fuse will blow and protect the drive and power supply. It is cheap insurance. What can I do with the 5VDC ? The power supply came without wires,,,how I know which are the input or output terminals?? I was reading this in the step motor basics: If a linear regulated or a switching supply is to be used, then a large capacitor should be placed across the output terminals. A 2,000 to 10,000 uF capacitor should do. Can I find it with a tester (linear regulated or switching supply)? right? Here you'll have to do some work yourself. With an ohm meter find the 2 sets of 3 wires that have continuity with each other. Then you'll have to find 2 wires out of each 3 that have the highest resistance reading. I think it works like this, wires 1, 2, and 3 are all connected to each other inside the motor. Wires 4, 5, and 6 are connected to each other inside the motor. The resistance in wires 1 and 2 is X. The resistance in wires 2 and 3 is X. The resistance in wires 1 and 3 is 2 times X. Wires 1 and 3 are the ones that go to the driver, wire 2 gets insulated and not connected. Go here http://geckodrive.com/support.cfm and download and READ Step Motor Basics.pdf. Toward the end of the paper are some drawings showing motor windings and that might help explain what I just described. Hope it helps, Monte

Thank you for your time and help Monte !
ruben

[Monte]

The pins are explained on page 2 of the manual. If you are only running the motors you only need pins 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. What program are you using to control the machine, Mach3 maybe? It would help to know.

I still don't know what program I will use maybe deskCNC, Mach3, first I need to know which program can handle big jobs like cutting 8'x4'x4' foamblocks. I was reading that some programs cant handle this jobs don't know why.

I only have experience with Mach, it would handle the big jobs no problems. Lots of good support, up to 6 axis, etc.

This info was provided yesterday by email from the guy who sold me the motors...

The motors should have 6 wires
1 black
2 white
3 red
4 red/white
5 green
6 green/white

coil 1 is red and red/white
coil 2 is green and green/white

cut the black and cut the white - they are not used if your driver is a bipolar driver.

Don't cut them, just insulate them so they can't get in the way or make contact with anything. Look on page 3 of your driver manual, the 6 Wire Stepper Motor Diagram is what you have.

(Anyway tonight I will do the wire test you recomendd me to learn how to)

That would be good. You should find the values of red>red/white to be 2 times red>(black or white) and 2 times red/white>(black or white). You'll have to find which pair the black and white wires have continuity with.

Also my motors are 3A/ phase, power supply is 24VDC/ 6 A. It is compatible? now I'm confused because of the reading showing that:

The easiest factor in choosing a power supply is its current rating. The current rating of the supply
is based on your motor choice. The drive will always draw less than 2/3 of the motor’s rated
current when it is parallel (or half-winding) connected and 1/3 of the motor’s rated current when it
is series (or full-winding) connected. That is to say, a 6 Amp / phase motor will require a 4 Amp
rated supply when parallel connected and a 2 Amp rated supply when series connected. If
multiple motors and drives are used, add the current requirements of each to arrive at the total
power supply current rating.

Maybe I think should not connect my 3A/ phase motors to this 6A power supply because as the reading described I will need a 1A power supply for my 3A/phase motor when series connected. right?

I don't think there will be a problem. You could repost on the Stepper motor forum again to get some other's thoughts. This thread is sort of lost since it got moved here for some reason. You might want to email the board admin to get it moved back.

Not knowing anything else about the power supply, I'd guess the 110v you'll get from a wall outlet, and the 24VDC goes to the driver board. I don't think you need the 5VDC for anything.


What about the power button, switches, wires gauges to wire the power supply? I will use a 5Amp fast blow fuse for the drive as I read in the Step motor basics-
It is good practice to use a fuse, (5 Amp, fast blow) for each drive. This way if a fault develops
such as a short to ground, windings shorted, etc. the fuse will blow and protect the drive and
power supply. It is cheap insurance.
What can I do with the 5VDC ?

I doesn't look like you will use the 5VDC for anything.


The power supply came without wires,,,how I know which are the input or output terminals??

I don't know anything about the power supply. Do you have a manual?


I was reading this in the step motor basics:
If a linear regulated or a switching supply is to be used, then a large capacitor should be placed
across the output terminals. A 2,000 to 10,000 uF capacitor should do.
Can I find it with a tester (linear regulated or switching supply)? right?

I don't know about that. Your power supply should have some specifications that could tell you what it is.

Here you'll have to do some work yourself. With an ohm meter find the 2 sets of 3 wires that have continuity with each other. Then you'll have to find 2 wires out of each 3 that have the highest resistance reading. I think it works like this, wires 1, 2, and 3 are all connected to each other inside the motor. Wires 4, 5, and 6 are connected to each other inside the motor. The resistance in wires 1 and 2 is X. The resistance in wires 2 and 3 is X. The resistance in wires 1 and 3 is 2 times X. Wires 1 and 3 are the ones that go to the driver, wire 2 gets insulated and not connected.

Go here http://geckodrive.com/support.cfm and download and READ Step Motor Basics.pdf. Toward the end of the paper are some drawings showing motor windings and that might help explain what I just described.

Hope it helps,
Monte

Monte

[gyllsy]

Monte,
Sorry for the late reply,(virus problem) thank you for your support!! concerning the power supply, I contacted the seller and finally told me some info about output pins and input pins connections.

Also about this quote:

Maybe I think should not connect my 3A/ phase motors to this 6A power supply because as the reading described I will need a 1A power supply for my 3A/phase motor when series connected. right?

They are 2.5A but since my driver is going to be a PWM driver they really take about 1A. So there's no problem, I got this info by asking Tal from foamlinx.com because he sold me the stepper motors.

Now I'm looking for the right acme screw. The machine FC5555 (http://www.foamlinx.com/fc5555.html) use 1/2-10 Acme Screw. I don't know if there exist a better acme screw for a better performance (cutting speed etc). I will take a look in the forum screw section to find out more info. In www.use-enco.com they sell Alloy Steel and Oil Finish Steel acme screws, don't know what the Oil Finish Steel mean... That's my first thing to find out!!

Thanks again for your time and help Monte !! and for this forum which is very helpful for everyone who want to learn from experienced people like you!!
Thanks thanks thanks !!!

[Monte]

Originally Posted by gyllsy Monte, Sorry for the late reply,(virus problem) thank you for your support!! concerning the power supply, I contacted the seller and finally told me some info about output pins and input pins connections.

Bummer on the virus. Glad to hear the seller helped out.

Now I'm looking for the right acme screw. The machine FC5555 (http://www.foamlinx.com/fc5555.html) use 1/2-10 Acme Screw. I don't know if there exist a better acme screw for a better performance (cutting speed etc). I will take a look in the forum screw section to find out more info. In www.use-enco.com they sell Alloy Steel and Oil Finish Steel acme screws, don't know what the Oil Finish Steel mean... That's my first thing to find out!!

Yeah, I don't know the difference either. Doesn't seem like the foamcutter would be running at very fast speeds so I'm sure that a super duty acme screw isn't needed. It looks like the difference is the tensile strength of the 2 different steels used. Just have to be sure that the screw is lubricated well.

Are you building a foamcutter from scratch, or did you buy one? I looked at the web site, those things are pricey! If I may, what are you going to be doing with yours?

Monte

[gyllsy]

Originally Posted by Monte Bummer on the virus. Glad to hear the seller helped out. Yeah, I don't know the difference either. Doesn't seem like the foamcutter would be running at very fast speeds so I'm sure that a super duty acme screw isn't needed. It looks like the difference is the tensile strength of the 2 different steels used. Just have to be sure that the screw is lubricated well. Yes, basically I will use the machine for crown moldings. Do you know any advantage between screw and belt driven? Are you building a foamcutter from scratch, or did you buy one? I looked at the web site, those things are pricey! If I may, what are you going to be doing with yours? yes, I'm building a foamcutter from scratch, they sold me the FC5555 metal parts, motors and power supply. I have to buy driver board (already did http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=013), acme screws, stainless steel rods, and Variac. They use the SC-10T model http://www.action-electronics.com/variac.htm I have a week looking for this exact model at a cheaper price. Basically is from scratch, I don't know exactly what I will need to complete the machine,.,.,but the internet, the forum and guys like you are really helpful to find out what I need, and help others find their questions answered maybe by reading these threads. What I'm planning to do is to custom made crown moldings geometries for my brother-in-law's construction company in which he's the owner and most of his jobs are based in crown moldings,maybe I can do some money with this idea. So let's see what happen!! Monte

thanks!!
HAPPY MOTHERS DAY !!

[Monte]

Yes, basically I will use the machine for crown moldings. Do you know any advantage between screw and belt driven?

Not sure it would matter in your case, you'll need screws as far as I can tell. You could use the belts if you need/want to change the ratio of motor turns vs. screw turns, i.e. you want to gear it up or down. I would think direct drive is how these are built.

yes, I'm building a foamcutter from scratch, they sold me the FC5555 metal parts, motors and power supply. I have to buy driver board (already did http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=013), acme screws, stainless steel rods, and Variac. They use the SC-10T model http://www.action-electronics.com/variac.htm
I have a week looking for this exact model at a cheaper price.

Or build one. I've got one at home that a friend built from scratch/used parts. Search the www if that sounds like something you'd like to do. Might save some money, might not.

Basically is from scratch, I don't know exactly what I will need to complete the machine,.,.,but the internet, the forum and guys like you are really helpful to find out what I need, and help others find their questions answered maybe by reading these threads.

Glad I could help. I'm learning myself, still working on getting my desktop mill cnc'd.

What I'm planning to do is to custom made crown moldings geometries for my brother-in-law's construction company in which he's the owner and most of his jobs are based in crown moldings,maybe I can do some money with this idea. So let's see what happen!!

If you're doing this for your brother-in-law's business (he's making money!) you better be making some money from it!

Here's a homebuilt foam cutters, might give some ideas on stuff, Googled 4 axis cnc foam cutter:
http://www.8linx.com/cnc/day1.htm
http://www.houstonhobbies.com/tips/b...oam-cutter.htm

thanks!!
HAPPY MOTHERS DAY !!

Um, Thanks!