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#50
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| Pilehave, here are my Mach3 settings... just the X axis for now, let's get one axis going and then worry about the others. '1' shows the port setup. '2' shows the motor signal setup. '3' shows the ouput signals setup. I suspect this is where you are going wrong... Give it a go and let us know what happens. |
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#51
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| I managed to get all 3 axis boards running today and have set them up using Mach3 and run a few tests and all is good. I have also posted some photos of the setup if that helps anyone. The most important thing I have found is the link from GND on the driver boards to pin 25 on the breakout board. Without this it will not work. I have highlighted it in one of the photos. It can be linked from any one of the boards. It is shown on the Hookup.pdf file. I noticed on the photos that pilehave posted of his setup that this connection is not there. I have tried it without and it doesn't work. As soon as it is reconnected (Powered down first!!) it works. This could well be a problem for pilehave. I have also included a clearer version of the Hookup.pdf file which shows this connection. Hope this helps. Now all I have to do is build the rest of the machine :-) |
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#52
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| I received no reply from MDFly about support for 8-wire motors, so I decided to try them out anyway. What's the worst that could happen, right? I just received my motors from Keling Technology; they are model KL23H256-21-8B and they work just fine. They are wired bipolar serial (1.5A/phase in this configuration) and I'm running them with 24V. I still haven't built my machine so they're not actually loaded. Interestingly I had to bump up the kernel speed to 60000Hz, they're pretty rough below this speed. Next I'll get myself a 36V power supply and we'll see what happens when that's hooked up... |
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#53
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#54
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| What ever happened to Pilehave? Attached is a picture of my machine under construction. This is the Y Axis. I'm using a 36V power supply for the motors. The screws are 10 turns / inch. The rails are 16mm. Does anyone have any hints for getting your wiring to hold in the connectors? I've stripped the ends and screwed them in tight but they seem to work their way out... |
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#56
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I have ordered MDFLY’s MD3AXIS8435C a while ago and then came across this post. What a disappointment to me after reading first few pages of comments. But with Urielp911 success story, my worry is not that great anymore. However have to wait till I receive the boards to check it out myself. If I came across this post first, I would never have paid some US$100 on this (with shipping). |
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#57
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| Best to have terminal lugs attached to the end of the wires. If you have screw terminal, spade type terminal ends would be ideal. If it is slide in type, then you should use blade terminals. Radioshack or any electronics shop have these. You might need a crimping tool to attached these to wires professionally. Else, even your plier will do a good enough job. Alternatively, you can heat the wire ends and apply solder to make it stiff and solid. If you use open screw terminals, then you may need to curve the soldered end a bit to attached it around the screw. If it is slide in type, just straight soldered end would suffice. Humm, I guess I have red your question correct... ![]() |
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#58
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In the attached image bellow are three common types of terminals. They are easy to source and low cost. But will give you trouble free connection to screw terminals and makes the wiring professional. However, you may need to buy a crimping tool (low cost Chinese tools are everywhere), for attaching these to wires in a professional manner. Else a standard pliers would do just okay. Attached image shows blade (above), spade (middle) and ring (bellow) terminals. Each has different versions. As an example the terminal to the left of middle row is a spade type (sometimes called u type or fork type), but it's furthest fork ends (tiny amount) is bent 90 degrees. This helps to keep the terminal hanging firmly to the screw terminal's small metal squares. Best is to buy a kit, if you can find. |
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