I just ordered a 5 axis one from the same manufacturer. The thing is that it comes only with chinese manual, but it looks simple enought that I can figure it out. By the price they charge, it worth trying. No way I would find another 5 axis stepper controler for this price.
I could also not find any info in the net about this boards, I don't realy understand why people are not commenting on those.
As soon as it arrives and I try it out I will give some feedback.
I also ordered one of the 5 axis models, and received it yesterday. The board is very well made except that there are no mounting holes for standoffs. I plan to just epoxy some plastic standoffs to it. The board is roughly 6" x 6" X 3". The instructions are in english/chinese. Verbage is in Chinese, however there are picks, in english, of the Mach 3 that show the Frequency and port pin settings. I studied the power supply circuit, and found that the left most pin when looking at the connector is the pos and the next 2 pins are the neg. They are linked just after the header on the board, so neg should be able to go in either one. I power my board up with a 12V 300ma power supply I had laying around, and was able to get the power LEDs to light. I am currently building a PS and expect to be able to test some motor control next week. The axis headers are easy to figure out and labeled well. There is a spindle control relay, and again, this is poorly labeled. I have found nothing yet that identifys the pins for the joystick port or the limit switch port. Using freetranslation.com, I was able to decifer some of the manual, but it is still very hard to understand due to the poor translation. I have considered getting someone to professionally translate the manual to help the community. I think these are some nice boards, just poor documentation. Oh, and don't even bother with the .set file that comes on the disk, it is a poor mach 3 layout file, and it is also in chinese. Maybe between all of us we can get this baby figured out.
Sounds like a good idea to share information on this board Hellhound. I ordered mine on e-bay from "Savebase". This is been 12 days but no board yet... hope it arrives early next week.
Using google translation I got the pinouts of the 3 sub-D connectors. I don't think it is a point to try harder to translate the manual because there is realy not much more in there.
For me, the most important peaces of information missing information are:
1- The TA8435H has two possible current outputs, (100% and 62%) but the actual current depends on the sense resistor. The value of this resistor is never told. How can anyone even plug a motor without this info?
2- They say it has "automatic semi-current". I guess what they mean is that after a while with no pulses from the parallel port, the current drops from 100% to 62%, but how exactely does that work?
The translated tables are:
(This is a result of web translation, I did not test it yet so use with care)
Thanks for the pin info. I bought mine from Hot_mart2008. It took around 10 days to arrive. I am not sure if it was on my auction or another, but the board has a max of 2.5A per axis. I am going to be using 2.7A motors so this should not be an issue. Not sure on the semi-current. I will look at the baord and see if I can tell what resistor they are using.
Yes that is an issue. What they post as the "board" capabilities are in fact a copy-paste from the TA8435H datasheet. The datasheet states that the chip has a maximum of 2.5A peak and 1.5 RMS. But those figures are absolute max. of the chip, not at all related to the real amps of the board.
A sense resistor must be wired to the sense port of the chip because the chip uses that as a reference to keep coil current in range by "chopping" it. For instance, in the example of the TA8435H datasheet the resistor is 0.8OHM and that means the 100% gives 1.0A, the 62% gives 0.62A.
By looking at various pictures of the board I saw in the net, by the color code looks like a 0.5OHM, and that would mean (hopefully) 1.5A at 100% and 1.0A at 62%. You can find this out just by looking at the 10 big resistors in your board.
It is not big deal, just that you will get about half the rated torque form your mottor. Maybe you can go around that by wiring it in series, that way you reduce the required current by half but reduce your maximum RPM by half too.
Anyway, I advice you to read the TA8435H datasheet and check your resistors before going ahead.
The TA8435H Driver Board is working
To power up the board I used only one power supply 12v , 2A
Plug in the first two pins + then GND
It good board , but it need strong stepper motor, and it is a myth to say mach3 does not work with a laptop, it does indeed , I bought the board from China and it takes 1 week to arrive to London
And this is the best information I did found so far
Hello to you all,
I use this chip with "kwackers" (forum name) division controller with a rotary table,
it runs very well at +25volt from a switch mode psu the stepper is a 6.3v 1.5a. i have a +5v chip on board.
Michael, an eccentric Englishman in the city of Nanning China.
To power up the board I used only one power supply 12v , 2A
Are you going to get a 24V PS later or do you intend to work always with 12V? With the motors I have (1.7A, 11mH, 1.06N.m) I would not be able to turn faster than 60 RPM on 12V. With 24V I should get 0.4N.m at 120RPM for rapid move.
My goal with this board is to CNC my X2 mini-mill. I have the X,Y already fit with a couple of (cheap) ball screws I got from China and ready to go. Just the damn board is missing…
Most people on this forum have the opinion that such a board is a bad choice for powering a X2 mill. They are right that the board (besides being from an unknown brand) is barely in the limits for that job. But it only means that the design has to be well thought through as there is not much margin available for mistakes. I am using a 2:1 belt to double the torque (but half the speed), that means I can get about 1.5N.m at low speeds and 0.4N.m at 5mm/sec. Not a dream of a rapid, but should do the job. Well, maybe I will get bad resonances and a smoking board but I don’t care. I just want the chance to prove that doing a CNC by the cheap Chinese way is potentially risky but nevertheless possible.
What you guys intend to do with your boards?
Hey london3131, could you do me a favor? Can you look at the color code of the 10 big resistors in your board and tell me what it is?
I will probably receive my board early next week, but I am curious to know what current it is preset to deliver