Check out my diy component list, tell me what you think

[QuinnSjoblom]

So I haven't purchased anything yet but I have a fee things in mind. Wanted to run it by you guys first to see if you see any red flags, compatability issues etc. As you can tell, I'm not buying top notch stuff. I would like to stay within about a 1500 dollar budget and build something that will cut carbon fiber sheet and some aluminum parts. Crazy High tolerance isn't needed, high speed isn't needed, just a hobby machine for my own personal use.

So here's what I'm thinking so far, I hope it's not against the rules to post these links, not trying to advertize, just looking for advice.

Laptop to run uccnc with a uc100

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Latitude-E6420-Laptop-i7-2-4Ghz-8GB-Super-Fast-320GB-HDD-Windows-7-64-Bit/371949796133?hash=item5699ef7b25:g:8BUAAOSw~FJZF9N F

Steppers/drivers/psu/BOB

https://m.ebay.com/itm/US-Free-3Axis-Wantai-Nema23-CNC-Kit-57BYGH115-003B-3A-425oz-in-dual-shaft-Driver/151796936792?epid=20004592752&hash=item2357cd7058: g:XWQAAOSwbYZXd2Jb

Linear rails/ball screws

https://m.ebay.com/itm/US-20mm-Square-Linear-Guide-Rail-3-Ballscrew-1605-400-700-1000-Nut-BK-BF12-CNC/112639452039?hash=item1a39d5a387:gGAAAOSwPyBZt07Q

I'm open to suggestions if you guys think any of this has room for a lot of improvement for as much as a few hundred more dollars. Still need to choose my spindle. Also I think I'm gonna skip the mdf frame and build one from 80/20 extruded aluminum.

As for the electronics package, the BOB is kind of a no name cheap thing they threw in for free so I'm willing to throw that away and buy something that's known to work well. Open to suggestions there. Also I can upgrade the psu if needed.

As for the mechanics, I've watched some reviews on this stuff, for the money it seems to be really nice, some guys have run into slight issues like a bearing journey that was a bit too tight and needed light sanding, but other than that, great tolerances, etc. The rails and screws have lengths of 400/700/1000 and I only need about a 200/400/600 workspace so I'll be able to use really wide stances with my rail blocks for a good sturdy setup

Just let me know what you guys think. If it's total junk, I'm open to suggestions if I can do better for a few hundred bucks more, but I'm not looking to build a 5 thousand dollar machine. Very much appreciate input, thanks

I guess those links didn't really work. I'll try to fix that

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[ger21]

Try to find motors with an inductance in the 2-3mH range, and they will perform much better. Somewhere in the 300 oz-in range would be fine.

[QuinnSjoblom]

Try to find motors with an inductance in the 2-3mH range, and they will perform much better. Somewhere in the 300 oz-in range would be fine.

OK. The ones I linked are 425oz and 6.8 mh. The same seller has a kit with lower torque versions, 270oz, 1.6mh and a lot less money. Are you saying these will actually perform better? It seems the inductance is linked to the torque, lower for lower. My ballscrew is 5mm thread spacing. I assume that plays a huge rule in the torque/speed I want out of my steppers since it will define the mechanical advantage I have.

[ger21]

This would be a better choice.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-free-CN...YAAOSwuzRXe2Hj

You're going to need 4 motors, if you are dual driving a gantry.

Also, if you can get 1610 ballscrews, you'll get much better performance.

[QuinnSjoblom]

This would be a better choice.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-free-CN...YAAOSwuzRXe2Hj

You're going to need 4 motors, if you are dual driving a gantry.

Also, if you can get 1610 ballscrews, you'll get much better performance.

Aha! I saw that listing and couldn't figure out why it was more money than another set the seller had that was same torque, also 4 motors. I see now because these are much lower inductance at the same torque. Makes sense now. I was actually planning on a single screw under the center of my table. Is that a bad idea? I'll check out some options for 1610 screw. I'm assuming that means 10mm between threads, so double the speed, half the torque.

Now that is think about it, dual drive X makes sense. Less twisting, easier construction of my machine since the table doesn't need to float with an assembly wrapping around underneath.

Thanks a lot for taking the time to look through that stuff. Great input!

[QuinnSjoblom]

Ok, so I'm really liking the idea of dual drive x, it just makes sense. Gantry is held square, easier construction, also the fact that X is moving the most mass around. So how is the best way to implement this? Btw, pretty sure I'll be using uccnc. I can think of a few bad scenarios with dual motor X that worry me. First of all, what happens if one motor shuts down for some reason? Like failed motor, driver, break in wiring, etc? Is the machine gonna try and twist itself apart as the other motor continues moving? Will the 2 motor drivers be paralleled to the same pin on the Bob so they always see the same output? Or do they go on separate pins and joined together in the software? The only method i can think of that doesn't worry me is just paralleling them and also linking the 2 motors with a timing belt so if one fails, the machine doesn't try to twist itself apart. Is there a better way? Also wondering if programming gets much more complex with dual motors that aren't actually on the same pin. Whats the best way to tackle this? The cost of the extra motor and screw doesn't bother me, just want to make sure it's not going to over complicate things. Seems like a lot of guys use this method so it must not be as much of a mess as I'm picturing.

[ger21]

UCCNC handles it automatically. Each motors drive is connected to it's own pins, and you just assign one motor as a slave to the other. It's very simple.

If you set it up properly, and don't try to run it near it's limits, you won't have nay issues. Almost all of the machines you see here are driven this way.

[QuinnSjoblom]

UCCNC handles it automatically. Each motors drive is connected to it's own pins, and you just assign one motor as a slave to the other. It's very simple.

If you set it up properly, and don't try to run it near it's limits, you won't have nay issues. Almost all of the machines you see here are driven this way.

Ok, sounds good. I'll do it that way.

I'm having a major issue trying to source a kit that uses 1610 ballscrews instead of 1605. Seems the 1605 is much more common in the lower price range. Also the fact that I would need to price out stuff separately is also coming out way higher. Like over 600 just for linear rails and blocks, then a lot more for ballscrews. Probably over a grand just in mechanics going that route. It seems the 430 dollar kit I found for all rails and screws us a really good deal vs anything else. I will have to add a second X axis screw, but still affordable. Will I be taking a huge hit in performance by going with 1605 instead of 1610?

Edit: been searching more, there's a good deal for a full set of 1610's (2x800, 600, 300) without blocks for 250, but I'm still having a hard time finding 20mm square rail on its own for an affordable price. I could do it if it's really important to go 1610 rather than 1605, but definitely gonna end up a lot more money.

[QuinnSjoblom]

Made my first order today. Mechanics on the way. Ended up going with the original kit i found with the 1605 screws. Contacted the seller and they are including a second 1000mm screw, end blocks, coupler, nut mount, etc. So for 510 bucks shipped i got all 4 screws (class c7 rolled) with necessary hardware and all 6 linear square rails with 12 carriages. Seems to be a pretty nice package for the money and it even ships from the US. I tried to put together something affordable with 1610 screws, but it just wasnt happening for the price range i needed to stay in, mostly because of buying linear rail separately.

so my next decision to make is the stepper/driver package. Im leaning towards the package Gerry linked https://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-free-CN...YAAOSwuzRXe2Hj If i combine this with a uc100 and uccnc software, should i be good to go? should i stick with the basic bob they include, or get something different? I dont want to over complicate things with features i dont need, but im willing to spend more money for a better board if its reccommended. I just dont want to make it harder for myself when it comes to wiring and setup. Any thoughts on a good board to go with? or just use the included one?

[QuinnSjoblom]

well crap. Now im looking further, im liking the look of the g540. looks like just a bit more money, much more plug and play, seems pretty reliable. A guy on ebay puts together some pretty affordable packages including steppers, g540, cabling, limit switches. Seems to know what hes doing, also does setup videos (corvetteguy50). Would this be a good direction for me?

[ger21]

I'd probably buy the following, rather than that kit:

4 drives - https://www.automationtechnologiesin...bit-dsp-based/
4 motors - https://www.automationtechnologiesin...23h2100-35-4a/
power supply - https://www.automationtechnologiesin...ply/kl-350-36/
breakout board - https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Axis-CNC-...4AAOSwXYtY2jM4

You'll need a small 12V-24V power supply for the breakout board to work.

A few more $$, but better motors for your 1605 screws.

Even better would be these drives, and a 48V power supply.
https://www.automationtechnologiesin...k-is-included/

- - - Updated - - -

Yes, the G540 is a better option.

[QuinnSjoblom]

thanks! yes, it looks as though its really only like 50 bucks or so more to go the g540 route by the time i buy 4 drives and bob and ill end up with a much cleaner setup. slightly less amp capability in the g540 vs the individual drives, but it sounds like it will be fine for my application and really clean things up, make them simpler