If you look waaay back on this thread, I made a nice box for my SuperPID, hooked it up and loved it.
However, it is time for me to get a spindle - therefore, the wires, box, optical pickup, everything is up for grabs. Be advised it is the 1.5 version (I was an early adopter - Roman sent me an upgrade chip for 1.5.) but I can assure you it works fine with either manual control or Mach3 control. Can you swap the chip for 2.0? Asking $70 for the lot. You can see my installation and pics of it here. PM me if interested.
"72.6 per cent of all statistics are made up on the spot." - Steven Wright
OK, got my Super-PID setup. Can turn it on and off with M commands. However I am struggling with the speed control.
What I have:
Mach3
C10 Breakout Board
PC690 router
SuperPID v1.5
From the breakout board I have pin 1 going to Run
From the breakout board I have pin 14 going to PO
In the Confiuring Spindle Page I have "Use Spindle Motor Output" checked
I have "PWM Control" checked
I have "PWM Freq" set to 50
I have Spindle Pulley 1 set to 0 and 30000
Here's the first question - Should it be pulley 1 or some other pulley that gets configured?
I'm not sure what setting I should have for the spindle settings in motor tuning, if anything. Right now I have Step - 1, Velocity - 30000, Accel - something to make the graph look similtar to my steppers.
Here's what happens:
M3 turns the router on at full speed (something like 29000)
M5 will turn it off
But an s5000 keeps it to full speed
s20000 slows it down to about ~26000
s30000 sets it to ~10000
s40000 sets it to ~5000
All going just opposite of what I think they should go.
Appreciate any feedback
George
Here's the first question - should it be pulley 1 or some other pulley?
Well I found my dumb mistake. Had the pin set to Active Low instead of Active High.
Now just trying to fine tune. Upper rpm's are a little high and the lower rpm's are a little low.
I'm doing the adjustments at the Spindle Pulleys settings. Is that where I should be working?
Yes, adjust the pulley speeds to fine tune the rpm. A PC690 is a 27,000 rpm router, so start with the max at 27,000.
I can't remember what I have for my low speed, but it's posted earlier in this thread, probably somewhere after post #300 maybe???
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Thanks Gerry,
I've been trying to read as many of the posts as possible, but man there are a lot.
Your original posts on setting show 0 - 30100
Are you saying you later changed that to 0 - 27000? I'll keep reading through the remaining posts.
George
Glad you got the SuperPID up and running. Cutting a lower speeds sure makes things more pleasant, no?
I am just delving into the spindle world, and I can tell you I miss the friendly, well documented support!
"72.6 per cent of all statistics are made up on the spot." - Steven Wright
I must have forgotten how I had set it up. Whatever I had posted before is how it is still set, so I guess 0-30,000 should be a good starting point.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
revwarguy,
It really does. The lowering of noise is great. Also like that I don't have to think about turning on the router before I start the program - yes it has happened.
So, I am really close to picking one of these up and I have a quick question... What have you all found more convenient, having it optimized for manual or mach 3 control?
I preferred to have Mach3 control the on/off and spindle speed of the router. That is a personal preference though.
Colten Edwards [URL="http://www.cncsigns.ca"]http://www.cncsigns.ca[/URL]
Mach 3 for me, definately. My S&F are set in my CAM software, so it (my gcode) controls the speed of the motion and the speed of the spindle, as it should. I'd only go to manual control to test S&F's.
If I get the mach 3 optimization I can manually switch it for manual control from what I understand right?
It's all about the speed control curve used. Page 21 of the SuperPID manual shows the two modes--one for manual control that uses a semi-log curve, whereby the amount of rotation of the knob is proportional to the percentage amount of change or spindle speed, a very "human" feel, as the manual puts it. The other for Mach3 uses a linear speed curve optimized for computer control. It still allows for manual control via the knob, but with the Mach3 curve, it apparently doesn't "feel" the same when increasing spindle speed.
It also states there is a solder jumper that may be changed at any time. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but wouldn't that mean you'd need to un-solder and re-solder your board if you wanted to change it? Unless it's just a removable pin, I would think it would be more of a hassle to change it than to just use the Mach3 curve for manual speed control if needed.
Yes, if you add a switch (I think), but you can also manually control it in Mach3 with the Spindle Override control.
I can't believe that anyone would prefer manual to Mach3 control.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
From the manual:
Switching between speed knob control and PC speed control
Some Super-PID users prefer to have both speed control systems available. To do this you need to add a change-over switch, usually called a SPDT type switch. This switch connects either the speed control voltage from the pot (knob) or it connects the speed control voltage from the PC.
Maybe I misunderstood your question. Are you asking about leaving the SuperPID in one speed control mode and simply switching from manual to computer, or wanting to actually switch the control curve mode? The former is accomplished by using either of the configurations posted above with the control signal from the computer and the speed control Pot connected through a switch, the latter seems significantly more complicated.
Ok, I think I have it figured out, Now what color is the best? lol
Another quick question. I have purchased a super PID second hand from another member here. On the superpid site it has drop down boxes to select the router brand and model. I was wondering does it matter when it was purchased new originally by him that he may have selected a different router brand and model that I intend on running with it?
No, it shouldn't make any difference.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
I recently rebuilt my machine. I worked to get all my electronics into a single enclosure with minimal wires and plugs on the outside. As part of this I installed my SuperPID in one place and remote mounted the display a few inches away. The start of the electronics section of my build is here (post 27):
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...ml#post1697536
The updated wiring diagrams are there including the manual speed control switch. Here's some photos:
Old box:
New box:
The box is smoked acrylic so you only see the display when it's on. There is no hole for it in the case.
No external wires except my plug-in E-stop, Z probe, USB to laptop, and the AC plug on the back
You can see he SuperPID under/behind the USB CNC 25 pin adapter. The Display is remote mounted via ribbon cable to the front of the box:
Here's a shot of the display mounted before the wiring covered it up.