Reply with QuoteHi Chris.
I would recommend either this:
G0602 10" x 22" Bench Top Metal Lathe
Or this:
G9972Z 11" x 26" Bench Lathe w/ Gearbox
Both have been CNCd here on the zone.
CR.
Best Lathe for CNC Conversion?
After seeing all the build threads on CNC lathe conversions I'm thinking of doing this. I have a Craftsman 12x36 but from what I've read this is not a good candidate for conversion.
I want something bigger/stronger than a 9x20, thinking along the lines of a Jet 1024. Was looking at a Clausing 1301 but it looks a little too big to be putting in the spare bedroom.
What's a good lathe that's somewhat available used in this size range that also would be good for conversion?
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Hi Chris.
I would recommend either this:
G0602 10" x 22" Bench Top Metal Lathe
Or this:
G9972Z 11" x 26" Bench Lathe w/ Gearbox
Both have been CNCd here on the zone.
CR.
http://crevicereamer.com
Too many PMs. Email me to my name plus At A O L dot com.
Those are both great small manual lathes for the price. Far better than the hunt and swap gear change smaller lathes. That being said, I would have a hard time bringing myself to abandon all that great gearing to CNC one. I'm not saying they aren't great candidates, but my question is what parts do you plan to make on your CNC lathe?
Bob La Londe
http://www.YumaBassMan.com
Nothing toolroom precise. On my Atlas I did some wheel centering spacers out of 6061 on a kit car, probably the most precise thing. Getting into FPV copters, maybe small car parts on the side.
Was wanting to go used, maybe find something with busted threading gears, or a burned up motor and get it for less.
Like this busted 1301 Clausing
but it's maybe too heavy and expensive shipping
THIS 2024 Jet with only 50 hrs. would have been perfect but it's already sold.
Last edited by Chris Duncan; 01-21-2013 at 09:58 PM.
Distance is always an issue. When I bought my Hurco Mill for a retrofit project I got a great price, but I had to tow a big flatbed trailer and drive about 350 to get it through a state that limits vehicles pulling trailers to 55 MPH. (glad I don't live there (for a lot of reasons)) Fortunately the guy I bought it from had a forklift to load it on my trailer, and I had a winch to pull it forward over the axles.
You can search Ebay by distance first. Also there is another search engine that searches Ebay, Backpage, and Craigslist I believe called Search Tempest that can show closest first.
If you have any ability to haul and unload you can sometimes do ok. In my case I figure it cost me a days labor, fuel, and wear and tear. It was still a good deal, but you have to weigh all factors.
Bob La Londe
http://www.YumaBassMan.com
Perfect lathe to cnc
Go by mass. Heavier is MUCH better.
I did a 7x, and then a very high-end conversion of a heavy 12x24.
Have not used the 7x for a long time.
Now, as a demonstrator unit I can take to shows, I plan to redo the 7x.
5 axis (subspindle) and micron resolution.
I have 220v ac brushless servos already
But first will convert the 12x to use the 2.6 kW servo as a step-dir spindle with true indexed servo spindle orientation and milling capacity with a subspindle.
You may want to consider a used CNC.
The spare bedroom may be an issue but there are small used CNC machines out there just waiting for an upgrade. You do have to be concerned about the floor of the bedroom no matter what.
There is a range of performance available in ten inch or so lathes. That is they can be built for light use or heavy use and frankly the lighter ones aren't much of an improvement over a 9x 20. If you are really expecting to use that extra chuck capacity you should really be looking at the heavier variants. Avoiding machines with screw on chucks is probably a good idea too. In other words not all lathes in this class are created equal.
Originally Posted by Bob La Londe
I would drive about 400 but then what if it's not as described, like scored ways or something? I can trailer about 1000 lbs but not much more.
There seems to be some local opportunity, there was 2 of these Jet 1024 recently in the area, I think because they used to warehouse them here. I may just bide my time until something shows up.
I'm starting to realize that. The Craftsman bears it out. A 12x36 @ only 350lbs. And with steel it will only take a very shallow cut.
I want to do this conversion for the experience, so I'm going to convert a manual machine. The mechanical part of the conversion is probably what I'm best at, the electronics I'll be leaning heavily on what I can get from the forums.
The thing about the garage vs the bedroom is the garage was built in the 60's and it was a DIY and they didn't put plastic below the slab. The house is near a river at low elevation so the water table is low. When it rains hard the water comes up through the slab and the humidity goes up and rusts everything. Would have to get a heater with a tstat and an commercial grade dehumidifier.
The house is already climate controlled and for some things it's easier to stay inside near the PC for Solidworks. But there's times also when having the machinery in the garage is better, so I may rig the garage with a heater and keep everything there.
I really want something stronger than the Craftsman, it taught me how to turn but it would be nice to have more capacity. Yet most of what I do seems to be on the smaller side so still need the small size capabilities. I like the look of the 1301 Clausing, if there was one local, but it would have to go in the garage. It looks like it's not a screw chuck, do you think it would still be okay for small stuff?
Looking for used, do you have any recs for used?
I've owned a few EMCO's - V10P and others. These are precision and pretty robust little lathes. A great candidate is an EMCO Compact 10. It's 11x26 inch - measured chuck face to tail stock, so about 10 inches longer to end of bed. About 325lb (not including any stand), and the same bed as the highly sought-after Super 11. Hardened ways, Austrian quality.
It has a simple headstock -no gears etc, and no QC gearbox. And.. even more important - the spindle is D1-4!
Oh.. I have the exact lathe on my bench right now stripped down and getting ready for full cnc - ac servos, ground ball screws... the works..
Of course, the lathe is the cheapest part of the overall project. Not "common", but there are a few around.
Last edited by lakeside53; 01-22-2013 at 11:17 AM.
Small and heavy is a good option
Furthermore to the mass part..
I have a very good Craftsman lathe, but its another Craftsman !
from Chester UK, their short/ heavy lathe. For a 12x24, its 450 kg, so about 3x the mass of what you were quoting.
It will do a full power 1.5 kW cut in steel, at 1.5 mm DOC at 300/500 rpm, in 120 mm diameter steel. This eats up the 1.5 kW. The frame is not stressed, which is why I feel comfortable upgradng the power to 2.6 kW via a servo drive.
This is approx 10x better than the small normal 7x ones can do.
Typically, light 9x machine will chatter at maybe 500-700 w of cutting power. Few if any have real industrial motors on them *The craftsman motor is about 3x the size of the little ones, and has cut large steel pieces 8-9 hour days, including hardened ballscrews with insert tooling etc.
I was the HAAS commercial manager for Spain, so my comparison now is production machinery.
FYI..
All chicom manufacturers make better and heavier versions of their lathes.
Just look for a model that is short and heavy, relatively.
Any of the usual suspects.
FYI
The new chicom USA imported (BusyBee in Canada I believe) South Bends are very very good, by reports.
Similar to Optimum/Quantum machines in Europe, and higher-end chicom lathe. 2 steps up from the cheapest ones.
Mine has 0.002 mm TIR on the work produced, and under 1 micron real, physical resolution on x and z (via 10.000 count servos at 1:3).
Nothing wrong with wanting to gain experience. However rebuilding a used CNC lathe is a similar experience. Going that route you may end up with a far more useful machine.
Another option is to find a used Hardinge or similar second operation lathe to convert to CNC. These can be found used with prices competitive with import manual lathes but are possibly more suited to your needs. It really depends upon your goals.
That sucks, sounds like you need to move to higher ground.The thing about the garage vs the bedroom is the garage was built in the 60's and it was a DIY and they didn't put plastic below the slab. The house is near a river at low elevation so the water table is low. When it rains hard the water comes up through the slab and the humidity goes up and rusts everything. Would have to get a heater with a tstat and an commercial grade dehumidifier.
The only problem with having such a lathe in a house is the floor. Since I don't know the specifics of your house I can't say if it is a good idea or not. When you get past 500 pounds you really have to worry about the quality of the floor.The house is already climate controlled and for some things it's easier to stay inside near the PC for Solidworks. But there's times also when having the machinery in the garage is better, so I may rig the garage with a heater and keep everything there.
Have you looked at the new Grizzly "South Bend" lathes? They do look a step above the imports in each of their size ranges.I really want something stronger than the Craftsman, it taught me how to turn but it would be nice to have more capacity. Yet most of what I do seems to be on the smaller side so still need the small size capabilities. I like the look of the 1301 Clausing, if there was one local, but it would have to go in the garage. It looks like it's not a screw chuck, do you think it would still be okay for small stuff?
As to the screw on chuck that is something you want to avoid in a CNC conversion if you can. It isn't a hard and fast rule but it does mean the ability to run forward or reverse without a concern for the chuck coming off. This gives you a bit of an advantage when it comes to gang tooling. Since you have a choice when it comes to lathes you should at least consider alternatives to screw on mounts.
""Nothing wrong with wanting to gain experience. However rebuilding a used CNC lathe is a similar experience. Going that route you may end up with a far more useful machine.
Another option is to find a used Hardinge or similar second operation lathe to convert to CNC. These can be found used with prices competitive with import manual lathes but are possibly more suited to your needs. It really depends upon your goals.""
All the VMC and CNC lathes I've seen are either too beat up or out of budget range.
On Craigslist there's a Clausing 5914 12x36 for $2K (3 phase), from a high school
, and a SouthBend 11x20 for $2500, 110v or 220v single phase, low run time.
which is the better of these two? What does "second operation" mean? This is more than I wanted to spend but it might be worth it, compare this to a 1024 Jet which I've seen for $1000 to $1500.
Really would like to build some American iron. Not really starting a business but would like to have some machines maybe a step or so above the hobby level. My cars are at a pro level, just not doing it for money.
""The only problem with having such a lathe in a house is the floor. Since I don't know the specifics of your house I can't say if it is a good idea or not. When you get past 500 pounds you really have to worry about the quality of the floor.""
It was built in 2000 to HUD code, made sure there's extra nails and glue during the framing and decking. Still don't want to overload it. Will just climate control the garage if it comes to that, need to do it anyway.
""Have you looked at the new Grizzly "South Bend" lathes? They do look a step above the imports in each of their size ranges.""
Yeah, they have a 10x28 460 lbs. camlock spindle at $5200, Thinking that's beyond the budget.
""As to the screw on chuck that is something you want to avoid in a CNC conversion if you can. It isn't a hard and fast rule but it does mean the ability to run forward or reverse without a concern for the chuck coming off. This gives you a bit of an advantage when it comes to gang tooling. Since you have a choice when it comes to lathes you should at least consider alternatives to screw on mounts. ""
Yeah, that seems to be a good advice.
Yeah, know all about chatter running a 12x36 Atlas for all these years.
So the Grizzly "South Bend" is Chicom? Who knew! Here comes Chinese quality, they are going to take over now. Have seen it at work on the tool trucks, they build a 1/2" air impact that's smaller than a normal 3/8", and their ratchet wrenches are quickly approaching Snap-on, hate to say it.
Snap-On was never better than Proto (back in the day) or Challenger or a number of others. Its just that they had a driver visiting your shop, arranging financing directly with your mechanics, and doing no questions asked replacements (as long as there were witnesses anyway). It was good marketing on their part. It allowed them to charge more than just about anybody else. We used to have plenty of professionals come into our hardware store to buy Proto and Challenger instead. Even the old Master Mechanic brand was very good when it was US made. I still have a lot of them that say made in USA. When True Value / Cotter and Co started having them made in China I quit buying them.
Bob La Londe
http://www.YumaBassMan.com
Found a Jet 1024 on Craigslist. Purchased for $1250. It's pretty dirty but everything works, very low wear, and the ways are nice. Looks like they were using it for wood, lots of sawdust.
Chucked up a piece of 1" DOM, cuts it like butter compared to the Craftsman. Put it on the chassis scales, it weighs 607 lbs with a 6" 3 jaw chuck.
Good score!
My new Grizzly G0602 got here on 1/24/13, its still in the crate. Ordered a replacement 3 Jaw chuck which uses 2 piece jaws so I can run with soft jaws. It will serve as the tool room lathe for now until I can buy a big unit. I may do a CNC conversion later.
