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Old 07-23-2005, 02:05 AM
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Here is the tanslation of the instructions I promised:

The first bit is just Blah Blah. There is a reference to FMT magazine edition 97, which likely has some Wankel information.

The SW92 was designed in 1960 – 1962 by Dipl Ing Julian Faleki of Poland, and has the following specs:

Swept volume……………………………......9.2 CC
Compression ……………………………….......7.4:1
Max Power output……………..………......1.5 HP
Power at 12000rpm…………….………....……1HP
Fuel…………………………….........Methylalchohol
Lubricant……………………....10-20% Caster oil
Glow Plugs…………………………......…Start 1.5V
Weight………………………………......….900-930g
Eccentricity…………………………......…….3.5mm
Major Radius…………………………......…….28mm
Rotor thickness………………………....…….18mm
Apex seal replacement interval……….….30 H

Building Instructions.

[ 1 ] Rotor Housing.
Study the plans carefully for the location of the housing screw holes. The sharp edges of the rotor housing are manufactured by first machining the housing 1-2mm wider than plan then, after chroming, they are ground to dimension.
The inlet and exhaust are radiused to exactly 0.5mm. It is important that the M4 holes are carefully drilled with equal spacing, especially in the area of cut B-B. The countersink diameter should not exceed 5mm. Accuracy is extremely important, otherwise sealing and compression will suffer.

[ 2 ] Rotor
The seal slots must be symmetrical to ensure good sealing. The given angles must be maintained, and the axis of symmetry must cross the centre line. Through lapping of the sides of the rotor, using lapping paste on a surface plate, you are aiming for the following tolerance: The middle of the rotor should be 4 to 5 microns wider that the corners.

[ 3 /4 ] Front and Rear Housing

Here it is important to follow the correct order of set ups. First you turn a ring of OD ~110mm ID 90 (–0.02mm) about 30mm wide. This ring is the assembly jig. Press the phasing gear [8] in the rear housing, and then insert the bearing. Install the needles [16], the rotor [2] with tensioners [11], springs [10] and apex seals [10] ontothe E-shaft [5]. The rotating assy is inserted into the rotor housing, and the end housings fitted. Slip the assembly jig ring over the housings, then rotate the rear housing until the E shaft turns freely in both directions without any binding. Now the 4mm holes are bored in the end housings with the jig ring in place. After disassembly, the holes are enlarged to 4.2mm and the R45 finished.



Some Assembly Hints.
Before assembly, the entire rotating assembly should be statically balanced. This is performed on pair of knife edges.
The rotor and needles are installed on the E-shaft with plenty of grease. The forward counterweight [6] with it’s key [18] and rear counterweight [7] with it’s pins [20]. The Phasing gear [8] is secured with 4 screws. It has teeth. The mounting holes are not symmetrical. These bolts should be safetied by peening . The bearing [35] is fitted to the rear housing, with sealing rings [15] on each side, and secured with the nut [13]. The front main bearing [36] with it’s seals [19] is fitted to the forward housing, secured by a nut [12], which must be safetied with a split pin.

Both bearings should be lubricated with caster oil. The exhaust [33] and intake [27] are secured with set screws [34]. The spray bar needle [30] is soldered into the knurled thumbscrew [29], such that the 0.9mm hole in the spray bar can be completely closed.

The main housing screws [24] and mount screw [25] are torqued evenly in a cross pattern. If your work is of sufficient quality, no gaskets or sealant will be necessary.

Starting.
First check that the engine turns over without binding. The compression is checked once the glow plug is installed. The resistance to rotation should be less than equivalent piston engine. For the first runs, choose a prop of around 250m diameter. The fuel tank must be above the level of the spray bar. During running in, a fuel of three parts methylalchohol to one part caster oil by volume is appropriate. You will need a conventional starter giving 3000 – 4000 rpm, although a bend grinder can also be modified for this purpose.

Troubleshooting.
If the motor requires greater starter speed to start than mentioned above, then the rotor to side housing clearance is too loose. On the other hand, if the rotor to side housing clearance is too tight, it can miss, or nip up in service. These symptoms can also occur due to excessively lean mixture, or a propeller of insufficient mass. With insufficient cooling, the motor will tend to miss. If the rotor to side housing clearance is correct, then the motor will run in relatively quickly. It is considered run in when it runs without hesitation to 12000 rpm. The fuel-oil mixture can then be altered to 10-15% caster oil, whereby the higher the percentage of oil, the easier the engine is to start, at lower starter RPM.
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Regards,
Mark
www.wrathall.com
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