Question on compound slide and tool post

[pfarber]

Hello all..

I have a pretty much stock Bridgemill ElDurado.

The compound slide rusts. Its in a climate controlled room, and NOTHING else is rusting in the room except the slide. I'm baffled. I've already taken it apart TWICE to wire brush the oxide off the thing, and I hesitate to drench it in oil because then every chip will stick to it.

It this a common issue?

Is my only hope WD-40 or oil?

Are there any good replacement slides in the price range of a part time hobbyist?

Are there any QCTPs that I can mount directly to the table without a compound slide? Is that not recommended?

[HuFlungDung]

Once rusted, I think that the rusted surface tends to self perpetuate. Wire brushing does not chemically alter the state of the rusted surface. Moisture from sweaty hands, or perhaps certain types of body chemistry, might aggravate the situation. I live in a dry climate, so I don't have a rust problem if I just wipe the machined surfaces down with an oily rag.

It seems to me that some guys over on Practical Machinist were talking about soaking rusted machine parts in molasses, and that this seemed to remove all the rust. Maybe it will stop rust from recurring immediately too, I don't know.

[jalessi]

Pfarber,

This is a very common issue.

A light coat of rust-preventive oil or WD-40® applied bi-monthly will keep your table and slides free of rust and corrosion.

Apply it with a rag, just like you would wax your furniture.

A little preventive maintenance will keep it shiny and new.

Welcome to the Zone,

Jeff...

[dgapilot]

WD-40 will initially slow down the oxidation, but then after a short perid of time it will promote it, as it is hydroscopic.

LPS-2 and LPS-3 are good corrosion preventitive sprays. Aircraft Spruce and other aviation mail order houses carry it.

On my wood working machines, I use paste wax on the cast iron tables to prevent corrosion. If you don't want to use an oil, then try wax.

[Ira]

The best I've found for rust problems is Boeshield T-9 and Rust Free. The rust free nukes the rust (I think it's muratic acid or something), and the T-9 protects, its a dissolved wax concoction that really fixed my shop problems (mostly wood tools). I remember scraping that new tool crap off my new table saw saw and the next day it was rusting, made the badass table saw more like a pet that needed some care Guess I had to learn sometime. Anyway, boeshield fixed it up (some other stuff didn't). I'd get the rust free too, so that you're not protecting your rust from your garage.

[dgapilot]

I missed you question about a quick change tool post on my first read. If you are operating manual you want a compound. Without the compound you won't be able to thread or do angle cuts.

If you are set up for CNC, there is no real need for a compound since you can control angles under CNC control. Most people use a 100 series (AXA) Aloris knock off (Harbor Freight or Phase II). This could be mounted to the compound if you wanted. I got my machine used and the previous owner had a Phase II series 200 QCP. It's to tall for the compound, so I got a piece of 3X3 steel about 4" long. Milled it down to 2.630" (if I remember correctly), drilled and tapped for the 5/8-18 center bolt, and then milled ears with slots for bolting directly to the table. Seems to work ok and has 1 less set of dovetails to allow vibration.