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| Shopmaster/Shoptask Discuss Shopmaster/Shoptask machinery here! |
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#13
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Ran it for about 30 minutes at the max speed, smooth and steady !! The noise that I can not fix is the gearbox inside the lathe head .... Should have been shimmed but was not. But then not like you are going to hear it when cutting metal. Now will have to take the lathe motor apart and replace its bearing .... ![]() Well getting there little by little. Cheers, Roberto |
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#14
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| Hi Everyone, Here is the requested bearing numbers, prices, and qty from Applied.com. These are not the cheapest nor the most expensive, they are the one that suits the function and speed. Fixed idler - 4021618 - $23.82 - qty 2 Tension pulley - 2519460 - $11.65 ea - qty 2 Roller shaft on clutch arm - 4513412 - $13.41 ea - qty 2 All other inside belt box - 4021677 - $21.12 - qty 8 Note: I did not change the bearings on the lathe itself since there where in excellent shape and just needed a little cleaning. The bushings where also good and a little steel wool worked a miracle. Here is the information on Dayton belts from Graingers Dayton 3L240G - qty 2 (I think these are slightly too big, but fully useable, will update when I find the exact size) Dayton 3L250G - qty 1 Dayton 3L300G - qty 1 I hope that helps. Those changes took a machine with heavy noise and vibration down to a good old fashion heavy iron lathe and smooth ! Cheers, Roberto |
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#16
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| Most welcome, glad I could help ! Side note, some of the bearing will be hard to remove even though they feel loose. Once you get the old bearings off the shafts, take a file and re-round/clean the edges of those shafts. When the bearing where installed, they must have fit fine but then some heavy handed person mashed the hell of the shafts when tightening down. The ends on flared out a little. Never could understand why people of have to tighten things down to the point something breaks of deforms. The it the problem with this machine, its either very loose, or so tight that things are bent ..... Once I removed all the bolts, all holes where cleaned and chased/re-tapped, cleaned again, new bolts used and correct locktight for the usage. The bolts came out with large wrenches and new ones went back in with fingers till finger tight and then torqued ![]() More to come later. Cheers, Roberto |
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#17
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| Hi Roberto, Did you ever get a chance to finish blueprinting your tri-power. The pic's were great so it would be nice to see the finished product and any thoughts on if you're happy with the machine functionally. Thanks much, Gerry |
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#19
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| It's interesting to see that changing the bearings made such a difference since the bearings in my Eldorado don't seem bad just with a 'hand-test'. I replaced all the lathe drive belts with the cogged style and it did make it a bit quieter. But I found out that you can't use cogged belts for the two matched belts that are on the motor, as the inside of the nearest belt has to ride on the small idler pully while under load, and the cogged belt will slip off the idler after it wears a bit. I was using metric 560 lengths for those two belts. They also were a bit longer than the factory belts but could be adjusted to work. Denny |
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#21
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| The front spindle bearing is a 32008 and the rear is a 32007. The Mill bearings are 32006 and another 32007. To purchase them on line here is a link. http://www.motionindustries.com/ . You can find them at Motion industries . They have timkens or other brands. The p5 precision bearings are next to impossible to get but the standard timkens are around 50 dollars each. Last edited by digitalmdj; 11-25-2007 at 08:46 PM. |
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