Mitsubishi dc servo motor

[jolulank]

I do have a mitsubishi dc servo motor, the type is HD-101-12SP and I need to find another one to replace it; all I can find is a HD-101-12. What does the SP letters mean? Can I use it?

Where can I find info for this servo motor?


Thank you so much
I am a first time user and really think this is a great site!!!

[Al_The_Man]

It is most likely it is the same basic motor, the tail end letters/#'s usually indicate an option or a type of feedback device.
If it is the basic motor that is shot, I would think there is a 99% chance you could use it, especially if you can get it for a good price, as the older DC servo's are getting scarce and expensive.
You could always contact MEAU in Chicago, unless you have a Mits rep in Mexico.
Al.

[Asmordo]

Sorry to wake such an old thread, but there seem to be hardly no info on-line about this series of servos. I hope I happened to find a HD 30B-033, and since it was quite a find I could not resist. But I have found no specs at all about this motor. Is there any kind souls that know anything about this series? If only the power ratings or something. I hope that the 30 stands for 300W, but that may be my wishful thinking?! The B is of course for "Break", and it's a bit confusing since it has two black wires. Does that indicate AC voltage is required?
The Generator, Encoder type says: G1811-108-6 (6V/1000rpm), witch means it has a tacho right? The encoder is a 2500P/R one from Sanyo Denki. If I get it to work I'll probably just change the encoder to a 500ppr one.
I don't feel like testing just on a whim. If I can't find out anything, I guess I have to take it apart, and that's something I would like to avoid. (It would be fun though.)

[Al_The_Man]

Try 24DC on the brake, this should give you an idea if it is low voltage, if it does not release try a higher DC, most Mitsubishi were DC, some Fanuc tended to be AC.
You most likely will find the operating voltage to be around 200v.
If you feed the armature a known DC voltage, automotive battery etc, and accurately read the rpm, the max DC voltage will can be calculated at 2000rpm.
It looks at least 300w, probably much more, what is the mounting flange dimension?
Al.

[Asmordo]

Thank you very much for your answer! That's very useful information.
I was thinking about the same thing about the break, since all the newer AC servos I have also only have DC breaks, but I have no experience with DC servos.
I'll try as you say with the battery soon, when I have a bit less to do. But I don't have a suitable battery at the moment. Maybe it would be ok with a smoothed DC supply taken from a toroidal transformer? I happen to have one that probably would work.
The Flange is ~87mmX87mm. About NEMA 34'ish.

If it were more than 300W I would be glad, since I could have more use of that. It would really have helped if they had written the spec's on the nameplate of the motor. But then again, I would probably not have found it as cheap.

Thanks again!

Try 24DC on the brake, this should give you an idea if it is low voltage, if it does not release try a higher DC, most Mitsubishi were DC, some Fanuc tended to be AC.
You most likely will find the operating voltage to be around 200v.
If you feed the armature a known DC voltage, automotive battery etc, and accurately read the rpm, the max DC voltage will can be calculated at 2000rpm.
It looks at least 300w, probably much more, what is the mounting flange dimension?
Al.

[Asmordo]

I had a little time over, so I released the break with 22V, and it used 260mA, and I also tried to run the motor at the same voltage. It used 0.2A, and that seem very little... It also makes a bit of a scraping sound, is that normal? Maybe the previous owners have only run it in one direction, because it sounds allot better when I run it the other way. I'm going to try it at 48V also, to see how it goes.

I don't have a rpm meter at the moment, but at that voltage it looked to me as it goes at maybe max ~200rpm, and when I stop it by hand the full stall current is 1.45A. (For a very brief moment of course.)

BTW, since you asked me about the frame size, maybe you also would like to know the weight: 4.5Kg.

[Al_The_Man]

If you are running it very slowly you may be hearing the brush noise, BTW, remove the brushes and inspect the length and also use a flashlight to inspect the the commutator through the brush holder, it should be flat all the way across without ridges at each end of the brush contact.
Al.

[Asmordo]

Hi! Thanks for your reply again!

Well, I actually removed the brushes, and rubbed up what little dust there where as best as I could, and I was surprised to find that the internals looks very nice. I may not have any experience with DC servos, but I have seen some DC motors on the inside before, so I know almost new brushes when I see them. The commutator also looked very nice.

Yeah, I noticed that when I tried it on 48V, the sound became much quieter, and somehow I get the feeling that the servo runs much faster than 400 rpm. Hard to tell with the naked eye though. What would you guess that the power output of a motor like this would be? At 48V it took 0.23A no load, even if that's not telling much, maybe you could guess? The multimeter I used is not a fluke though. (I didn't dare to try to stop the shaft with my hands this time. )
The windings seem to be 0.5mm wire, as far as I can tell without measuring them.

[Al_The_Man]

Fanuc, and I believe Mitsubishi, modeled their DC motors on Getty's, a US DC motor manufacturer, and based on this, I would hazard a rough guess that that motor would be around the 35~48 Lb-in continuous torque.
Al.

[Asmordo]

Thank you for that, and thank you for all your help! See you around the zone! =)