Rockcliff Router Build

[lgroulx200]

Hi,

I started to build my router on Saturday. I have about 10 hours of construction time. This is one easy to build router table.

I made a few small changes. The base was glued to 2" X 2" aluminum square tubing. For the plywood, I used 3/4 spruce. I paid $2.00 for a damaged sheet at Homedepot.

The drill rod cost more here in Canada. For the 1/2 drill rod (9 ft) and the 12 bushings cost $74.00. I had 2 pieces of drill rod on hand for the Y axis.

Larry

[Jason Marsha]

Congrats on your start. You are looking good so far.

Jason

[lgroulx200]

Hi,

Got my X table built. Very impressed on how easy the table moves on the bushings.

I have to make the Y Z conector plate again. The shafts are misaligned slightly, enough to cause binding.

Larry

[likuanu]

Hi
Where you bough this router? How much is it? How the elctrical wiring and the stepper driver controller model?

[lgroulx200]

Hi likuanu,

I purchased the plans from: www.stonehook.net/cnchome.htm
I think I paid $18.00 for them.

My steppers and driver board came from hobbycnc. I purchased the 200 oz package. These were used on my first machine. I was very pleased with their performance.

The Rockcliff machine is very easy to build. There are only a few screws and no metal fittings to build. You just have to be careful cutting out the bushing tracks. I am going to use a Dremel or something like it. I don't think the machine will be able to handle a larger trim router.

The picture is my first machine. It worked well but the X axis kept jumping the tracks. The Rockcliff is going to be used as a small CNC drill press so I can finish my aluminum Z axis on my 2nd machine than I'm building.

Larry

[lgroulx200]

Hi,

After 4 tries I finally got the Z - Y connector plate finished. I was having a tough time keeping everything parallel. Just trying to go too fast.

I ended up cutting guide marks on the table saw and then routing the cut lines.

The plans call for 1/4 treaded rod lead screws. I will be using 5/16 lead screws. I have the lead nuts and couplers from my other machine.

Larry

[azucar151]

Hello Igroulx200,
I've been looking over my Rockcliff schematics and noticed that indeed the "z-y connector plate" will probably be the hardest part of this router to manufacture (with my limited skills, that is...).
Can you elaborate in more detail on the procedure you used to achieve this (I mean "cutting guide marks on the table saw and then routing.." ).
Also, which of the 3 shape choices suggested for the grooves did you use (round, square or "v")
Thanks in advance!
Moses

P.S. this is my first CNC project.

[lgroulx200]

Hi Moses,

I will take some pictures. I routed out the bushing guides.

I am very new to woodworking so it sometime takes a few tries. The good thing about this router is that it if you make a mistake, it will not cost lots to repair. Redoing the Z Y plate 4 times has taken me about 2 hours and a few choice words under my breath.

Larry

[lgroulx200]

Hi,

Here are two pictures of the Y Z plate. On one of the plates the guide moved when cutting the center grove and the other was used as a template for cutting my guide lines with the tablesaw. I set the blade height to .313" and cut template lines as per plans. I then routed along the cut lines. On the second picture, you can see one of the sawn lines.

This method worked best for me.

I have white glued my bushings and caps in place. I will use epoxy for the lead nuts.

Larry

[azucar151]

Hi Larry,
Thanks for the quick reply. The photos illustrate your procedure well. I will attempt to emulate what you have done hopefully sometime monday or tuesday. I noticed that you chose plywood instead of MDF, something I hadn't considered... will probably try the same myself. I'm gonna start my build with that piece just to get it out of the way... will report back here on the results.
Thanks again for the help and taking the time to provide the great photos.
Moses.

[randyf1965]

For your X axis that keeps jumping off... check out Joe2000che's router Z axis... he used U bolts to hold a bearing on the back of the drill rod

[lgroulx200]

Originally Posted by randyf1965 For your X axis that keeps jumping off... check out Joe2000che's router Z axis... he used U bolts to hold a bearing on the back of the drill rod

Hi Randy,

Thanks for the suggestion. Joe has some good ideas on his machine.

I had the skate bearings riding on top of the gas pipe. I was having trouble with my original X axis design so I built it the easiest way I could. I just wanted to get the machine going. I didn't think the machine would or could cut as fast as it did.

As for that machine, I have striped off all the useable parts and threw out the table.

Larry