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#2
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| I am interested.. I already started something but the results are really not very good.. I made a "bindomatic"... The space between the bearings blocks is too big and it just binds all the time. I will have quite a hard time to fix it without spending much more money than I already have.. Do you have any clean ideas in mind ? The software part will not be the hardest if your PCB program can export XY coordinates for the parts centering.] Best regards, Alexandre |
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#3
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you can probably patten it...but seriously, I suspect that you have an alignment problem, or is your base is not flat & stable to the movement that will torque your rails out-of-alignment. |
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#5
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I used Igus bearings and the guy that made the mechanics for me ignored my warnings that the bearings should be at 1/2 the width of the space perpendicular to them as Igus clearly states for their bearings. It will just keep binding until that rule is covered or I get other kind of bearings. Best regards, Alexandre |
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#6
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Best regards, Alexandre |
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#7
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I think we can cut a big problem in some more smaller problems, and so on till we find a good, working, inexpensive solution. Is this way OK for you ? The machine is SOFTWARE + HARDWARE. Software can be a problem for me, but probably not for Alexg, so first problem is solved Hardware: we can cut in 3 parts: the X Y Z plus Rotation " plotter", feeders, and the most complicated part, the "head" with all the pick and place goodies. Alexg: can you tell us more about your experience? Thanks to all, we are a good team. Paolo |
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#8
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The Z, rotation and vacuum pick and place is also quite easy. What I made was using 2 small steppers with screws attached to them that go on a Igus Drylin N "shuttle". The top one drives the "shuttle" up and down and the bottom one is connected to a small vacuum pickup tool and makes the rotation. X and Y should be quite fast to be usefull.. In my humble thinking we can survive with about 0.3 mm of combined precision. That should not be a big problem.. Another problem to be dealt with afterwards is how to take the components from their original rools. But that is a hole new story... Best regards, Alexandre |
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#9
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I have just received from Distrelec a " P 830 vacuum pick up ": it does NOT work, suction cups are not precise, and move easely. What do you suggest ( and are using ) to pick up the SMD? What vacuum pump do you use ( refrigerator or bigger pump) ? The suction cup is my biggest problem, I do not think to have problem with the " plotter", I will use FLEXLINK or BOSCH RETHROT alluminium and accessories, plus SYNCHROPOWER belts, as used in my Bungard PCB driller : simple, noiseless, fast, and , after all, inexpensive. If needed, I can send you pictures and RS catalogue part numbers. How are built suction cups in commercial pick & place ? Any picture of simple " squaring station "? Paolo |
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#10
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I think I can get Bosch stuff down here in Brazil also.. Not cheap but maybe be easier than other options... Best regards, Alexandre |
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#12
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Thank you for the GREAT idea, Alexandre ! I could not wait, so I built the gear with a flattened needle and an aquarium pump ( preiously used for the PCB bubble etcher ) and a piece of tube: it works great!! I'm here in front of my pc, answering you with one hand, and with the other shaking with decision the needle with attached a SMD 1206 resistor: it stays attached to the needle without problems! Now I'll find a small 200 step stepper, and I'm thinking the best way to attach the needle to the stepper, then to the Z axis. Is a good idea to use a solenoid for Z axis as in LPKF pcb drillers ? Paolo |
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