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I checked out your build thread last night. You are doing great, way ahead of where I'm at. The dimensions on my table cut it pretty close but it is still possible to put full 5x10 sheets on with a little bit of room around the sheet. 1/2 or 3/4 inch if I recall correctly. I may end up going with a 2 piece design as well.
Brad
Tonight I pulled the gantry back apart and took all the pics of it going back together.
1) Here it is before disassembling again.
2) disassembled.
3) rail profile.
4) loosen 12 bolts on side "A" (straight end).
5) flip X axis rail upside down so you can see bolt tabs when assembling.
6) guide bolt tabs into rail.
7) butt end rail up tight to X rail.
8) tighten 4 bolts at "A" sticker then tighten 8 side bolts.
9) loosen X axis guide rail bolts.
10) clamp flat block to top of X rail and clamp X guide rail to block to level it.
11) clamp other end of guide rail and snug both end rail bolts. repostion clamps inward 1-1/2 feet and then tighten the rest of the guide rail bolts.
12)slide X axis carriage onto guide rail.
13) a little interference between bolt head and gear reducer mounting plate (sent enquiry to Ron about it, im sure its just an adjustment im missing.)
14) pinion meshed at proper height.
15) slide cable guide onto stainless cable tray.
16) secure in place with provided bolts.
17) cable guide aligned with tray.
18) loosen 6 bolts off for dropped side "B".
19) guide "B" side bolt tabs into rail.
20) clamp bolck to align B assembly rail to X rail and tighten the 6 bolts.
21) install decorative end cap with supplied push pins.
22) gear reduction unit as delivered.
23) remove 4 large allen head bolts and remove cover plate.
24) drill out motor mounting holes in motor flange to #8 or .199 drill.
25) end plate, bearing, pinion gear, and belt removed from reduction unit.
26) pinion gear and motor installed on cover plate.
27) install belt on pinion gear then guide belt over large gear while reinstalling cover plate.
28) apply slight tension to belt and tighten motor mount bolts. rotate rack pinion gear while watching motor end shaft to ensure belt is engaged properly in both gears.
29) final assembly.
Hello Teknition.
Thank you for compiling a very thorough and concise group of pictures of your build! I'll have to say that Precision Plasma (PP) has a nice gantry.
Is the PP gantry capable of using the PlazPak kit that Tom Caudle sells also or is it Blade Runner specific?
I'll be watching!
Tom
Hi Tom,
Your very welcome! Im happy to contribute so others that are sitting on the fence may decide to jump into the CNC plasma pool. Putting the gantry kit together was actually very easy to do. Ron has eveything labeled very well and it is straight forward as you can see.
I do believe that Ron offers the HD series gantry kits in either 23 or 34 series motor mount configurations, so my guess would be that Tom's Plaz-pak will work. Hopefully Ron will jump in here and give you the details.
On a side note, I talked to Ron and the interference problem in pic #13 was caused by Ron substituting the bolts pictured for the button head bolts he spec'd from the start, wanting to make all the bolts uniform for appearance sake. Although there is adjustment in the guide rail, with the sockets I have I cant get quite enough. He is shipping out the button head bolts to me today to solve that problem.
Brad
The HD series of gantries were designed specifically for the Bladerunner AIO with 620 in-oz motors to keep the costs low on a DIY build. The belt reduction units accept nema 23 motors. The Bladerunner AIO is based on a 3.5 amp microstepping drive from Geckodrive. The plaspak from candcnc.com is based on a 7 amp driver from geckodrive. The nice thing about the 620 motors is that they can be wired in 2 different ways since they are an 8 wire motor. If you wire the coils in series, they can handle 3.5 amps per phase, which matches the Bladerunner AIO. If you wire the coils in parallel, they can handle 7 amps, which matches the plaspak. The difference between the 2 is that you will get higher speeds using the plaspak since they supply more power to the motors. The beauty is that this flexibility is obtained from the same motor which doesn't change the mechanics of the gantry. Here is link to a motor print so that people can see the difference between wiring a stepper motor in series or parallel.
http://www.modelshopcnc.com/index_fi...f/RS23-620.pdf
Ok, finally a little progress has been made. After having a hard time getting the main trays cut and bent locally for a reasonable sum, Ron graciously redesigned them so any fab shop would be able to cut them out without a problem. I found a not so local fab shop (2 hrs away) that would cut and bend my parts for a decent price and picked them up this past Friday. Also last week, I ordered all the other components from a local supplier (tubing, flat bar, angle iron, and cold rolled flat bar rails) and picked that stuff up Friday as well.
I decided to go with 1/4" box tubing for the frame for a number of reasons. Mainly, I like to make things heavy duty and built to last. Also, at a later date I may decide to add flame cutting to the table and the plate thickness may increase so it is nice to have the table to support the extra weight. I figured the extra mass of the table will help with any table shake as well. I got the steel supplier to cut all the components to length to save having to slug 24 foot lengths around and try to cut them by myself and after luring a few friends over, we managed to get all the steel in the garage and stacked out of the way.
30) Lower tray parts and bladder gussets sitting on the air bladder tray
31) Lower tray parts and angle iron for slat supports
32) tubing all cut to length
I decided to make the table a bolt together design so if it ever has to be moved it can be broken down into sections. It will have 3 main frames as weldments and they will be held together with bolt on rails. The main beams that the gantry runs on will also be bolted on. Here are a few pics of how I went about making the bolt flanges.
33) Milling the flange plate so they are all the exact same size. (I dont think the steel supplier knew how to use a hard stop for his saw, and I dont think he owned a square either).
34) Knocking off the sharp edges with the belt grinder after milling.
35) Ready for drilling
36) Jigged in the drill press, centre drilling hole locations.
37) Drilling out to 3/16"
38) Drilling out to 25/64".
39) Chamfering the bolt holes.
40) Flange plates all ready for welding.
41) Leg tubes layed out and centre drilled.
42) Drilling legs out to 5/16"
43) Tapping legs to 3/8" NC
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