Here is a pdf file of my 3-d plasma design. It is about 90 percent complete except minor brackets and stuff...
My name is Dustin and I live in orlando FL and I am going to build a 4x8 plasma cnc. I have completed 3 mnths of research/design and ready to build...
Here is a pdf file of my 3-d plasma design. It is about 90 percent complete except minor brackets and stuff...
Just a note from the been there, done that file -
The "minor" brackets and stuff are not "minor" and should be the center of your design. Otherwise when you're trying to make those "minor" brackets to connect the "major" components you will run into all kinds of clearance and adjustability issues.
Be sure you provide a way to adjust every axis to be properly planar and perpendicular to the other axes. This can be simple like bolted connections with room for shimming since it will only need to be done once.
You can easily do pitch error compensation in most control software, but I haven't seen anything with the ability to do 3D axis perpendicularity compensation, i.e. apply compensation to the Y axis based on the X axis position because they are not perpendicular.
WP1
I have designed the entire machine to make sure I do not run into any problems.. That is the advantage of 3-D drawings to see any minor mishaps. I was waiting for the motors and roller bearings etc.. to come in so I can mic. them. After getting a true measurement on that peice I will go back and finish designing the brackets. Thanks for giving me the advice on the adjustable axis that is a great idea. I will bolt everything and plan to use fine steel shim stock....I will try to build the table as true as possible first. I have access to a full machine shop (my friends) this will help..
I have just finished cutting and welding everything up for the waterbed stand. It turned out extremely well everything within a 1/16" square and level. I will start construction on the alum. waterbed this week...Here are some pics..
Nice start on the table Dustin.
Your research seems to have paid off!
Pictures show a great piece of welded fabrication.
Thanks for sharing & keep us posted.
I am getting ready to order some paint for my waterbed table before it starts rusting to hell. Not the actual waterbed itself (out of alum)but just the metal stand in the pictures below.. What kind of paint should I use, I was thinking of the DP-40 epoxy paint or sandable primer and enamel. Im not sure on what to use.. Any suggestions in the paint realm....??
I worked on the alum. waterbed this past weekend. Everything went as plan, just a few more things left to do on it. I have to epoxy/rivet the slotted alum. L channel to the 1-1/2" cross braces to hold the 3" x 8' steel slats. I will post more pics. as soon as it is finished...
Might be worth checking out the POR-15 line of products. The POR-15 primer is specifically designed for use over bare & rusty metal. I have used it on badly pitted rusty metai & it does do what they say for stopping rust in it's tracks. http://www.por15.com/
The POR-15 primer really does quite well being brushed on. I was amazed that brush marks were just about non existent.
If it works.....Don't fix it!
I can attest to the durability and effectiveness of POR-15. I bought their "starter pack" about a year ago to use on an old, rusty trailer that was sitting in some weeds in my backyard and the results were amazing. I brushed it on to eliminate wasting paint due to overspray (POR-15 isn't cheap) and like millman said, the brush marks are non existent. This stuff also goes on THICK and covers very well so you can usually get away with a single coat. Be warned that it is light sensitive and its color will dull if left in direct sunlight, but its corrosion/rust protection properties remain.
I bought it to use on a truck dump body. POR-15 recomends the primer be top coated with another product to protect from sun damage.
The primer WILL NOT remove from skin if it dries there either. You literally have to wear it off.
POR 15 might be overkill for a plasma table in general but for a water tray..... Build it set it outside & let turn orange from light rust & REMOVE ALL MILL SCALE. Dry off & coat with POR-15 primer. I think it would be a nearly forever finish.
If it works.....Don't fix it!
I painted the frame on my Jeep project with POR-15 and got a bit on my hands and arm. This was maybe three weeks ago and the stuff on my arm finally wore off a couple days ago. I found that if you get it on your hands, it'll come off in only a few days if you're constantly doing manual labor like I am. I also found that if you let your hands get "pruney" in the shower, it'll scrape off relatively easy.