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Thread: Alternative Building Materials / Methods for Plasma Water Table

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    Alternative Building Materials / Methods for Plasma Water Table

    I'm getting ready to start a build.

    It appears to me that plasma water tables are always built out of either steel or aluminum sheet.

    How about plywood covered in fiberglass? Yes, I know the water is heavy, but if there are a number of steel supports underneath? How about plastic? Yes, I know plastic melts, but if there are a few inches of water will the temperature of the plastic increase that much? Are there any other options? Any examples?

    Comments please............Let's think outside of the box!


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    I have a water table built out of alum. right now but I am soon going to change that to a fiberglass table. You are on the right track....


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    Dustin, why would you change? I would be worried that if a heavy part slipped through it could crack a plastic or 'glass table. Doesn't yours roll out for cleaning?
    I'm about to build my water table. I used tubing I already had which was 3/16 X4X8 steel to build my table and intend to make the floor out of 10ga steel supported by two inch angle cross supports, and inside the walls of the table. I am building a 5 X 10 inside table..........jb


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    Quote Originally Posted by Boogiemanz1 View Post
    Dustin, why would you change? I would be worried that if a heavy part slipped through it could crack a plastic or 'glass table. Doesn't yours roll out for cleaning?
    I'm about to build my water table. I used tubing I already had which was 3/16 X4X8 steel to build my table and intend to make the floor out of 10ga steel supported by two inch angle cross supports, and inside the walls of the table. I am building a 5 X 10 inside table..........jb
    The Alum. table has been good for me so far it just has a few minor problems. When the steel parts fall to the bottom and sit for awhile they are eating right through the 1/8" alum. After I cleaned out the tank it looks like the surface of the moon. I guess this is from corrosion and the elcetrolysis characteristics. So pretty soon I will have holes everywhere.. I just think a well built fiberglass table out of 3/4" marine ply and 5 - 6 layers of glass and it would last forever.... Plus I have many steel braces to support the fiberglass box a member every 20" or so. After I get done building it I wouldnt worry about parts falling and cracking it....


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    Would an anode have curbed the corosion?...........jb


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    Quote Originally Posted by Boogiemanz1 View Post
    Would an anode have curbed the corosion?...........jb
    Im not sure an anode would have worked to retard this corrosion or not. That is a very good question that I wouldnt know the answer too without actually trying it. Alum. tanks are known for creating alot of hydrogen or HHO gas during cnc plasma cutting (as well as copper and s.s.), which comes from the electrolysis process. So im sure the debris at the bottom of the alum. tank is communicating with small dc current to help amp the corrosion of the watertray bottom. It takes very small current for this phenomenon to take place and im not sure an anode would pick all of it up.... Well if the tank was fiberglass we wouldnt have to worry about this problem... lol


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    Well that is a "for sure" way to solve that problem Dustin.

    NIC 77 I apologize for hijacking your thread.................jb


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    I just watched a utube on a guy rebuilding a boat. You could simply line the aluminum with fiberglass, or pickup truck bed coating.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Dustin407 View Post
    Im not sure an anode would have worked to retard this corrosion or not. That is a very good question that I wouldnt know the answer too without actually trying it. Alum. tanks are known for creating alot of hydrogen or HHO gas during cnc plasma cutting (as well as copper and s.s.), which comes from the electrolysis process. So im sure the debris at the bottom of the alum. tank is communicating with small dc current to help amp the corrosion of the watertray bottom. It takes very small current for this phenomenon to take place and im not sure an anode would pick all of it up.... Well if the tank was fiberglass we wouldnt have to worry about this problem... lol
    You are confusing electrolysis and galvanic corrosion, electrolysis has nothing to do with the corrosion you are seeing. What you have is galvanic corrosion: when two dissimilar metal are in contact with each other in an electrolyte (the water in the table) the more reactive metal (in this case, aluminum) will corrode instead of the less reactive metal (steel). This process has nothing to do with any current or voltage from the plasma process. The only way an anode would possibly work is if it is not only more reactive than any other metal involved, but also in direct contact with all the other pieces in the tank.

    As far as the release of hydrogen gas, aluminum is more reactive with oxygen that hydrogen is with oxygen. Therefore when sufficiently heated aluminum contacts water, it will strip the water molecules (H2O) of their oxygen producing aluminum oxide (Al2O3) and release hydrogen gas (H2). It does not release so called "HHO."

    HHO (sometimes called Brown's Gas) is pseudoscience nonsense used by people who have a poor understanding of basic chemistry. HHO is really nothing more than the sociometric mix of hydrogen gas (H2) and oxygen (O2). The only time this gas mix might be crated during plasma cutting is when the plasma stream directly contact the water causing it to split. However, these two gases quickly react a short distance from the plasma arc and become water vapor.

    As far as plastic or fiberglass water trays, you would have to be careful to ensure that they can withstand long term exposure to any chemicals that might be in the water. Also, most plastics and fiberglass resins will break down when exposed to UV light, something that the plasma process produces in abundance.


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    Tensaiteki thanks for the well thought out response,

    You are correct about the galvanic corrosion. That is what I am getting and alot of it... When you say the UV light will break down the fiberglass and resin what exactly do you mean?? Are you talking about cracking or delamination or something else.... I dont think chemicals would be an issue at all... Do you not agree with building a tank out of marine ply and glass?? Your thoughts please....


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    Quote Originally Posted by Boogiemanz1 View Post
    Well that is a "for sure" way to solve that problem Dustin.

    NIC 77 I apologize for hijacking your thread.................jb
    It's not a problem, this is exactly the kind of conversation I'm looking for. So the next step I think is to look at whether or not fiberglass will break down under UV light and in the chemical environment.

    But what if it's coated in some kind of paint that protects it? A UV and chemical resistant paint.

    Let's keep thinking outside of the box.


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    How about this paint?

    Supermarine Revolution (TS-1000)

    Submersible for 40 years

    Withstands intense UV, high heat (400F), corrosive chemicals, acids, alkalis and staining agents.

    Boats are fiberglass and can be submerged for years at a time and can be out in the sun for years at a time. Albeit, the plasma cutter probably puts out wayyyy more UV that being out in the sun would, but what order of magnitude are we talking about?

    And does that difference translate into a linear relationship with regards to paint life or is it exponential?

    It could be as simple as repainting your water table every one or two years, and never having to worry about replacing your table. Maybe not.

    Does the paint on the other parts of plasma cutters typically fade within a short time period?


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