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#1
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| New O/A Cutting Table It seems like this will be fun, so I will try to keep track of my doings for those who are interested, and for that matter, those who aren't. I started this about a month ago, but as this is one of those "free time" projects, it has not progressed as quickly as I would like. (When do they ever? )I need to take some pictures and start a gallery here, so I will try to do that later. For now, I will just give a brief description of my goal and go from there. I have been making receiver hitch covers for a couple of years now, relying on a relative to cut them out with his plasma cutter. He has one of those optical things that basically traces a printed pattern and cuts out the part. This is nice, and for low numbers is okay, but seems to require more babysitting that I really want. So, I started looking at the price of manufactured systems. WOW!!! I guess I wasn't really surprised, but again, WOW!!! For what I am after, I don't need super accuracy. I am using an O/A torch, so I think that will be the limiting factor. As a side note, my dad used to work for a company which manufactured and re-manufactured mining earth movers. Once he brought home a couple pieces of scrap 1" plate. The parts had been cut with a device similar to what my wife's uncle has, except using an O/A torch. I was very impressed with the quality of the cut. So I know the torch is capable of a clean cut. Which brings me to the real reason I started this project. I wanted to cut a straight line. That was it. That was the whole reason for this madness. Of course, it started as a straight line, then a straight line with a nice clean cut, then a nice straight line, with a clean cut, with the possibility of doing non-straight lines, and so on and so on. Okay, time for a break. More later... Dave
__________________ Any good electronics tech knows that 1+1=10. Just my 2.5 cents. |
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#2
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| There seems to be a problem with the site being overloaded, and I just got a "This Page Cannot be Displayed" error, so I just lost the second "chapter" of my progress so far. So I will start over with that. I knew there was a reason for keeping my posts short. Dave
__________________ Any good electronics tech knows that 1+1=10. Just my 2.5 cents. |
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#3
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| Okay, back to the straight line. I know from years of experience that when it comes to cutting things out with a torch, my hand is not very steady. So, I started by making a cutting guide. Actually, I started by looking at commercially made cutting guides. And then I thought, I can make that, only better. So I made a cutting guide. (I will try to post pictures of that also.) Using this with the straight edge was a vast improvement over freehand, and as long as my speed was right and consistent, beautiful cuts. But, if I had to shift position, my speed would vary and then I would have less beautiful areas of the cut. But then I got to thinking, if I put this on a rail of some sort and attached a piece of Allthread and turned that with a drill... Or if I replaced the drill with a standard motor which was controlled remotely... And if the remote control was done with a computer... Hey, this has the makings of a CNC project. So I Googled "homemade CNC" and ended up here. Thank God for Google! Break time again. More later... Dave
__________________ Any good electronics tech knows that 1+1=10. Just my 2.5 cents. |
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#4
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| Now on to the progress so far. I, after much gnashing of teeth have got one axis moving. Bear in mind that I am not one who puts alot of details on paper before undertaking a project like this. My reasoning is that if I find that something was a bad idea, there is no black and white record that the idea ever existed. So, I have one axis assembled. Really, it is just a test fitment. Welds need to be finished and sandblasting and painting needs to be done, but the fact that things fit together and move is encouraging. I still have issues with the speed at which things move, but I am confident that will be overcome with a higher voltage p/s. That's it. I did purchase the rails for the short axis today. I have chosen to use 1.625" round stainless tubing for the short rails. I am using skate bearings for all linear motion. My long axis is the gantry which is 60" long. I am using 1.5" square mild steel tubing for that. I'm sure that somebody will tell me that is a bad idea, but I'm stubborn, and I like my own ideas, and this seems like something that should work, at least for awhile. Now that I know I can get stainless tubing for a reasonable price, I may eventually change to that, but for now... My motors are 100 oz*in motors from the HP3 printer. They will be driven by an as-yet-undetermined driver circuit. I am probably pushing the limits of these motors, but I can always upgrade. My goal is 45IPM. I have no real load except momentum and friction. Friction should be minimal. Momentum I think I can overcome by approaching desired speed and stops gradually. We'll see. I intend to have a 60"x24" cutting area. With the gantry spanning the wide dimension, I can place the end (or the middle) of a full sheet on the table for processing. For now, everything I intend to cut will be smaller than this. I'm sure that will change eventually. I am designing the short axis to be expandable, so when I do decide that I need a bigger cutting area, I can add to it. One of the reasons for keeping it short is that floor space is limited, and right now I can deal with the smaller work area easier than I can deal with no room in the garage. I can't think of much to add right now. I will have to take some pictures of what I have so far and post them, but it's late and I'm tired, so they will have to wait. I welcome feedback, advice, and questions. I will do my best to answer questions, but remember I am still sorta new to this. Don't let your feelings be hurt if you offer advice and I don't take it. Like I mentioned, I generally like my ideas, and because I'm stubborn, I reserve the right to reject your advice until my idea doesn't work. Later... Dave
__________________ Any good electronics tech knows that 1+1=10. Just my 2.5 cents. |
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#5
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| Okay, everybody likes pictures. I will post bigger copies on my website, but here is a taste of what I have done so far. Perhaps I am working backward, but this seemed like the fastest way to see something move.
__________________ Any good electronics tech knows that 1+1=10. Just my 2.5 cents. |
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#6
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| More pics! Haven't decided what color to paint this. This is a very important decision, as the wrong color will prevent the heat from the torch being directed to the metal properly and will cause the CPU to distort! Seriously, I am thinking that, as this is a "budget" project, I will probably use what I already have, dark grey metallic or white. This stainless steel tubing was a bit of a surprise. It isn't exactly what I was looking for at the surplus yard, but, it's shiny! Who could pass that up?
__________________ Any good electronics tech knows that 1+1=10. Just my 2.5 cents. |
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#7
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| More pics. This time the Z-axis carriage. I don't know if that is the technical name for it, but that's what this one is called. I may lighten using aluminum, or I may not. Weight doesn't seem to be the biggest obstacle I'm facing at this point in time. Speed is. But I am still working on that. (Bigger P/S!!!)
__________________ Any good electronics tech knows that 1+1=10. Just my 2.5 cents. |
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#8
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| Right now, I am using the 1/2-13 threaded rod as a leadscrew. I think I have enough torque to use 1/2-8 Acme. That will also help with my speed problem, so that is one thing I am going to try. We'll see how that goes. I currently have the long axis (I'm calling it X) assembled temporarily. I still need to finish the welding. But it moves, so I'm happy. I'll be happier when it moves faster. I will end up with 4 motors being used, I think. 1 for the long axis, 1 for the Z-axis and 2 for the short axis (one on each end of the gantry). I am hoping that the 2 for the short axis can be ganged together on the same driver circuit so I don't have to build and control another board, but I guess I will wait to hear from the experts on that. My immediate need for a Z-axis is pretty small. I will be using this primarily for my O/A torch, so I will be able to set the height and leave it, for the most part. Eventually, I'd like to also use this as a router, but we'll see how it moves first. Well, that's all for now. More on the way... Dave
__________________ Any good electronics tech knows that 1+1=10. Just my 2.5 cents. |
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#9
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| that stainless tubing would be nice if you can find a place to use it.. it should be more rigid, plus the smooth surface will help reduce crud buildup.. |
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#10
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| I use the HP 100oz motors on my 2nd machine (joes second cnc) i run them with the Hobbycnc 3 axis board at 32v the best i get with them is 40ipm on HDPE and MDF. but I have been cutting with them for several months now. |
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#11
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I'll post pics when I take them. Dave
__________________ Any good electronics tech knows that 1+1=10. Just my 2.5 cents. |
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#12
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| It Moves - Quickly Things are good!!! Well, I was a little surprised to get the speed I got. Right now I am right at 80IPM! The motors don't have the torque to start out at that speed, so I will have to experiment with the speed and find out how quickly it will change direction, etc. It was cold in the garage tonight, so I will have to go out there tomorrow after I get some more kerosene and get some video for those interested. I find that sometimes you have to improvise a little. At work, I removed a line supply from a piece of equipment because it was more than a little charred. This is basically an unregulated linear power supply. (We use a separate switcher supply that does all of regulation.) It had been in one of my drawers for about 3 years. In fact, I had almost forgotten about it. Anyway, despite the appearance, it still works. (Well, most of it anyway. It has a crowbar circuit to blow the fuse if anything downstream fails. More often than not, however, the crowbar circuit sacrifices itself to save the fuse, and when it does, it takes a good portion of the board with it.) I had scrapped the part, but saved it, because you just never know when you might need a burned, charred, scrapped power supply, right? It puts out about 25 VDC when unloaed. Loaded, it puts out between 18 VDC and 22 VDC, depending on the load. The power supply that I have been doing all of my stepper testing with was a 13.5 VDC supply. With one supply isolated from ground, and the two put in series, I have enough voltage to move the motor at a pretty good clip. So I started the motor moving and sped it up to the max speed of my controller and let it go for 15 seconds. It moved a little over 19 inches, but that included the time to ramp up. I may alter my test circuit a little to see just how fast it will go, but then again, I may not. I doubt that I have enough torque at that speed to be useful, so it would really be just to know. So tonight was good. Now I'm tired, so I'm going to take a shower and call it a day. Dave
__________________ Any good electronics tech knows that 1+1=10. Just my 2.5 cents. |
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