Lonestar 5 x 10 Build

[Txchevy]

I've been lurking here for several years just reading the and soaking up the amazing amount of information that is available here. I've been dreaming of owning a plasma table for the past several years but the cost of a turnkey setup put it far out of reach. Thus I began researching the process to build my own. I looked at alot of different designs and companies for ideas. I had planned to start a small 4x4build months ago but, I landed a new job with a good amount of overtime so time has been rare lately.

I almost picked up a torchmate 2x2 for the ease of use but after further research I decided it would be more of a hassle than its worth. After reading many post from people saying they wished they had gone bigger I decided that I would learn from their mistakes and do it right the first time. I began talking to ron from perscion plasma and after his great responses and quick replies I took the plunge on a friday, wednesday I had my kit.

Here's the plans
Perscion plasma 5x10 kit
6" Rotary chuck
BladeRunner Aio 5 axis w/ 620 oz in motors
Hypertherm Powermax 45
Table built from 1/4" wall material
Custom Plate marker
Custom Pc w/ soildworks 2010
Cable track system
E stop Switch on either end of the table
Overhead gantry with lift magnet
Aircell refrigerated dryer
Plasmaspider 2 stage air dryer

I've got most of it figured out. I just need to save for the CandCNC setup and iron out a few details. I've been looking for cable track for a while now and think ive settled on the right type. Its from Igus series 25.4.100( 3x1(bend radius 3.5") I figure i'll need roughly 20" feet. Can any one give their opinion as to if this will work or is it too big? The price is right at bout $12/ft but after looking at many designs it seems its a little large in comparison. Can't wait to start on this!

Thanks,
Cory

[rock4xfab]

Sounds lie you have the plan figured out pretty well..
I ended up getting my Cable track from McMaster Carr.

Here is a link to my build using everything you are except I am only going 3x4 in size. My gantry also is from RON, great guy to deal with. Also my electronics all from Tom at CandCNC.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110827

Here is some info on my Cable track and for hole spacing on Precision Plasma's rail

Also for those using the presicion plasma gantry kit( non bolt together..)
Hole spacing on the rails is 3.15 or 80mm total holes for the 3x4 kit is 15 per rail.
Hole diameter .35

Also thank you to unixadm for giving me the Part numbers he used for the Cable track
I ordered 2-6 foot pcs and will make them fit my use.
1 4409T513 2 Each Open Hinged Cable And Hose Carrier, 0.98"h X 1.50"w Interior Size,2.17"bend Radius,6'l
2 4556T562 2 Pairs Mounting Bracket For Cable And Hose Carrier, Open, For 0.98"h X 1.50"w

[Txchevy]

Thanks for the info rock4x. I ended up picking up a few sections of igus cable track on eBay so ill make those work. BTW get well soon and back to your new table.

Well I've finally saved enough to order the controls and software from candcnc.com. I was curious as to if any one had any thoughts as to maybe any upgrades or added features that I should include when I place my order that others may have wished they would of included after putting the system into service.


Thanks
Cory

[Txchevy]

Heres the final design for the table. All the controls and software were ordered form candcnc.com Thursday afternoon. I'll make a cut list this evening so that I can get a total quantity of steel needed to make an order Monday.

Main structure 3x3x.250
supports and bracing 2x2.250 and 2x2x.125
Pc/controls/plasma cutter enclosure water tank and water table 16 gague

The table is a twist on the original design for Ron at precision plasma. I designed the water pan with a 1/4 slope every foot and a drain in the middle to assist with drainage. I plan to drain the table back to the tank each evening to try and keep the humidity down as I am a 1/4 mile from the gulf coast and I have enough problems with humidity as it is.

The lower tank will have a sump pump to help with refilling via the 3 1" holes on the edge of the water table. I'm planning to use a electric ball vavle to control drainage via a modified output in mach 3. Ill use a simple 0-90ohm float from a racing fuel cell I have lying around to keep an eye on the water level in the lower tank.

The pc enclosure will have a positive air flow being pushed out to prevent contamination from metallic particles.

Well tell me what ya'll think?

Thanks,
Cory

[Txchevy]

Well I finally got everything together to start building. Work has gotten extremely busy so I finally talked a friend into taking my truck and picking up my steel order.

6 - 24' 3x3 x 10ga
25 - 20' 2 x 1/8" flat bar
4 - 5' x 10' P&O 16 ga
1 - 6' x 12' 3/16"

For a total of $1,217...ouch. The price of steel is why I changed the design I posted earlier.

Well heres a few pics of the progress.

Simplified Solidworks drawing


Steel order




Setting up the band saw to start cutting everything down.


Everything cut out and ready to be assembled



All the tubes being preped by my shop helper . Clean material for weld prep is critical for a sound weld and mill scale is the devil!


Heres the start of the frame going together. 45* at each corner for a cleaner look. Pipe clamps were used to keep everything in place as I laid the welds opposite of each other to minimize warping.






The base was then flipped to start attaching the legs.

Then the rest of the structure was put into place.



She had to put atleast one weld down on this or I would never hear the end of it.




Once again the structure was flipped over and finished welded. Once finished the riser blocks were tacked in place and tubes that the linear rails will mount to were set and tacked in place. The rails were then clamped in place. The gantry was then assembled and put on the rails for a test run. A weight was added to help use the gantry a line up tool. As the gantry traveled down the rail it forced the rails square. This was a big help as the material I used had almost a 3/8" bend in it from one in to the other end.

I then measured opposite corners and verified the the rails were sq and parallel to each other. Once the position of the rails was set a transfer punch was used to mark 3 holes on each rail. Using the punch marks each hole was drilled out to a 7/ 32" and tapped to 1/4 - 20 to match the SS button head cap screws.



Well thats where I'm at now. I'll start again tomorrow. The goal is to complete everything by the end of the weekend. As always let me know what you think.

[MBG]

Looks good. Are you a welder by trade? Your welds look good.

[Txchevy]

Thanks, its been a long road to get this far. As far as welding I'm actually self taught, though I've considered making it full time. For now I just have part time performance and fabrication business in the corner of my dad's 4x4 shop. I'm hoping this table will help me tool up and start making enough to quit the day job of working on cranes.

[Pro-Fab]

Very good start to your table. An alternative to a holding tank for your water would be installing an air bladder. My table is pretty much the esame as yours, and I built an open tank that just fit inside the framework and seal welded it all around to the square tubing. I then built another inverted tank that is 1" smaller all around and the same distance off the bottom, and as deep as the slats will allow. In the corner by the controller, on top of the bladder I installed a 2" ball valve for the air discharge, and a 1/2" valve that is attached to shop air. With the 2" valve open, you can fill the tank with water to a level just below the top of the bladder (which will act as the bottom of your tank). This leaves very little surface area for evaporation to be a problem. When you open the air valve, the bladder will fill with air and displace the water inside. This will bring your water level up much faster than any pump. Opening the large valve will lower the water level each time you have to pick out small parts. It is a very efficient system that would work very well with your table.
Good luck, I am sure your customers will be impressed.

[Txchevy]

I'm trying to visualize your suggestion on the air bladder. So I need to build seal in the lower section of my table up to the rails. Then build a box inverted facing down with an air pocket under neath I would assume that by applying more or less air the middle box would rise and fall? If i'm understand this properly it wouldn't work in my situation. I need to be able to completely drain the table each night after use. The shop is less that a 1/4 mile from the Gulf of Mexico and the humidity is horrible. If I was to have a open water table sitting in the shop everything would turn to rust in a matter of days.

What I'm considering now is to find a 250 gal chemical storage tank that seems to b fairly common in my area and set it outside with a feed line running through the wall and up to the table. A simple submersible well pump should do the trick of moving the water back and forth in a timely manner.

Any one see a flaw in this plan? or a better way to construct a air bladder style water table? I really like the design plain ol bill used but, I didn't purchase enough material to complete a similar design.

[Pro-Fab]

The inner box which is inverted is fixed in position, and doesn't move. When you add water, it will fill close to the top. When you open the air valve, it pushes the water out and up the sides which are only an inch away from the walls of the main tank.Because of the large volume of water inside the inverted tank, and the small distance between the two walls, you can flood the tank very quickly. By releasing the air pressure and lowering the water below the top of the inverted box that your slats would be sitting on, you only have a 1" wide or less moat of water that would be exposed to evaporation. I have deflectors over this gap to prevent small pieces from falling down between the two, and this probably helps as well. We are in an extremely dry area, and as long as the water level is lowered when the table is not being used, we get very little evaporation. A lot more water is evaporated during the cutting of heavier plate than when the table is sitting idle. I hope this gives you a better idea of how the system works. The only mechanical components are the two valves, and of course a decent air compressor, which I assume you already have in place.

[Txchevy]

Ah that makes much more sense. Hmm.. I could see that being a very possible solution. I still have a question. Do you apply air to the inside of the inverted box thus pushing its water volume out and up the sides? If this is true then that would mean that the inverted box would need a vent for lack of a better word to allow the water to flow between the two areas. I would guess that by keeping the 2 boxed seal from each other with a valve in between is how it would be possible to control the water level?

And yes a large compressor isn't an issue. I have a 120gal speedaire with a refrigerated dryer inline.

Heres a quick solidworks model I threw together. Am I on the right track?



Thanks for the help.

[Pro-Fab]

I think you get my drift regarding the two tanks. The inner tank which is open on the bottom should be about 1" off of the floor of the main tank. The air inlet is on the most convenient corner (home position) on the top of the air bladder (inner tank). By opening the air valve the water is displaced very quickly. By closing the valve the water level will remain constant, assuming that you have no leaks. To lower the water level, simply open the 2" valve ( actually thelarger the better) to let the air escape, and the water will rush back in. When the large valve is left open, the water inside and outside will be at the same level. The larger the air supply line, the quicker it will build up pressure and force the water out and up. Also the less space between the two tanks, the quicker it will rise. The weight of the water will force the air out when you open the exhaust valve, but because there is a lot less pressure than you have with your air supply, a larger valve is required. When both valves are closed the water level will remain constant. If there isn't enough water in the tanks, air will be forced out when you are raising the water level, and will bubble violently around the edges. It probably gets more confusing the more I try to explain it, but it is really a simple and effective system.