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Thread: Angle Iron and Tubing

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    Default Angle Iron and Tubing

    Well, I'm starting this thread to quit jacking Winegars build thread.
    I have been following winegars build almost to the tee in addition to his personal help. For about a month now all I've been lacking are the rails. Since then been learning the software and even bolted the Z axis to a 4x4 to perform some center drills.
    I finally lost patience with a particular manufacturer and distributor while waiting for my aluminum rails ordered May 4th. I spent less than $40 on some angle iron and a 2x2 length of tubing and built my own rails. Now I know the quality will have its limits but I now have a fully functional table to progress on. If I ever receive the aluminum extrusion rails I will decide whether or not the improvements will be worth their installation. I was actually quite pleased how straight I could keep the angle iron and strap metal rails. Posted are the very first cuts I made. The dimensions for 1" entities were right on.
    Gotta go buy some steel now....

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -dsc00375-jpg   -dsc00376-jpg  


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    May not be pretty, but it's certainly more effective than nonexistant PBC parts, eh? Nice job!

    If (or when) I do it again, I'll do a few things differently....but in the end the PBC parts are nice, look good, and work pretty well overall.

    Carl


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    Hey, received my gantry rail today from my favorite manufacturer. Weird that it was ONLY the gantry rail I received. Still waiting then...

    On another note, made my first aluminum cuts. WOW, didn't realize how clean and smooth it would be. No discoloration, straight, almost looks like it was a (straight) cut with a hack saw.

    Working on my home/limit switches now. Attaching the switch to the moving axis which means activating by a ramp on each end. Any tips on the Z with TNG? Seems like I have to re-zero Z after each cut and raise it to move the gantry.



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    What post processor are you using in TNG? I use the MP1000....or something similar to that, I can't remember now. It has the correct code for doing the torch touch-off before the cut, as well as raising the Z to the "safe" height between each cut.

    Carl


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    Default Analyze

    Finally received my rails.

    The videos links I'm posting are to my second real cutting.

    Please analyze the shuttering/vibration I'm getting while cutting these fonts. The drawings are shown as zillions of line segments. 16ga steel. The bottom first attempt is slow at 50ipm, .020 cut height with the 220674 shield. Thought the slowing down was helping the shaking but started dropping arcs.
    The second attempt above the first was at 90 IPM (by increasing the feed rates by 150%) feed rate and 40/50 cut height. It actually finished all the cuts but still a lot of jagged edges. I wonder what the cause is because even the outside border I added has the shakes and jagged edges.

    Experts, let me have it! What am I missing?
    [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RfgX-vUhsY"]‪M2U00278‬‏ - YouTube[/nomedia]
    [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9qXU6iJBio"]‪M2U00279‬‏ - YouTube[/nomedia]
    [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXtvL0NrzcE"]‪Start of WoodBros logo - second ever cut on new table‬‏ - YouTube[/nomedia]


    Thx,
    Jerry
    Boise



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    A couple ideas--first, you're cutting pretty slowly for 16ga. Second, you can try increasing the "lookahead" in Mach3 so the computer can "see" farther into the future--or redo the drawings so it's arcs rather than lots of little lines. Third, you need to get a different shield for your torch. The one you're using is for hand cutting, so it's made to drag on the material--it gives you the .06 cut height while dragging, where the machine shield gives the clearance you need. The part number is in the Hypertherm manual.

    With my Powermax 45, I've found the cutting charts in the book to be really close to what is needed--at least a great starting point for amperage/voltage/cut speeds.

    Carl


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    You are using (as Ilean stated) the wrong shield....switch to the mechanized shield and then cut at .06" off the plate just as the Hypertherm manual states. For best cut quality on 16 gauge (no dross, no warpage, smooth edges) the manual says to go 350 inches per minute. Your machine probably is not cabable of that speed....so I would suggest determining the maximum speed that your machine can handle....then reduce the current (amps) to 35 or so....maintain the .06" cut height.

    Jim Colt Hypertherm



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    Thanks guys for the great info. I am waiting for the 220673 shield now.

    My concern is over the jerkyness in the motors. Is that due to the slow speed? At higher speed the jerking seemed worse. Or is it because of the zillions of segments in the fonts? It didn't occur in my small test cuts of one inch circle and squares or the small stars we made.

    Here is a question (and I thought I had changed this), my Y axis master motor is set at step=1361.7 velocity=343.9 acceleration=36.6 for the NEMA 425oz stepper. Does this sound right? My slave motor is not the same at step=2000 velocity 19.9 acceleration=10. I thought I changed that but apparently didn't save it.

    Thanks,
    Jerry
    Boise



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    Oooooohhhhh, so I'm cutting .060 too high using the floating Z axis. And if I set it correct, then the tip will drag the material with that shield. Thanks! Took me a minute.



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    The machine shield is .060" shorter...and is smooth on the face so blowback slag will not stick as easily.

    As far as the motors.....I would work with the motot/drive supplier to tune them to your machine.....obviously any anomalies in the motion will show up in the cut.

    jim



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    Quote Originally Posted by rodder View Post
    Thanks guys for the great info. I am waiting for the 220673 shield now.

    My concern is over the jerkyness in the motors. Is that due to the slow speed? At higher speed the jerking seemed worse. Or is it because of the zillions of segments in the fonts? It didn't occur in my small test cuts of one inch circle and squares or the small stars we made.
    It's mostly due to the many small segments. That's where the lookahead might help you, but cleaning up the drawing will be the biggest change.

    Here is a question (and I thought I had changed this), my Y axis master motor is set at step=1361.7 velocity=343.9 acceleration=36.6 for the NEMA 425oz stepper. Does this sound right? My slave motor is not the same at step=2000 velocity 19.9 acceleration=10. I thought I changed that but apparently didn't save it.

    Thanks,
    Jerry
    Boise
    You'll want to set your slave axis settings the same as your master. It will work most of the time the way you have it, simply because the A is slaved--it's working on the Y axis' settings. If you do a "Ref Y", then each uses it's own settings, and you'll end up with a progressively more crooked gantry.

    Quote Originally Posted by rodder View Post
    Oooooohhhhh, so I'm cutting .060 too high using the floating Z axis. And if I set it correct, then the tip will drag the material with that shield. Thanks! Took me a minute.
    You got it!

    Carl


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    The jerking is most likely caused by the arcs being a zillion short line segments. What program are you using to draw? Some software will turn arcs into that. But as said earlier in the thread, fixing your drawing will help the most.
    Also, there is a setting in sheetcam, under Application options > Drawing import > arc fitting tolerance. Increasing that setting, to my understanding, will smooth the arcs some.
    If you increase it too much, you may get some faceting in your arcs, but with plasma cutting, you will probably not notice much.
    Your motor settings look as though they should work fine, other than the slaved motor not being the same.



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