Induction Motor/VFD Newb Question

[thosj]

I have a Bridgeport clone with a Taiwanese motor that has the label shown in the pic. I ordered a Hitachi SJ200-015 VFD.

What I don't know is how to wire it. The motor is two speed, 2 pole and 4 pole. Which speed is which pole arrangement? 2 Pole 3450 or 4 pole 3450?

What are step pulley Bridgeport users doing, put the belts in highest speed configuration and controlling from there, or some other combination?

Sorry to be so dense, I'm a machinist, not an electrical guy!

[Al_The_Man]

2 pole is 3450rpm & 4 pole is 1750 rpm, you could wire it in 4 pole and run up to 120hz, this will double the 4 pole speed.
Al.

[jimbo7]

The motor nameplate is less informative than normally seen on US made motors, so I am giving verbal interpretation to assist. I hope that is what you were asking.

For 2 pole operation, 3400 RPM, connect leads U1, V1 & W1 together, tape to insulate. Tie the power leads from the VFD to U2, V2 & W2 individually & tape to insulate.

For 4 pole operation, 1700 RPM, keep leads U2, V2 & W2 separate & taped. Tie the power leads from the VFD to U1, V1 & W1 individually & tape to insulate.

[thosj]

Originally Posted by jimbo7 I hope that is what you were asking.

That's exactly what I was asking, along with what Al said. I'll try 4 pole and see how it goes.

I ultimately want to hook this up to the 0-10v output of my SmoothStepper/CNC4PC C23 combo to control it, but I'm a ways from that just yet. I'll control it manually for now and not have to run my RPC!

I may be back when I get to doing it as, like I said, I'm pretty green on the electrical end!

[Cruiser]

Question ?
Would the torque of the 4pole @ 120hz be the same as the 2pole @ 60 hz and conversly would torque @ min hz be any differant between the two wiring methods ?

[thosj]

Does anyone know if the Hitachi cable for extending the SJ200 keypad, ICS-1 or ICS-3, is simply an RJ45 network cable or is it special wired?

If I need a Hitachi cable, where can I get one for something less than Hitachi's online price of $80? I can't find it on driveswarehouse.com where I got the VFD. Anyone know of a source? I ain't payin' $80 as I'll eventually go to 0-10v input, but I'd like to run it from the keypad, remotely, with a STDP switch for forward/reverse until I'm ready for remote control via my BOB/Mach3.

[Al_The_Man]

If you are going to that trouble, why not just run it in the remote mode with a couple of switches and a 5k - 10k pot?
Al.

[thosj]

Well, OK. So a SPDT center off switch for forward/reverse and a 10k OHM pot for speed? Sounds better that $80. I was going with a switch for forward/reverse anyway because it seems you can't do it on the keypad without changing parameters or wiring, so a pot, too, would solve both.

Sorry to sound so ignorant on this electrical stuff, but better safe than smoke something.

Still curious about the cable. It looks like the little adapter behind the keypad is made with bars, straight thru, so I think I'll make a straight thru RJ45 ended cable and see!! What else can it be?

If I did this, I'd have the pot and the display, off the box, up where I want it temporarily 'til I get everything built and control it with the BOB/Mach3. Not "that much trouble" if I have a cable.

[Al_The_Man]

I am not sure you can run both modes at once, at least the VFD's I have come across.
IOW it is either entirely with the Keypad in local mode or with external fwd/rev switches and a pot.
Al.

[thosj]

Just an update here on my VFD findings now that I have it going. Just in case anyone else reads this.

My Hitachi SJ200 can work the RUN command and the SPEED pot separately, one via keypad, one via inputs, or both/either/or.

The $80 remote cable from Hitachi is simply a $4 Cat5 patch cable from Home Depot, works like a charm.

So what I have, temporarily while I get the rest of my control box built and Mach3 running, is a remote switch for forward/reverse, and the little control panel moved up by the machine head where I can read/program and control speed with the little pot. This will work fine for a while. The VFD runs my motor WAY better than the RPC that was running it!

I have my motor set/wired for 4 pole, so 60 Hz gets me around 1800 rpm. I currently have max. set to 80 Hz and it's working fine. I can go to 120 Hz if necessary, and the motor will still be running inside it's originally designed 3450 range. There seems to be pretty fair torque at slow, slow speeds. I can't stop it by hand, no way, at a pretty slow speed. I haven't tried tapping a 5/8-11 or anything, so I don't know for sure!!

[CeeltdNew]

Originally Posted by thosj I have a Bridgeport clone with a Taiwanese motor that has the label shown in the pic. I ordered a Hitachi SJ200-015 VFD. What I don't know is how to wire it. The motor is two speed, 2 pole and 4 pole. Which speed is which pole arrangement? 2 Pole 3450 or 4 pole 3450? What are step pulley Bridgeport users doing, put the belts in highest speed configuration and controlling from there, or some other combination? Sorry to be so dense, I'm a machinist, not an electrical guy!

Hi hope this helps,

U1 joined to V1 joined to W1
with your wires from the VFD
U to U2
V to V2
W to W2
this gives a 2 pole speed.


U2 disconnected
V2 disconected
W2 disconected
with your wires from the VFD
U uo U1
V to V1
W to W1.
this gives a 2 pole speed.

This worked on my Chinese mill.

[arvidj]

Originally Posted by thosj ... The $80 remote cable from Hitachi is simply a $4 Cat5 patch cable from Home Depot, works like a charm....

I will add a little additional information which might help out.

Ethernet cable ends come in two flavors - 'A' and 'B'. The first two wires of an 'A' end are green and the first two wires of a 'B' end are orange.

Ethernet cables come in two styles - straight thru and crossover. A straight thru cable will have the same flavor of end on each end - i.e. an 'A' on both ends or a 'B' on both ends. Thought the 'B' on both ends is most common it really doesn't matter to the electronics. A crossover cable will have an 'A' on one end and a 'B' on the other - i.e. the orange and green wires will trade places.

According the the technote, and based on physical inspection of the small connector that goes between the control panel and the drive that I have, the cable should be a 'straight thru' cable. I have no idea what will happen if you use a crossover cable but I also have no intentions of finding out thru trial and error