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Thread: Hitachi WJ200 Settings Help

  1. #13
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    Al,

    I did set H001 parameter (to 002 I think). At this point I do not know enough to appreciate it but I will leave it for now. Just working with different error codes to set other parameters. I think there are few other things which can be done for motor tuning etc. but I will first concentrate on basic functionality.

    I thought I will be able to control both cw and ccw rotation with m3/m4 but motor rotates on cw direction. Is this normal?

    Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by Al_The_Man View Post
    The auto tune is a good way to get the basic ideal tuning, as long as you have entered the correct pole count and base freq etc.
    If you don't like it you can reset back to the default parameters by using the Reset to default.
    There is free PC software on the Hitachi site for programming and for monitoring while running through the USB port.
    Al.


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    Quote Originally Posted by azam1959 View Post
    I thought I will be able to control both cw and ccw rotation with m3/m4 but motor rotates on cw direction. Is this normal?
    If you've only got the forward wired in, it will only run forward. Using the smart terminals, you need one wire for forward and one for reverse.
    -Andy B.
    http://www.birkonium.com CNC for Luthiers and Industry http://banduramaker.blogspot.com


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    Thanks Andy. At this point I am struggling with E05 error code (electric thermal setting b012. Sure enough parameter was set at 11 and my spindle is rated at 8.6amp. I changed the parameter and waited for half an hour for spindle to cool down without much success. I was also monitoring d02 (I think) and it was showing somewhere b/w 10-13amp after I changed b012 to 8.6. I have two options either wait more to get spindle cool down completely and try again or call the support. Other option may be somebody has similar problem in the past and they can just post how to solve it.

    Thanks for all the help. I am in much better shape compared to morning.

    Quote Originally Posted by BanduraMaker View Post
    If you've only got the forward wired in, it will only run forward. Using the smart terminals, you need one wire for forward and one for reverse.


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    Azam, you have quite a few programming errors now.... if you call factory for help they will tell you to go back to default settings and start over.... here are a few of the problems you have introduced and need to fix. I will go thru past posts:

    A003 = 60 not 300 - YOU were correct. it is the base freq of your motor. ur 300 will starve ur motor so bad it probably will give - ready? E05 overload error.

    A013 =10% is not good for mach3 control; put it back to 0% so mach 3 can control it right.

    A2xx parameters ARE for second motor spec set. since u r not using a second motor parameter set, these have NO meaning to u or ur drive. change if u want practice changing parameters, but that will do nothing good or bad.

    A004 IS the max freq (speed) u want ur motor to go. so if u want, set it to 300: 300/60= 5x base speed. BTW, this is EXTREMELY HIGH. If u know ur mechanics and ur motor can handle this (1800*5= 9000rpm!!) go for it, but I would bet a full case of GOOD beer ur motor and machine cannot handle it. If u do run it this fast, PLEASE do not stand 90 degrees from any rotating shafts, and consider buying a bullet proof vest, and by all means wear safety glasses!

    H001 set to 2. something u really need to do if u decide to run in sensorless vector mode. u set this once to do the tuning then it needs to go back to 0 when done; i do not recall if it turns off afterwards automatically or not. u look. BTW, ARE u running in sensorless vector mode? If not, this setting has no effect. I STRONGLY SUGGEST U NOT RUN IN THIS MODE UNTIL YOU HAVE EVERYTHING ELSE RUNNING PROPERLY FIRST! At this point you have no idea if tuning is the issue or parameter settings. get a good system running in v.hz mode first, THEN go to sensorless. Since you have major issues with settings right now, I see no valid reason to talk about sensorless mode or H001 at this time.

    A044=? what? check out its meaning. default is 0 that is v/hz mode, so unless u changed it, H001 won't effect anything anyway! not till u set it to 3.

    u can control both cw and ccw with M03/M04. you can do it by programming a frw and a rev digital input and provide a 0-10v speed command, all 3 from mach3.

    B012=11? 8.6? units on this parameter are 20-100% of drive rated current..... so if u mean drive is rated 11 amps, and ur motor is rated 8.6, this paratemeter should be set to 8.6/11 *100= 78%. IT IS A SAFETY LIMIT PARAMETER NOT A CONTROL PARAMETER. It has no effect on motor performance. Set it to ur motor amp rating reduction from drive rating to help protect ur motor. so this setting is NOT causing E05.

    u get E05 because ur settings are so far off base. prob that A003. no load, ur 8.6a motor should run at about 3 amps as shown on D002 current display - at any constant speed from 0 to base speed. since u see 10-13a u got something really wrong.

    A082= ur motor rated voltage; did u change this one? most people do NOT need to change it. IF u cannot set it proper for ur motor, see A045 for tweak.

    do these things and ur wj200 should come back to normal life.
    Mike (at) KilroyWasHere (dot) com -- servo/spindle/vfd motors/drives/controls sales/service/repair/retrofit


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    Mike,

    Thanks a bunch. I love this forum, so much information and so many helpful folks.

    I end up calling Hitachi tech support person and he asked me to change A003 from 60 to 300 and things start working fine. This was the only issue I had in my programming when I called him.

    I guess my interpretation of manual was wrong. I actually confirmed with him twice before changing A003. Spindle worked pretty good after this change. My spindle has 300 as base and max frequency so A004 is also 300. I think default value of A082 was 200 and I changed it to 230 (want to be little safe).

    As for H001, not sure what this setting did to me but when things were not working I tried to change it back and you are right it did set itself to zero. You are also right about b012, it did not do anything to motor but tech person asked me to keep this value to 8.5, which is my spindle amp.

    Not sure if I changed A013. I thought I may have to change it based on a message I saw here but motor was working fine and I did have to change it.

    I will take the print out of your message to basement and will make sure that I incorporate your input but I think my motor is working pretty good and I am able to start, stop and change the speed from Mach3. I did run the motor for 20-25 minutes and motor initially warmed up to slightly above the room temp but then stayed at the same temp for rest of the run. I did take motor to 8k rpm, did not have enough time to take it slowly to 18K but one of these days .... I also check the frequency and amp when motor was running and I think max amp was 4.5 and freq was close to 75-80 at 8k rpm.

    Thanks again my friends

    Thanks








    Quote Originally Posted by mike_Kilroy View Post
    Azam, you have quite a few programming errors now.... if you call factory for help they will tell you to go back to default settings and start over.... here are a few of the problems you have introduced and need to fix. I will go thru past posts:

    A003 = 60 not 300 - YOU were correct. it is the base freq of your motor. ur 300 will starve ur motor so bad it probably will give - ready? E05 overload error.

    A013 =10% is not good for mach3 control; put it back to 0% so mach 3 can control it right.

    A2xx parameters ARE for second motor spec set. since u r not using a second motor parameter set, these have NO meaning to u or ur drive. change if u want practice changing parameters, but that will do nothing good or bad.

    A004 IS the max freq (speed) u want ur motor to go. so if u want, set it to 300: 300/60= 5x base speed. BTW, this is EXTREMELY HIGH. If u know ur mechanics and ur motor can handle this (1800*5= 9000rpm!!) go for it, but I would bet a full case of GOOD beer ur motor and machine cannot handle it. If u do run it this fast, PLEASE do not stand 90 degrees from any rotating shafts, and consider buying a bullet proof vest, and by all means wear safety glasses!

    H001 set to 2. something u really need to do if u decide to run in sensorless vector mode. u set this once to do the tuning then it needs to go back to 0 when done; i do not recall if it turns off afterwards automatically or not. u look. BTW, ARE u running in sensorless vector mode? If not, this setting has no effect. I STRONGLY SUGGEST U NOT RUN IN THIS MODE UNTIL YOU HAVE EVERYTHING ELSE RUNNING PROPERLY FIRST! At this point you have no idea if tuning is the issue or parameter settings. get a good system running in v.hz mode first, THEN go to sensorless. Since you have major issues with settings right now, I see no valid reason to talk about sensorless mode or H001 at this time.

    A044=? what? check out its meaning. default is 0 that is v/hz mode, so unless u changed it, H001 won't effect anything anyway! not till u set it to 3.

    u can control both cw and ccw with M03/M04. you can do it by programming a frw and a rev digital input and provide a 0-10v speed command, all 3 from mach3.

    B012=11? 8.6? units on this parameter are 20-100% of drive rated current..... so if u mean drive is rated 11 amps, and ur motor is rated 8.6, this paratemeter should be set to 8.6/11 *100= 78%. IT IS A SAFETY LIMIT PARAMETER NOT A CONTROL PARAMETER. It has no effect on motor performance. Set it to ur motor amp rating reduction from drive rating to help protect ur motor. so this setting is NOT causing E05.

    u get E05 because ur settings are so far off base. prob that A003. no load, ur 8.6a motor should run at about 3 amps as shown on D002 current display - at any constant speed from 0 to base speed. since u see 10-13a u got something really wrong.

    A082= ur motor rated voltage; did u change this one? most people do NOT need to change it. IF u cannot set it proper for ur motor, see A045 for tweak.

    do these things and ur wj200 should come back to normal life.


  • #18
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    wow. thanks for the lesson not to ASSUME - guess I needed that! I assumed you had a normal 60hz 1800rpm 5HP or so motor, not a 18krpm spindle motor. you got me!

    my A003 setting would have been the higher freq and I would not have suggested u were crazy running to 9000rpm - different world my friend!

    I would not bother with H001 or sensorless vector - that is meant for slow speeds not up at 200-300hz. you dont need it there and it prob wouldnt work anyway. leave it v/hz mode.

    good luck.
    Mike (at) KilroyWasHere (dot) com -- servo/spindle/vfd motors/drives/controls sales/service/repair/retrofit


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    Mike,

    I did not give all the info in my original message. I know you were trying to help me. You are very knowledgeable in this area and I will keep coming for more help.

    cheers

    Quote Originally Posted by mike_Kilroy View Post
    wow. thanks for the lesson not to ASSUME - guess I needed that! I assumed you had a normal 60hz 1800rpm 5HP or so motor, not a 18krpm spindle motor. you got me!

    my A003 setting would have been the higher freq and I would not have suggested u were crazy running to 9000rpm - different world my friend!

    I would not bother with H001 or sensorless vector - that is meant for slow speeds not up at 200-300hz. you dont need it there and it prob wouldnt work anyway. leave it v/hz mode.

    good luck.


  • #20
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    I think you might have mixed my post with azam's but...

    Quote Originally Posted by mike_Kilroy View Post
    A003 = 60 not 300 - YOU were correct. it is the base freq of your motor. ur 300 will starve ur motor so bad it probably will give - ready? E05 overload error.
    As Azam wrote, we're talking about a 18000rpm spindle. 300 is right. Setting it for 60 was almost certainly a problem


    A013 =10% is not good for mach3 control; put it back to 0% so mach 3 can control it right.
    On what are you basing this? This setting works perfectly fine with the correct RPM, it simply lops the lowest 1v off of the scale as a buffer zone. i.e. everything below 1v is treated as zero volts....unless I'm missing something.

    I did this because I didn't have a run signal wired into my VFD at first and I didn't want noise to accidentally start my spindle. Now that I do have run wired into my system, I can safely go back to 0% for that setting.
    -Andy B.
    http://www.birkonium.com CNC for Luthiers and Industry http://banduramaker.blogspot.com


  • #21
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    Andy,
    What is the use of run wire? Can you put a picture of your run wiring? I know we are using different BOB but I will ask few more questions after seeing your picture to map it to the BOB I am using.

    Reason I ask .... this afternoon I stopped spindle from Mach3 and spindle did stop. I turn off the switch to my control box and turn off the computer. While I was on my way to take 220V VFD socket out spindle started again at high rpm (not sure it was 8k where I left it last time or some other random rpm). One of the thing in my to do list is to first understand/replicate this situation then stop it happening again. If run wire is to completely bypass the vfd and totally control the system from Mach3, then this may be my solution.

    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by BanduraMaker View Post
    Now that I do have run wired into my system, I can safely go back to 0% for that setting.


  • #22
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    Very interesting. By "run" I mean that I have an output from my G540 wired in to an input on the hitachi to control run/stop. It sounds like you have it wired that way as well.

    My guess is that when you power down your system without powering down the VFD, the "run" control goes to "active" and your control voltage floats high and your spindle starts up.

    I'm patty sure thats it because when I power down my G540, I in fact see the run indicator light up on the front panel of the VFD. Luckily, the G540 is designed so that without power, the control voltage goes low and my spindle doesn't start up.

    Without a schematic, Mach 3 settings and possibly a volt meter to check out exactly what's going on, I can't be of more assistance. A relay or a transistor might be useful to change logic levels if it. Can't be done through settings. I've got a big day at work tomorrow but I'll see if I can figure it out in the evening. It would probably be good if I had mine go to logic "stop" when I power down my g540 to make the setup safer.
    -Andy B.
    http://www.birkonium.com CNC for Luthiers and Industry http://banduramaker.blogspot.com


  • #23
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    check out b088 (=0), i will not make any changes will wait to see if you reach the same decision.
    cheers


    Quote Originally Posted by BanduraMaker View Post
    It would probably be good if I had mine go to logic "stop" when I power down my g540 to make the setup safer.


  • #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BanduraMaker View Post
    On what are you basing this? This setting works perfectly fine with the correct RPM, it simply lops the lowest 1v off of the scale as a buffer zone. i.e. everything below 1v is treated as zero volts....unless I'm missing something.
    Setting this to prevent motion like that is fine method; I wrote that in anticaption further down to recommend setting the analog input to +/-10v input rather than just 0-10v so mach3 could simply output + command for cw and - for ccw. When i got to the ana input comment, I found the wj200 only accepted 0-10v, not +/-10. In our more sophisticated apps where we use the spindle as a C axis also for orient, having any deadband around 0 is a really bad thing, so from the servo mentality I come from, I despise setting a min speed like that. In a simple app like this, it prob is a very good thing to prevent any possible drift, since a small drift in a non separately cooled spindle motor could cause it to overheat if one did not see it drifting and say went to lunch......
    Mike (at) KilroyWasHere (dot) com -- servo/spindle/vfd motors/drives/controls sales/service/repair/retrofit


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