Need Help!- AC Tech SM230S & Baldor M3558T

[Fastest1]

So I have a Baldor 2hp 3 phase motor. It has a total of 9 wires coming out of it. It shows if wiring in 208-240 (low voltage) to make 3 pairs and bundle the remaining 3 wires together (not just randomly but all paired according to the schematic). Now on the VFD's output there are 5 connections, U,V,W, PE- & PE+. I connected the 3 pairs to U,V,W and the bundle of 3 to PE-. I also put a jumper from 1 to 11 & another from 1 to 13A on the VFD's control inputs (these jumpers were to mimic a switch and were tried both before and after powering the VFD up with no difference in results) . I did throw an OF error (Output transistor fault) though I am not sure why. The error claims it could be:

Phase to phase or phase to ground short circuit on the

output; Boost settings are too high; Acceleration rate is too fast; Failed output transistor.
Numbers on the wires coming from the Baldor motor 6 & 9 are underlined correct? Not a line over a number? That is the only wiring problem I can create, if 6 was swapped with 9 or vice versa but I treated them as the numbers were underlined. I am not really sure how to program it. I did go in and set the input voltage (220) and set accel and decel to 20 seconds(no particular reason, might have been a default) What do I need to do to get life from these 2?
Thanks for any help you can give. Here is a link to the VFD's manual http://www.actech.com/documents/techlib/SM01N-e1.pdf and another for the motor Products: AC Motors: M3558T: Baldor Electric Company, a leader in energy efficient electric motors, linear motors and adjustable speed drives industry
Something I am missing?

[Fastest1]

Nobody? Al? I know you are around here somewhere! I should have paid attention in electronics (instead of dropping it) 34 years ago in high school.

[duak]

Hello,

I'm 99 44/100 % sure the 6 & 9 are underlined.

The commoned motor wires (4, 5 & 6) must not be connected to anything except each other. If you are lucky, removing them from PE will allow the drive to work. If not, one or more transistors in the drive module are damaged and you'll have to get the drive repaired or replaced.

If all is well, you'll have to connect the PE of the drive to the case of the motor to act as a safety ground.

Best wishes,

Duane

[mike_Kilroy]

Originally Posted by Fastest1 S.............. 1 Now on the VFD's output there are 5 connections, U,V,W, PE- & PE+. I connected the 3 pairs to U,V,W and the bundle of 3 to PE-. 2 I did throw an OF error (Output transistor fault) though I am not sure why. 3 Numbers on the wires coming from the Baldor motor 6 & 9 are underlined correct? 4 That is the only wiring problem I can create,

I'll take few stabs at it altho I do not work with Actech.

1) PE often means Power Earth or ground, but not if marked + & -! I bet these are dc bus + & - maybe? for optional use maybe? I sure would get the wires off them ASAP!

2) by tying that bundle of wires to one of the PEs you likely blew some output IGBT transistors.

3) yes, underlined to distinghuish between.

4) only the 3 phase wires should come from motor and be hooked to any VFD - other than a ground also.

You need to remove all motor leads from the vfd and power it up and hit run; if it throws that OF short fault again, it is telling you the drive is toast - probably from that PE- hook up. a 2hp vfd costs around $ 350 new so if yours shows output short it is probaby not worth repairing, just buy a new one.

[Fastest1]

I am sorry I left this thread hanging. Yes I did get it running. I had done a few things incorrectly, none of which did anything harmful to my motor or VFD. I did come to find "PE" refers to "protective earth" or essentially a ground. U, V, & W (the 3 phase wires) are connected and PE is connected to the motors chasis. It works fine. Part of my faulting issue was because the jumper between 1 & 11 was connected upon powering up, this causes a fault. This line must be connected after powering up. Now that I basically have it figured out, now its time to rewire the contactors to work off of the original switches. I have seen the schematics and it can and will be done.