So here I am again, continuing on with my build. I have finished the BOB to the point where I need to wait for answers but I will so each component as I went along.
Oh and I use a Goot 45W pencil iron and .71mm rosin cored solder. I find the 45W iron gives good heat for short bursts rather than having to hold the iron on the part for too long while waiting for things to heat up.
First up, the DB25 Parallel connector is soldered on. This will only line up with the pads one way. Mine arrived pushed on to the board but it is simple enough to get it on if you start at one end and slowly fit it to the pads. Heres my end result:
It is recommended that you alternate ends when soldering to allow one end to cool before soldering the tab next door. I actually went from one end to the opposite end on the other side of the board just to be safe.
The next suggested item is the axis cable header but that gets in the way of installing the relay driver so I waited until I find out about that.
So I moved on to the 5V power section; These are all the 5V power related parts:
You start by installing the diode, D6. Just match the striped end to the board and bend the legs to match the hole spacing. This next shot show the diode fitted plus the entire section of the board that the 5V parts utilise:
Up next is U2, the power regulator. This is fitted to the board so the mounting tab is towards the outside of the board:
Capacitors are next starting with C4, thats the big guy in the parts pic. It is suggested the this be fitted to the opposite side of the board and be made to lie down on the board itself, attached with double sided tape or a blob of silicon. Thats what I did making sure the + leg was in the right hole, the "square" one:
From the bottom of the board:
And how it looks from the top:
C5 is next, again making sure the + leg is in the right place:
I fitted R5 the resistor next, it needs to be standing up as the holes are close together and there are other items around it. Simply bend on leg over 180' and fit the two ends into the respective holes:
And then C6, the little yellow ceramic cap goes in next to R5. Now, the instructions on the piclist site make no mention of this little cap. From what I could gleen from the pictures there, it goes in with the lettering facing away from the edge. Looking it up on the web showed no info of + & - legs so I went with the lettering distinction:
I should have fitted the LED next but I want to put that in the panel on my future enclosure so at this stage I have left it off. I am considering fitting a 2 pin header here (if it will fit) to allow me to disconnect the LED from the board if I eve need to take the BOB out for any reason. Having the LED in my panel with show me that the 5V side is working as expected.
So the final piece of the 5V supply regulator is the connectors for the actual power itself:
I then moved down to the limit switch side of the board and fitted the resistor network needed for the switches to function correctly. No pic of that yet, will get one when I fit the limit switch connectors.
The limit switch connectors. As far as I can see from the board traces, there are two possible way to fit these, one is sideways as in the images on the piclist page (on the right of the screen printing) and "forward" with the connections pointing out to the back of the board. This is done by using the hole in the centre of the switch markings (towards the left of the screen printing). Which one is right or preferred?
Tomorrow I will document either fitting more to the BOB or starting a SLAM board.