Welcome to the zone and your new obsession Barry. Getting the mechanics correct is key as the electronics are fairly standard especially if your purchase an assembled kit.
Jason
I have decided that I would like to try to build a cnc router. I know nothing about cnc other than I am amazed to watch these machines work. I have an uncle that owns a large CNC Machine shop with numerous machines and I love to sit and watch them work. I am mechanically skilled and am confident I can build the mechanical structure but when it comes to the electronics I am lost as a goose. I do know a little about electricity as I work at an electric generating plant but I just make it, and never learned how to work with it. I want to build something in the range of 48x36 and would like to be able to work with wood and soft metals. I haven't decided if I want a belt drive or direct drive yet and would like to know your thoughts on which would be best. Also, would this power supply work with these motors? Looking forward to this undertaking and I hope I can count on the experts here when I need help. This is a great board with a welath of knowledge and I enjoy reading and admiring everyones work.
Barry
http://www.candcnc.com/PSC-650.htm
http://www.homeshopcnc.com/page6.html
Welcome to the zone and your new obsession Barry. Getting the mechanics correct is key as the electronics are fairly standard especially if your purchase an assembled kit.
Jason
There is no simple answer to that question. I'd go with a proven design like the JGRO or Joes 2006, plans for both are available here on the site.
Also, everyone always wants to work with "soft" metals, but in reality, all metals are hard, and homebuilt wooden machines are not usually up to the task. It's usually possible if you take very light passes, but it's really not the right machine to work with metals on a regular basis.
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
There's a few different motors there, but generally no. You want to use between 10-20 times the motors rated voltage, and with those motors you'll want to use the parallel rated voltage. The drives you use also have a bearing on the power supply. Also, although that power supply shows the Gecko drives in the picture, they are NOT included with it.
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Thanks for the link to the steppers I love those prices per oz/in. as for plans I like the mechmate or solsylva.com plans for large tables and jgro for sub 36" builds.
I think you can find cheaper power supplies however.
just my .002" worth
Coog
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Power supplies
http://www.kelinginc.net/SwitchingPowerSupply.html
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What size power supply do I need for the 600oz-in motor? They are 1.82v and 7 amp motors. Will the 36v 25 amp supply from camtronics be sufficient? If not does anyone have a suggestion on what size I would need? Coogrrr, I think I am going to follow your design somewhat but use direct drive screws. 1/2 inch 10 2 start acme screws with the dumpster nuts. I ordered the 20mm linear rails from VBX bearings. They arrived today. If I can decide on a power supply to order, I am planning to order all the electronics this week. Then I will just need the steel to make it out of. I will need to make some rail supports for the rails but that shouldn't be a problem. I have a bridgeport mill and a lathe for any machining that needs to be done. If I can successfully complete this project I hope to CNC the mill in the future and also the lathe.
well... At or past 36" i would watch out for the whipping effect of the lead screws Ger21 please advise here. Thats why I go to belts on my machine it is x60" x y40" and I didnt want and whipping. I do wonder if a nice straight acme would do 48" or more????
I can do much better at documenting how mine is built but I would tell you that the smartest way to go is to spend the dough and get the solsylva plans. Then build the belt (large) maching 4th in the book and modify for leadscrew design which shouldnt be hard at all. I would still say that unless you get something that can do more than 2000micro-steps then get some gets or belt drive the leadscrews so you can increase your micro-steps and torque also.
I think that 32v supply would do it as Ger21 says 10 - 20 times the voltage and that would be within that range. 10 = 18v to 20 = 36v. Try to buy a powesupply that has been tested with your drivers and has enough to work on your steppers. I like this link.
http://www.kelinginc.net/SwitchingPowerSupply.html
and I would suggest one KL-150-48 - $39.95 per stepper as they have what your looking for. Ger21???
I need to PM you BSims so I can ask about support rails....
Coog
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To a knew mistress in your life! Its great to have you on the zone and to see another fall into a great love of CNC!
Good luck on your build and let me know what info I can share all the way!
Coog
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Thanks for the support and encouragement coogrr. I have so much to learn and I am looking forward to starting this build.
Barry
and I would suggest one KL-150-48 - $39.95 per stepper as they have what your looking for. Ger21???
Are you saying to use one of these per drive? I plan on going with the gecko 201 drives. These Power supplies say max current 3.2 amps and the motors are 7.0 amps per phase. See, I'm confused already.
Yes I like one power supply per drive per stepper. redundancy is much better.
Ger could you please write a little chart for us?
Power supply
Drive
Stepper
equations?
I got all three parts of my setup from one place matched.
PS =
http://web5.automationdirect.com/adc...r/STP-PWR-3204
drive = http://web5.automationdirect.com/adc...r/STP-DRV-4035
stpper =
http://web5.automationdirect.com/adc.../STP-MTR-34066
And www.xylotex.com matches their power supply to their larger steppers also.
Coog
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