Reply with QuoteAny progress Hugo ? make sure you post some pics as you build it, do you have a log of your first build ?
Russell.
Nice stained glass by the way...
Steel Project
OK friends
After reading and learning for more then 6 month the very basics of the mechanical principals on a router table I end up with my first machine. It is a wood machine inspired in Joes first one. I really had fun making it and help me understand what every body says but I cold not see. I had no experience at all in electronics and good, very good new friends help me put it together and took their time to help me set up MACH3 with my Xylotex 3 axis kit. When I first start building I thought it was going to be a school and I could use it to do a second one ( Joes 2.006) . Now when I am ready for the second one, I decide to use all that time dedicated to read and check every single tread and try to build not a second wood machine, but a steel machine. (no aluminum frame in my area)
I want a very rigid machine, for cutting wood, acrylics and engraving non ferrous metals. (Commercial signs, kitchen cabinets, educational toys etc)
I am designing a machine that can be totally disarmed.
I might have problems with the treaded rod because I can’t buy them in mi country (the acme type) I can only get the regular treaded rod. Any way when I get to that point I should have an answer.
I am planning on using structural tube 4” x 1 ½” for the Y gantry. My linear will be made of double ride of bearings type 638zz that is 5/16 in the inside.
The frame will be tight up by inside 5/16 treaded rods and after everything is aligned correctly I will use single spots off welding just to keep the alignment and that I can take out very easily any time y need to change any part (I don’t want to use sow many bolts and making tread for them)
I know that the Y frame and the X frame I am hoping to use are pretty heavy ( not sure yet but I guess that around 25 Kg sow I need help and advice to know what I am planning to do is viable and what kind of stepper I am going to need for moving that “tank.” to 100IPM
I want to use the motors direct to the rod.
Right know I am posting some general drawings and hope that my project can be of the interest off you people.
I owned the little I know to the efforts of all of you sharing and helping each other and I want to thanks for that.
By the way I am sure you all notice that English is not my native language and imperial my numerical system.
Regards
Hugo Carradini
PD. You can check what I really do at www.vitrales.com.ve
Similar Threads:
Any progress Hugo ? make sure you post some pics as you build it, do you have a log of your first build ?
Russell.
Nice stained glass by the way...
Hi epineh.
Thanks for your contact. I guess i was timid to show progress if nobody had interested in the tread. I made modifications of the original drawings and finish the basic structure. I am happy and it is rigid and heavy, and i was worried that the gantry was to heavy but it rides softly and the weight disappears. Right now I am in a mini vacation but as soon I get back , will be a pleasure to be posting many pictures to show my progress and listen to your commentaries. A have many questions to make and hope you people can help me.
Thank for your commentary about the stained glass
Regards
Hugo Carradini.
Looking forward to seeing the machine also.
Just post the pics Hugo the visitors will come like bees to honey.
Jason
No probs Hugo, look forward to some photo's when you finish your holidays.
Russell.
Hello every body.
I started mi project but did some changes in the original drawings. In the X rails I was going to use two ¾” pipes for each side but I change my mind because the welding that I need to hold the pipe was going to affect the straightness necessary in the rails so I went to rectangular tube that it can be adjusted easily so I had to change the way the gantry is going to run. For this project I had to learn all by my self to weld so that’s the reason some welds might look very poor but they are strong (I hope so, jaja)
I cut the basic frame of the gantry.
The gantry is armed using 5/16 fasteners. That help a lot to square, because it can be tied up when you are satisfied, and can adjust easily when is need it. I am going to ad ¾ angles in the bottom corners of the gantry (not yet in the pictures) to help keep aligned and tight. The Y rail in the gantry will have two bolts on each side to lock the rail to the gantry (not yet in the pictures). Like I said before am using structural tube 4”X 2” X 4/16” . I am posting the first pictures of my second baby and counting with the help and advice you guys can give me.
Thanks .
Hugo Carradini
Hello friends.
Like I said in my last post, I change the way my gantry was going to ride.
I am posting the changes I made. I made angles with bearings easy to adjust and I am going to ad an extra screw to adjust the bearings to the rail. I will be sending pictures when it is done.
I am planning to insert a screw in the angle at the bottom of the gantry when everything is square out , the same at the ends of the Y rails sow it will be very tight.
The other strange piece is my moving Y side that is ready for painting. It clamps over de Y rail un run nicely.
Hope to hear any commentary. I am a strong guy sow you won’t hurt me.
Thanks to all.
Hugo Carradini
Looking good Hugo.
Have you found something to drive it with yet?
Know you were having trouble finding acme threads. Have you concidered belts? Don't know if they would be any easier to find. It depends on the size you are trying to achieve. Car timing belts and the timing gears out of old cars could get you almost a metre of travel if you are really desperate.
Paul
Those welds look as if they will do the job Hugo, pretty good for a self taught beginner!Originally Posted by hugo carradini
I once heard a man describe his as "gorilla welds", his explanation was they are ugly, but strong.
Very ingenious bearing mounts you have created.
Keep up the good work & thanks for sharing your progress.
Yeah, I won't knock your welding either, its amazing what a coat of paint and creative camera angles can disguise later on ... lol
So long as they do the job they are sweet.
Your machine is taking shape, good work, great to see progress happening, keep the photo's coming.
Russell.
Hello friends.
I am posting the solution I am going to use for Y axis.
Next week, will be receiving from McMaster, precision acme rods 5 TPI ½ for Y and Z and ¾ for X .
I was planning to get 3 495 onz/in Nema23, but y have 3- 269 onz/in Nema23 and to keep cost under control , I think I will be using while I keep learning and I can change eventually to bigger motors.
My gantry is going to be 75 Lbs including the Hitachi router
Great job Hugo. I'll be watching this thread with interest. I like the way you made your mounts, definately a possibility for future use.
Do you mind telling me what type of welding your using?
Im just curious because Im doing a course to get my welding qualifications at the moment.
Great looking machine so far. It looks strong. Keep it up.
Hi diarmaid .
I have no idea of welding. I just got a small welding machine , practice for two days with some metal scraps and that is it. I have some theory but definitely , practice makes the difference, so I hope that for my next machine I can show some decent welds. Right now i am concerned in keeping the pieces together, jaja.
Well done! (Or should I say weld done?..)
I like simple ideas that looks good, and it seems you've caught a great idea.
--S
World Wide Interest!
I'll second that!
HugoWell done! (Or should I say weld done?..
--S
Thanks for the photo updates. Keep them coming.
It looks as if you have captured the interest of at least 8 different areas of the world.
Keep up the good work, Hugo!
It is very stimulating your commentaries . This forum help me a lot when i started and i just want to turn something back , if it is possible.
Thanks to all of you guys.
Diarmaid probably wants to know what type of welding process your welding machine is.
Does it have a wire feed for the continuous electrode, with gas shielding or flux cored electrode?
Another common process uses "stick" electrodes each about 35 CM long, with flux coating on the surface.
Thanks Weldtutor .
Now i understand.
I generally use stick electrodes 3/32 for common steel. They are probably little for the thickness of the steel i am using but it looks to mi that they are holding well. Like I said , my welding machine is little .I tried stainless steel electrodes that are easier to burn, but they are almost twice the cost .
Posting Permissions
