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good good. im just setting up my nm145, ill make a thread for that one too.Originally Posted by gleas
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I opened this thread because I think it's needed. There has been a lot of cross fire on the forum about people's experiences with Novakon so maybe it's time to stick to the issues of Problems and Solutions rather than complaining.
So let's keep the subject relative the title of this thread. If you have a problem with your NM-135, state it with as much detail as you can and I'm sure you will get lots of direction, suggestions and hopefully a fix.
No sniping please!
-Greg
"If Necessity is the Mother of Invention, then Who's the Father?"
good good. im just setting up my nm145, ill make a thread for that one too.
you have now had 2 in house made novakon systems, both claimed to be tested, both aparently not doing what they should. i think its time to look outside the controller here. these boards and controls have been proven to work reliably, i have 2 right now and while ive had initial setup errors, the spindle "spins" as it should on both.
if im not mistake, you have one of the first gen 135's. i believe these do not us the on board c11g spindle control, but rather a separate board. i may be wrong though. the old onese were step and direction control, where the new ones use PWM.
have you tested to see if your machines motor driver board works first? take a 9V battery and connect it to the +10v terminals inside the back panel on the machine. these should be outlined in the smithy or harbour frieght KX3 manuals avaialble online (yes it sucks that there was never a good english manual for these from novakon, but lest move past that to a fix).
if the spindle runs with the 9v battery, then you know that there is nothing wrong with the machine side of things.
i gotta run. if you get past this stage, then we can move to the next. if you cant find where to connect the battery ill be back later and look it up.
I too would start at the motor controller that's in the machine. I don't know if mine is the same as yours, but I know mine is the PMW type which controls the spindle rpm with a low voltage variable from 0 to 5 or something like that.
I can't get to the back of my machine right now but when I can, I will take a photo and post it. There's a lot going on back there and it's the Chinese built electrical part of the machine so any number of things could be causing the problem.
Can you take the cover plate off and take a pic of the board inside? That would help with identification.
ihavenofish may be able to tell what you have better than me. Has the motor EVER turned?
-Greg
"If Necessity is the Mother of Invention, then Who's the Father?"
http://www.smithy.com/uploads/Smithy...ual%202008.pdf
page 54.
see the bottom left of the diagram. get your 9v batter and hook the negative to the (4) gnd pin, and the positive to the (5) AVI pin.
the brick should be labeled, and these pins should track back to the parallel controller from the small piggy back spindle drive board.
make sure the main power is on of course, and all the novakon controller cables DISCONNECTED.
if the spindle turns smoothly near full speed with a fresh 9V, then theres nothing wrong with the machine itself. if the spindle does not turn, the motor drive board is either broken or there is a missed connection inside the machine.
Hi All,
Just finished the first major maintenance on my NM-135 and it was interesting to say the least.
I had a considerable amount of slop in the Z axis so we started there. In order to get the back cover off we had to cut the Y an Z motor wires. We could have removed them form the terminals but it would have been a long and risky procedure.
As we were removing the column cover we discovered a massive amount of chips everywhere, including all over the circuitry. It's amazing there hasn't been a short of some sort after two years of machining. The problem with the chips comes from gaps on either side of the cover in front above the head. When blowing off the machine, chips are free to go straight through to the electronics in the back. Still working on a fix for that.
Both Z axis micro switches were busted, so we removed the whole Micky Mouse assembly. At some point I will design a whole new way to mount limits on this machine but for now they are non functional and aren't absolutely necessary.
We found the Z slop problem to be in the head cross member behind the column. Loose bolts. That brought the backlash down to about .003.
The Z ball screw looked fine. No black oil. Fortunately you can get to the Y and Z motors which are both at the bottom of the column. We tried to reduce the .002 backlash in the Y screw but couldn't improve on it. Oh well looks like its time to use backlash comp. Couldn't put in the X ball screw replacement cause it doesn't fit my machine.
For the most part, everything worked OK after putting it back together. We lengthened the motor wires using barrel connectors so we can now remove the cover without major surgery. In retrospect, we should have soldered all the wires cause I'm having a problem with the Y motor losing steps.
-Greg
"If Necessity is the Mother of Invention, then Who's the Father?"
Has anyone had their NM-135 spindle apart? We were going to tighten the bearing spanner nut but it looks like they are quite deep in the spindle. Anybody?
Thanks, -Greg
"If Necessity is the Mother of Invention, then Who's the Father?"
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