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Don't have to be too bright to be me :)
bluehandsvideo on youtube
Don't have to be too bright to be me :)
bluehandsvideo on youtube
Cheers for the vid on measuring, seems it's going to be a little tite.
So if I was to get the pro then the best option would be to drop the floor a few inch, would also make it easier to get it in the garage because it's got 5 inch step.
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I hope you can get it worked out
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Question for you guys. If I take the table off the mill, will I be able to fit everything through a 29" door? I see the stand is 25" width on the website and it looks like everything on the mill including the electrical box is inside that dimension minus the mill table...? thank you
I'm not sure. I'll try to remember to check tomorrow. I'm pretty sure it will. I remember seeing a post by Novakon saying it would fit through a door, but I don't recall the size. It didn't have any trouble fitting through my 9' garage door.
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Yes with the table off you should be able to fit through a 29" doorway. I measure the widest point of the main machine at 23.6".
If you need to take the table off to get through a door, mechanically the easiest approach would be to take the table and saddle together. You will need to unbolt the fixed and floating ends of the Y axis ballscrew and then remove all the bolts for the gib. The table and saddle should be able to be lifted off then. But I am guessing this combination will come in around 250lbs-300lbs. It took 2 grown men to lift the bare table off of my machine and the saddle was a hefty bit of cast iron too.
But something to think about, if you have a 29" doorway and it is wide open on either side (open wider then 29" on both sides of the door), is you might be able to bring the table all the way Y+ (towards operator) and then move the X all the way to one direction or the other. Then Put the table through the doorway and rotate the machine through.
If you take it through in pieces, I think that will work too. I just measured the new stand.....the tray that goes between the stand and the mill is 31.5", but it will unbolt from the stand. The stand is just under 28.5" wide.
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You're more than welcome
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Finally making some progress with the log jam of video.
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It's not terribly difficult to re-load those ballnuts. You'll need to pry out the plastic plugs in each of the ball-races, and make replacements. The replacements can be made from some soft plastic rod - 1/2"" Delrin rod works well. They can be simply cylinders with a ~5/32"W x ~5/32"D slot across one end. Make the cylinder OD large enough to be a press-fit into the holes in the ballnut. Coat the inside of the nut with grease, put the screw through the nut, and feed the balls into the races one at a time, using a pick to push them into the races. Once they're all in, press in one of the new plugs, being sure to align the slot to the threads in the screw so it allows the balls to cross the threads. Then, move on to the next race.
A much better way to remove the screw is to run the table ALL the way to the left, then remove the LH bearing block, putting as little bending stress on the screw as possible. Then remove the spanner nut from the RH end of the screw, and push the table to the right, extracting the screw from the RH bearing. You can then easily remove the RH bearing block, then slide the whole table off. Using loooooong socket-drive Allen wrenches to first disconnect the ballnut from its mount will greatly minimize the chances of bending the screw. The way you did it, I think there's a good chance you've bent the screw.
As for opening up clogged oilways - I've always found compressed air to be the easiest way to do it. Those things always seem to clog up eventually, and taking everything apart is pretty drastic. Absolute worst-case, a grease gun can be used to put serious pressure on the system, and will clear out ANY clog. Then force through light oil, or even solvent, to remove most of the grease, then oil liberally.
Regards,
Ray L.
Just so you know, the white plastic "wipers" on either end of the ball nut are removable. There are 2 very small slotted screws (one on either side of the ball nut). Back these out and then the plastic wiper comes out. This is the same on both ends. Flush the ball nut really good while you are in there and wash the ball screw good. Mine was just full of metal filings and dirt.
I made no mention of removing the wipers - they can stay in place. My reference was to the plastic plugs that are the ball returns for each circuit. It's nearly impossible to re-load the balls without removing those plugs, and once they're removed, they cannot be re-used.
Regards,
Ray L.
Great information guys!!! Thank you!!!! I just might go back and again. I'd like to get it cleaner. I know there was still a lot of debris left in the nut. With the info you've given, I think I can do it with much less grief and risk.
Here's part 2.....the ball screw itself. Still editing pt3.
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Mklotz70. Thanks for all the vids. Very informative . I have a question about the ball screw assembly. I. Can see the table is attached to the ballscrew with a thrust bearing assembly and ball nut is secured to the mill base. Is there any method of backlash pre load adjustment ?. I've got about .002" in the x and .0015 in the y of backlash. I've read about the increased resolution of .0001 using the Smoothstepper but wondering how that will improve accuracy with my given backlash. If the backlash is adjustable, then that's a different story..
Thanks
Matt