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  1. #21
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    Thanks ignatz.

    #1. Where is the spring that helps with the weight of the head?
    - We don’t have one installed. Still gets a respectable 50ipm on Z. Planning on installing one, just haven’t decided which or how.


    #2. I converted my mill to use an air-spring instead of the torsion spring. Will your Z-axis solution allow use of an air spring?
    - Our Z is mounted on the back of the column so it should clear. Send me a pic of your Z install and I can tell you for sure.

    #3. Do you have a picture of a cross section?
    - If you mean a side view. No. My error. Will get some ASAP.

    #4. Do you have video of the converted machine in action?
    - Not yet. That’s high priority but I’m not sure when I can get to it. It isn’t at the top of my list yet.

    #5. Are there mounts for limit switches?
    - No. Too much diversity of limit switches and mounts to provide pre-installed mounts. This was considered during the design. Limit switch mounts can be installed by drilling but it would be easier to just glue a mount on with epoxy. Drilling might require a hammer drill, depending on the location. These units are not painted. The exterior surface color is the cast color. All we do is sand them. So if you want to mount anything to it just rough up the area with some 120 grit and glue it with epoxy. You should only need to spot glue a limit switch mount. It won’t pull off. I would advise using double sided tape for mock up. If for some reason you screw up and don’t want it there you can remove it buy grinding are sanding depending on what you put there. If careful you can finish that spot up with some 220-400 and not even see it. I have seen in a few threads that epoxy would not stick to aluminum. This is not even close to true. Clean it and rough it up with some 120 and it will epoxy glue perfectly. All epoxy needs is some texture to help hold. Most of the small tubes of epoxy are pretty thick so use a little heat to thin it. Never use thinners in epoxy. If you want thinner epoxy, heat it.

    #6. What size are the T-slots? Will my existing hold-down kit work or will I need new T-nuts?
    - The base ships with table risers for installing the T-Slot top of your choice. Having replaceable t-slots was mandatory. This also provides a convenient way of mounting jigs and fixtures. We have aluminum in the pics but you can use steel, stainless or a solid plate if you want. The table is laid out so it leaves a 1/2” slot when 2” material is used. We use 5/8” t-slot nuts. I wanted the ability to align my t-slot groove exactly on X with the head. Mill the sides of the T-Slot material down until it gives a 1/2"+ or 5/8”+ clearance and your slots will be perfectly aligned with the X axis and head. This makes drilling and tapping rods, rails and tubing a lot easier. If you use 1/2” t nuts then just barely mill the edges. If you use 5/8” t nuts then mill the edges for 5/8” clearance. The risers on the table are 3/8” high so you have 3/8" under the t-slot surface.

    #7. Do you have assembly instructions, including how to finish the T-Slots?
    - The bases come fully assembled and aligned. All you have to do is align your column to the base, install Z and add you motors. Our first units will be shipping in about 3 weeks. We will have detailed instructions and parts breakdown by then. Everything on this base is tweak able. All of the mounts and alignments have about 1 mm of extra in them. We also made sure everything could be reached without a pita procedure. Low, easy maintenance was a priority.

    thanks for adding to my FAQ section. Not done yet but ahead of the video. Ha.

    DeWayne Harlow
    http://cncbridges.com/



  2. #22
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    Default mounted how?

    Harlow,

    What kind of bolt pattern is there for securing the base?



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    nine 16. No mounting holes in the current pics. We added 1" recesses on the sides for 3/8” bolts. The actual base dimensions are 20” x 20”. The mounting holes are 19” on X and 16” on Y.

    Harlow
    http://cncbridges.com/



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    Awesome setup. I'm going to be converting my x2 over soon and this looks like a great solution.



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    Harlow,

    The last pic on your “mini mill base” page suggests the ¼-20 inserts might be raised somewhat from the concrete surface; can the t-slot material that I apply rely on the tops of these raised inserts to ensure level?

    What are your thoughts on my skim cutting the top of the t-slot material as a way of making sure the top plane of the t-slot system is parallel to the x-y plane? This way, if the plane defined by the tops of the raised ¼-20 inserts is off, the top plane of the t-slot system won’t be. Squaring the head to the table is different issue, although I would do that both before and after truing the top of the t-slot material.

    What lubricant do you recommend for the rail/glide interface?

    I am wondering how you ensured reasonable parallelism of the Y rails, but I just assume you did.

    How do you recommend drilling holes in the concrete/polymer? I will probably have to use a hand hammer/drill.

    You mentioned using 270 oz.in. motors to obtain the listed ipm’s. Is the size motor you recommend as optimum when using your mini mill base?

    Are there any coolant products or methods you advise against when using you mini mill base?
    -Thanks



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    Nine_16.

    The last pic on your “mini mill base” page suggests the ¼-20 inserts might be raised somewhat from the concrete surface; can the t-slot material that I apply rely on the tops of these raised inserts to ensure level?
    The raised sections of the table for the t-slot material are very close to dead on (+-.004). The units are cast upside down on a 1/8” polypropylene sheet, which is on top of a grade a surface plate. Any discrepancies would be in the varying thickness of the polypro sheet. Measuring the polypro we have found them to stay within .003. The plan was/is to surface the material you add for the t-slots. 1st you square your column to the table. Then add your t-slot material. Then, surface the material if you want. The Y cut area is 8.625” and the t-slot material actually covers to 10” so to get to the front you need a fly cutter or face mill with a 3” diameter. (R8 Shank Fly Cutter w/ 2 ½ “ body). Originally we had 8” for the t-slot depth but added the other 2” for better support.

    What are your thoughts on my skim cutting the top of the t-slot material as a way of making sure the top plane of the t-slot system is parallel to the x-y plane? This way, if the plane defined by the tops of the raised ¼-20 inserts is off, the top plane of the t-slot system won’t be. Squaring the head to the table is different issue, although I would do that both before and after truing the top of the t-slot material.
    Probably is a good idea to surface. We are shipping the units with ½” MDF T-Slot tops that are drilled and installed. These are only so you have something to work off of while prepping what you end up using. After that, toss the MDF. No need to square the column/head after surfacing if it was square before.

    What lubricant do you recommend for the rail/glide interface?
    We use Mobil1 10w30 on almost everything that needs lubing. You get a little more speed with a thinner lube. Have tried everything from graphite axle grease to Johnson’s floor wax. Can’t beat Mobil1.

    I am wondering how you ensured reasonable parallelism of the Y rails, but I just assume you did.
    That was surprisingly easy on both X & Y. The mounting holes are oversized enough (+-1mm) to align them and then tighten. If you do a circle or square test and they are out a little you just loosen and adjust.

    How do you recommend drilling holes in the concrete/polymer? I will probably have to use a hand hammer/drill.
    I would suggest using a power drill. Using a hand hammer/drill would be very difficult to impossible. I’ve been using Bosch 1194VSR for 25+ years. They always get the job done. Very nice drill to own. Mounting plates can be glued on with epoxy. They will not come off. Just clean the area, rough it a little and glue.

    You mentioned using 270 oz.in. motors to obtain the listed ipm’s. Is the size motor you recommend as optimum when using your mini mill base?
    Not really optimum. We need to build and test to a minimum so customers know what to expect with that setup. Bigger and better gets faster. I think optimum would be Gecko’s, 70v ps, 500’s from homeshopcnc and probably 5tpi acme. OK servo guys, don't slam me.

    Are there any coolant products or methods you advise against when using you mini mill base?
    Not really. Some acids will effect it but I don’t know of any lubricant that will.

    thanks,
    Harlow
    http://cncbridges.com/



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    Harlow,

    I just placed an order for your x2 base with x,y and z.

    Looks like it has promise. I will be patient as I "allow 30 days".

    thanks for your responses to my previous inquiries; I'm sure there will be many more, questions, that is.



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    Thanks for the order nine-16. Glad to answer all questions.

    Harlow
    http://cncbridges.com/



  9. #29
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    Default new forum?

    I have ordered mine (several weeks ago- or at least it seems that long!) and if others are impressed with it as I am, we are gonna need a new forum to cover all the interest.
    I was going to build my own this way, but at this price, I can't even buy the materials. I think your big mistake is underestimating the response to this at this price, would hate to see sucess break you.



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    harlow, sir


    what material is this made of? http://cncbridges.com/images/Mini%20Mill%20Z.jpg

    aluminum? are the big structural parts the cast parts, and the black parts anodized alum?



  11. #31
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    BEARINGMAN. Glad your excited. Can tell you’re a real tool guy. I bet your one of these guys that can’t turn his brain off at night.

    I was going to build my own this way, but at this price, I can't even buy the materials.
    The materials delayed introduction for nearly a year. The design is really pretty simple and straightforward but no matter how it was configured we always had too much in materials or too much in labor. I new the answer was polymer concrete so we spent a year getting comfortable with it. We now have about 12 variations of polymer concrete to use in different applications. This base uses 2 of those.

    I think your big mistake is underestimating the response to this at this price,
    I did expect a big response. When designing a product I think the best approach is to determine the market and design to that. The hardest part was achieving the price. I really like spreadsheets. Every part was designed by the cubic inch of material used. Then production for that part has to be established and estimated. We had numbers we were working towards. If one change put us under then we made another change to get us back up. The goal was $450-$500 retail.

    would hate to see success break you.
    If two wives and numerous girl friends haven’t broken me I don’t think this base will.

    later,
    Harlow
    http://cncbridges.com/



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    Vacpress. It's polymer/concrete. We made one change from that photo and that was to change the motor mounting plates to aluminum. That is because aluminum will heatsink the motors and P/C wont. I remember telling a friend of mine I needed to make some of the parts aluminum just for flash. Decided against that. (Sorry guys, Bling does not set well with me)

    Example: On the “Z”. The plate that connects the Head to the movement. That would look really cool. (would “blingy” work here?) in anodized aluminum with our name and logo in it. It would also add to the price and accomplish nothing structurally so what is the point.

    later,
    Harlow
    http://cncbridges.com/



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    Forgive this question if it sounds niave... I am still relatively new to the world of small mills.

    Can your Z axis or the base be adapted to a different head? One with a little more muscle behind it? Or is it just as easy to swap the x2 motor with a stronger one and keep the head?

    Does that make sense?

    Last edited by Brass_Machine; 10-20-2006 at 02:17 PM.


  14. #34
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    Flood. I don’t think it would be practical to adapt a different head. Swapping the motor on the X2 head is done often and would be a lot easier. I am more than satisfied with the X2 head and controller for what it cost.

    I don’t think it’s the lack of power as much as it is the lack of rpm. There are some nice aftermarket belt drives available that kick the rpm up considerably. I will probably try one of those when time permits.

    http://www.stirlingsteele.com/beltdrive.html

    http://www.harrisson.biz/beltkit.htm

    later,
    Harlow
    http://cncbridges.com/



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    What couplers did you use for the motors? Also any chance of a video of it in action?



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    dropride. We use LoveJoy Couplers from McMaster.com Can’t get a link right to them so just do a search for spider couplings. Will have videos soon.

    latter, Harlow



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    Default Spider Couplers

    I haven't been selling power transmission parts for a number of years, but I think you can do MUCH better than Mcmaster on pricing from Applied Industrial Tech, Kaman Industrial, or Motion Industries. Just look in the yellow pages under "power transmission".



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    Looks great, waiting for delivery of my X2 next week, since I'm in Canada have to wait a little more

    If I get this correctly, All I would need to get CNC capability after buying this mill Table, are the Motors and controllers? Like Xylotex kit I'm guessing.

    I'm looking do adapt a router attachement to my X2 to make PCB, would this kit be precise enough do to this?

    Here's a link for the router attachment I'm talking about :

    http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ProductID=2892

    Has someone else has said here, I too would love to see videos of this thing in action.



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    BEARINGMAN, Thanks for the suggestions and reminders. We don’t buy enough spider couplings to worry about a few bucks. I think (2) couplings and (1) spider cost about $9.00. They aren’t supplied with the base. Have used McMaster for years. Extremely happy with their customer service, selection and shipping.

    Harlow
    http://cncbridges.com/



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    Cryoteck. Yes, the Xylotex Kit will work fine. Routing PCBs will not be a problem. Just make sure the column is square to the table, surface your t-slots, and your good to go.

    Videos? As soon as I can.

    Harlow
    http://cncbridges.com/



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